Reply With QuoteI have the same handle.
If I reef on it like a gorilla it gets sticky.
If I'm nice to it it's pretty slick.
I try to be nice to it.
So I installed a new glades armory bolt handle and it seems to put too much sideways torque on the bolt causing it to drag or bind up , definitely not free sliding as with the factory handle . Anyone else experiencing this ? Model 10 if it makes a difference. And is there some polishing somewhere that needs to take place to alleviate the hinderance?
I have the same handle.
If I reef on it like a gorilla it gets sticky.
If I'm nice to it it's pretty slick.
I try to be nice to it.
Very Typical. Like stated above, be gentle.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
NO NO NO. Don't be gentle. Slam it like you were reaching for that follow up shot for the trophy ELK that is charging you with blood running out of his nose. I mean really work it with conviction like your life depended on it.
It is always possible that we might have to adjust to a "machine" but that adjusting should be as a last resort and not the initial solution. You bui;d and fit machines to fit and function as you need and not the other way around.
Get a Smithing book on fitting and truing. Preferably, use Prussian Blue to coat your bolt AND the interior of your action. Slide the bolt into battery an couple time, remove the bolt, look for the shiny spots that indicate interfering CONTACT. Use whatever abrasive is most appropriate to getting everything flat in relationship to the sliding surfaces. I start with a fine rat tail file and a single cut small fine flat. After you file on something re-blue that spot and slide the parts together again. I then go to 400 wet and dry and perhaps a dowel to wrap. Finally I get out the lapping paste jars and start with 300 grit and get things down to there and then 500 grit and finally 800 grit. If you are really good and this is the 5th gun of this model you are doing you might get this done in a morning. Worth it? Ever handle a SAKO or Tikka?
There are books and Youtube flicks on doing this stuff and I find it all interesting to read up on and fun to do. You will like the result you get and explaining it to the guys that handle your gun at the range......"How'd you do this?" Still reading and trying stuff at 75.
Good luck.
Done a lot of what Johned says on a Remington action/bolt including jewelers files to chamfer all the edges, and had success. Never tried on a savage because the bolts are so loose. You might try some lubrication before you get crazy. Also you might change your grip to relieve the pressure that is causing the bind.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Robin is right. The looser the fit the more difficult the job because the "feel" is way more vague. The truth is that the looser the fit down the receiver then the more pronounced the rounding of the bolt ears is required to eliminate binding and a heavy oil is required. But when you are using 400 grit lapping compound it is difficult to not remove metal from the correct place. But I never underestimate the ....
Yse the bluing and get an idea of what you need to do and then ponder how to best, and safely, accomplish that. Remember, you are looking for a wide surface to be scraped free of blue which indicates wide are of conflict and a smooth slide.
Have fun and a cheap Savage is a good place to start and a MOSIN is the absolute best as if you can figure that Pup out you will be "good to go" on anything.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks