Reply With QuoteNo plunger and no extractor is generally as far as I ever go. Headspace gauges generally have holes in the back of them so the firing pin is'nt an issue.
I'm building a straight 284 on a savage dual port target action. I'm going to be shouldering this barrel instead of using the barrel nut. I'm going to take the action, barrel blank and reamer to my gunsmith and I have stripped the action to eliminate the trigger being in the way during install.
My question in what condition do you typically have your bolt when installing a barrel? (i.e. no plunger, no firing pin, etc.)
No plunger and no extractor is generally as far as I ever go. Headspace gauges generally have holes in the back of them so the firing pin is'nt an issue.
How does that plunger come out?
A small drift pin on the side of the bolt head retains the notched plunger/ejector pin.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Firing pin is below the surface, inside the bolt head when it is cocked. A non issue IMHO. The ejector plunger shouldn't be an issue either. Drop the gauge or piece of brass in the chamber and close the bolt. Adjust the headspace and go from there. I don't bother to use gauges anymore. Leaves too much slop in the chamber. But, ever one of my rigs in a wildcat chamber so I couldn't fire factory ammo even if they made it. The less you move the brass from fired state, the better.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
I left everything in the bolt face when I set headspace for my 284. Dropped in a full length sized case, made sure everything was snugged tight, and then torqued the nut on. Has worked fine with no issues whatsoever.
I headspace on live rounds so I pull the firing pin but that is it.
Headspace on a live round???
What do they call that? Intestinal fortitude?? Maybe doing that OUTSIDE, but still..... Maybe with the firing pin removed.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
I will say I live in the middle of nowhere, keep the rifle pointed in a safe direction and pull the firing pin. Without any of the 3 I wouldn't recommend it. Not having close neighbors may be most important. the only person I'd have to explain an AD to is my wife.
My take is read how others do it and then go with what feels comfortable for you.
If staring with all removed is better that's fine. You can continue to change it as time goes by and you feel you are good with doing so.
That said, I have done a lot of head space work with Mil Surplus rifles before I got the Savages and I know what I am doing.
I don't bother with removing anything. I can tell if the gauge is seated under the extractor claw and I see no issue with the ejector doing anything.
For me I am more than comfortable with leaving all parts in there, I just don't see the need to remove bolt parts.
I don't headspace with lie rounds, an ND will not only upset the neighbors but have the PD visit me!
I'm not head spacing this barrel with a barrel nut, I'm having my smith do this by shouldering the barrel. Its not something I can just re-adjust down the road without a lot of trouble. That is why I was asking so that I can have everything ready to go. I'm putting a 1.25" straight bull on this build hence the shoulder and no barrel nut.
Personally, I've head spaced my barrel nut barrels and never removed the extractor, plunger or firing pin. I use a go guage and a piece of tape..
I appreciate everyone's responses.
Ok, now I am either confused or puzzled and probably both.
Is your gun smith going to be doing the checking? Then its up to him how he goes about it.
Are you checking after he does it? Then that is up to you.
My goal is to be able to hand my action, bolt & barrel blank to my gunsmith ready to be installed. He is responsible for proper headspacing. I'm just trying to have everything ready to go. I will be responsible for putting everything back together on the bolt and action after I get it back from him. Does that make better sense?
Just the ejector plunger/spring have to go. Leave extractor and firing pin in.
With out the extractor the headspace gauges will have to be knocked out with a cleaning rod. Not ideal.
With out the firing pin the bolt head retaining pin can wiggle out a bit. Not ideal.
Perfect.. Thanks...
Not a slam, just an opinion from someone who has been working a very long time , older, cranky and has little patience.
I would hand him the whole thing or just ASK him, nothing I find more annoying than people trying to do my work their way.
I either charge more or won't do it if they want to be helpful.
If I am doing the job then I will do it my way, if you don't want me to do it my way then do it your way or get someone else.
Rant over.
Is there an advantage to doing away with the barrel nut? Just curious. Thanks, Rosewood
No problem RC20... I got thicker skin than most...
I'm doing away with the barrel nut because the barrel I am using is a 1.25" straight bull barrel. The I.D if the barrel nut is less than 1.25" so I just decided to shoulder the barrel. I could have went with a smaller contour and kept the barrel nut but I wanted the heavier barrel.
That makes sense.
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