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Thread: Small shank short action 300wsm barrel?

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    Small shank short action 300wsm barrel?


    Does any manufacture make a small shank short action 300wsm barrel? Or are they only produced in the large shank short action?

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    That's a good question as I'm contemplating a 6.5 or 7mm saum build.

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    You can have them made for a small shank, when you order the barrel you specifically check the small shank box on the order.


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    Since Savage currently only produces large shank in these rounds, is there any kind of pressure issue using a small shank WSM barrel?

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    Yes, there is.... It's not really safety issue, but rather an extraction issue. The smaller shank has less material surrounding the case, allowing it to expand as the case expands. When the pressure drops, the barrel contracts to it's original size while the brass case is stretched past it's elastic limit causing the case head to swell and the result is sticky extraction.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    Okay with that being said, does it apply to factory loaded ammo giving extraction issues as well or is it more prone with hot handloads? Since not all brass is of same hardness etc, can that mitigate the sticking situation? Yes I have a small shank 300 wsm barrel from mcgowan that i never got around to screwing into an action. Hence all the questions.

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    Considering the fact that for a long time Savage used the small shank exclusively (aka only shank) and has only recently moved to the large shank, I would say its irrelevant.

    I don't pretend to know why they moved to large shank, but there are what 50 years or small shank production?

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    Quote Originally Posted by outlawsix View Post
    Okay with that being said, does it apply to factory loaded ammo giving extraction issues as well or is it more prone with hot handloads? Since not all brass is of same hardness etc, can that mitigate the sticking situation? Yes I have a small shank 300 wsm barrel from mcgowan that i never got around to screwing into an action. Hence all the questions.
    Yes, it does apply to factory loads, they are very hot. The operating pressure is higher than a standard non magnum cartridge. The sticky extraction was pretty mild, but still there. If you reloaded the once fired case, it was worse on the second firing because the case head expands almost .002". Savage only made the WSM's and RUM's on standard shanks for for one production run before they changed them over to a large shank. I got the whole long drawn out story from Carl Hildebrandt, former head of engineering about 10 years ago. The large shank was not any new engineering, it just happened to be what they used on the 210 shot guns so the tooling and barrel nuts were already there.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    Quote Originally Posted by outlawsix View Post
    Okay with that being said, does it apply to factory loaded ammo giving extraction issues as well or is it more prone with hot handloads? Since not all brass is of same hardness etc, can that mitigate the sticking situation? Yes I have a small shank 300 wsm barrel from mcgowan that i never got around to screwing into an action. Hence all the questions.
    I would not be surprised if there is no issue. I believe Savage does not polish its chambers, I think that is one of the significant causes of sticky extraction issues.

    McGowan should be well polished as are my XC, Shilen and other barrels I have been able to get a look at the chamber.

    Only Savage seems to wrap the bluing around the end and up into the chamber.

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    Savage polishes chambers with a flexi-hone, in a 20 stroke peck cycle. It's the last step in the chambering process. In the bluing process, it will blue inside and out. All manufacturers do it the same.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    Not trying to argue, that is some great information.

    That said, hone it out and then add blue into the chamber is not my idea of doing it right.

    I had a Sako that the chamber gleamed from end to end. I suspect they save the honing to the last step, not next to last.

    An awful lot of complains on Savage barrels with the FPE thing that in my case went away with chamber clearing and gone complete with after market barrels.

    the area of highest pressure is the base and that's where the blue is. Its a theory and not a fact but also a suspicion if you will.

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    Bluing adds nothing to dimensions or finish. It simply changes the color. The only thing left on the surface is the residual crap that's in the oil they seal it with. That's something that can be taken out with a normal scrubbing, and should be done before a new rifle is fired for the first time.
    For it to be not blue, the bore would have to be plugged, and I don't know of anyone that plugs bores prior to bluing. It is a dangerous thing to do considering the temperature of the hot caustic bath is around 300 degrees, and a plug blowing out would cause a catastrophe. Besides that, it would take up too much time on the production line.

    There is no area of "high pressure", as the pressure is equal throughout the whole chamber.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    The large shank was not any new engineering, it just happened to be what they used on the 210 shot guns so the tooling and barrel nuts were already there
    Ya know Fred I have learned more about Savage rifles from reading your posts over the years than anywhere else. Appreciate it!

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    Again Thank you:

    Still looking at my Savage chambers regardless of the blue, they do not look nearly as smooth, I don't know enough about bluing to know if you can get a poor applicant and created a rougher surface, just that the problems I have had with that are Savage barrels.

    I would like you thoughts on why the metal is thicker at the base of a case than the front? I too would think the pressure is equal, but its way thicker down there and also where it cracks if too much should push back.


    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    Bluing adds nothing to dimensions or finish. It simply changes the color. The only thing left on the surface is the residual crap that's in the oil they seal it with. That's something that can be taken out with a normal scrubbing, and should be done before a new rifle is fired for the first time.
    For it to be not blue, the bore would have to be plugged, and I don't know of anyone that plugs bores prior to bluing. It is a dangerous thing to do considering the temperature of the hot caustic bath is around 300 degrees, and a plug blowing out would cause a catastrophe. Besides that, it would take up too much time on the production line.

    There is no area of "high pressure", as the pressure is equal throughout the whole chamber.

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    The case walls and neck are designed to expand freely and to seal the chamber at the time of firing. This is necessary to prevent gas from leaking back through the action. The case head is designed to resist pressure and expansion, and is necessary to contain a primer without a blow out. Normally .001" case head expansion is considered evidence of high pressure. If you are separating case heads, that is a sign of excessive head gap.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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