Reply With QuoteDat ain't no delima! ;-))
And welcome to the Brotherhood! :-)
I took delivery today of a Savage 16 Varminter with a 20 inch fluted barrel from Bud's today. The rifle had a "Cabela's Exclusive" sticker on the butt-stock . . . overstock at Cabela's? Dunno, but the price was sure right: $443 delivered. Here is Bud's listing:
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...SSSYN+20%5c%22
No connection to Bud's here except as a satisfied customer. True confession: I had not checked the specs (or picture) closely enough before purchasing, which is funny, because I certainly viewed the page at Bud's enough times. Still, we see what we want to see. The rifle has a smooth barrel nut and a "bottom" bolt release in front of the trigger guard. Looks like I will finally be able to use the "other end" of the barrel nut wrench sitting in my work-room.
The rifle comes with stainless scope bases that match the receiver installed, which was a nice surprise. The rifle sits in an Accustock w/aluminum bedding block -- which I was not expecting for the price. Also a nice surprise. I had purchased it with the thought of converting it to a .222, but I thought I would take it out today and shoot it stock, just to see how it all came together. I tried to fit a Sinclair F-class bipod to the front stud, but the two did not want to play nicely together. I wound up shooting it off a Bull's Bag supported by a plywood riser to get it to a comfortable height. I was using a Muller 8.5-32x44 scope that has Warne QD rings on it -- just to get it sighted in. Ran out of left adjustment on the scope turrets at 50 yards with Fiocchi 40 grainers. Maxed out and POI was still two inches to the right. Hmmmm. Could be the rings. I will try another scope/ring set up to see what gives. The scope has worked well on a variety of other rifles, though. D&T holes for the scope bases off-axis? Will have to double-check. The trigger is Savage's standard Accutrigger, which I have come to really like. It breaks crisply and trigger pull is on the lower end of what you would expect for a light hunting rifle.
Light was failing and it was getting cold, so I just shot two groups of three shots each with 55 grain Outback ammo. Groupings under an inch at 100 yards! I am sure it will do better with hand-loads. Overall, I am very pleased. Particularly at the price, it is lightweight and very accurate out of the box with factory ammo. Kind of what I have come to expect from Savage's mid-range centerfire rifles. Now the dilemma: how to justify tinkering with a rifle that does well out of the box. . . .
Dat ain't no delima! ;-))
And welcome to the Brotherhood! :-)
Well thanks. Appreciate it. For comparison's sake, the Savage 16's groups are about half the size of my CZ 527 1:12 in .223 right out of the box. It is a tremendous value. I suspect that many folks here already have a rifle chambered in .223 . . . so a rifle would have to be something a little special to get folks off the fence. I think the stainless and black synthetic look good together, too. $443 for a stainless rifle in an aluminum bedding block that shoots this well? Can't be too unhappy about that. Tomorrow I will measure the chamber and see if I can't get some initial handloads down the barrel later in the week.
The other funny part of this was that I assumed that for the price, the stock would be a standard black tupperware affair. Doesn't say anything in the Bud's ad about an Accustock. So what did I do? I went out and bought a laminate stock for a short-action Savage with a blind magazine sight unseen. Got a good deal too. But I wouldn't have done if I had known about the Accustock, which is a really nice, rigid upgrade from standard black plastic. Maybe that will have to become the basis for . . . drumroll . .. a different project. We shall see. Shows though what happens when you "assume" -- your wallet gets lighter.] Any tips on smooth barrel nut removal? Duct tape and a pipe-wrench? Barrel wrench and a dead-blow hammer? I recently replaced a .223 barrel on a Savage 112 (yeah . . long action, .223 -- go figure) and that barrel nut was on tighter than tight. I actually ruined the barrel wrench getting it off (too much dead in my dead-blow), although the barrel came out sweetly once the nut gave up its lock.
300dgrs of heat could have saved You a $30 wrench. It's been suggested on here more times than one can remember. Same goes for the smooth nut and the pipe wrench. Have the slotted nut ready for replacement.
Nice purchase
INFERNO
Yep,
Also, you can't have too many good stocks, you never know what may need to jump into it.
As for the nut, not sure if you have action wrench or the barrel vice.
Either way the first step is to secure one end or the other, get a pipe wrench (12 or 18 inch) and try it. It may come off. 2 out of 3 of mine have, one was a bugger (good news was it was the segmented one and I just used more leverage though still a bugger with something like 22 inches.
If it does not come off easy, go to heat.
If you are nervous about the heat there is a product at Welding Stores called temple stick. Its crayon that melts at very specific temperature.
Get one at 325, gives you just a bit overheat and time to get the pipe wrench on before it cools down too much
The best way to use them is heat, run the temple stick over the surface, heat again, repeat until it leaves a melted trail.
Its very accurate and very obvious, no guessing. Try it on an inert piece of metal to see.
Have at least an NSS nut on the way (segmented only, they don't do none of that smooth stuff!)
Thanks for the advice. I have a barrel vise. However, I think heating the action will not be too difficult. Much appreciated.
I clicked on the Bud's link and the listing clearly states Ac(c)ustock.
looking at Buds website , conflicting information , on barrel length , how long is it really
I will measure to the action and post here...may be tomorrow before I can get to it.
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