Barrel Replacement

Highplains · 10-06-2016, 01:43 PM

Please pardon rather naive questions about a barrel replacement but have never done it before. I have a shot-out Model 12 Savage that I'd like to re-barrel. I know I can do that myself but the problem is I'd like to refit it with a long, heavy target barrel for shooting targets at 500 meters which is as far as you can get at our range. I was all set until I realized that my factory stock, which I'd just as soon keep, probably would not accommodate the larger diameter barrel. Do most folks just buy an aftermarket stock? Are there inexpensive ones that will work for what I want? Can the factory one be hogged out? It's not a wood or composite one. Probably some sort of fiberglass, I suppose. I'm not into fancy and beautiful and frankly could care less how it looks as long as it shoots.

**wbm** · 10-06-2016, 02:07 PM

Do most folks just buy an aftermarket stock? Are there inexpensive ones that will work for what I want? Can the factory one be hogged out? It's not a wood or composite one.

Most folks here probably buy an aftermarket stock.. especially if the original is synthetic.
Boyd's laminate stocks start at about $145 plus shipping. Boyd's also sells stocks for your Savage in a heavy barrel channel model.

If your factory stock is synthetic, you could hog it out but I would not. Looks like crap and is not really suitable for what you want to do. Better to just go ahead and buy a laminate that is for a heavy barrel.

**RC20** · 10-06-2016, 03:37 PM

I agree with the above. I don't think one of the low cost composites is very good anyway and no gain from the work other than you can shoot it.

I think composites are fine for hunting, military , professional bench or long range maybe but I don't like them for looks and for my dry bench target shooting I like the Laminates.

Lots of compliments on the two Laminates I have. Nice thing is they are stable but still get a nice look (stainless barrels, wood color and the blued receiver make a nice appearing combination)

If possible I would try a Thumb Hole. Some like them, some don't, but it gives you a better grip (IMNSHO) for trigger control.

My Boyds is a Savage OEM Boyds (15 years old) so I don't know how they compare to the ones coming out now.

In comparison to the EABCO stock I got, the Boyds fit is far better. Eabco touted as a Pillar stocks, I have had to do a LOT of work to get it to non contact , problem with the front pillar recess being cut too deep in the stock and a shim there and then build up the top again to make up for that subtraction.

Nice stock but you should not being to have to do that kind of work, it should be drop in and clear all parts (even the back of the trigger assembly contacted and it took a bit of sleuthing to find what the problem was.

Boyds does not call theirs Pilar supported, but it does have two metal ferals that I think do that, I checked contact fit and it was even on the wood all the way up to the barrel nut.

I did have to open it up as I put a Bull on it, heavy sand paper does that nicely (and I knew I would, it came with a pencil hunting barrel)

Dito with the EABCO though if I was willing to wait I could have gotten a Bull factory contour.

Next stock will be a Boyds and see how they are these days.

**Robinhood** · 10-06-2016, 03:55 PM

Inexpensive is a relative term. You can find used Choate and H-S Precision stocks all day on the internet forums. Get lucky and fins a Stockade and you will be in business. As for laminates, out of the 5 or so in the safe, the factory Savage BVSS and SSS LVT are my favorite in the lower price range. I really do like the Boyd's walnut on a long action Howa/Weatherby hunting rifle. A thing of beauty if you like Howa's.

If you find a stock and are thinking of putting a bull in it, 1 1/2 wide at the muzzle end and at the top side is a ballbark width. You can channel out to an inch and still have some sides left.

Highplains · 10-06-2016, 04:57 PM

As much as I like the idea of doing this myself, I'm really wondering if it would be more practical just to take and barrel a stock to a gunsmith and have him do it. Once I start adding-up the price of a wrench, vise, gauges. etc., all for a one-time job, do it myself sounds like more trouble than it may be worth. But then again, I don't know how much a 'smith would be either. Been shooting a lot of years but remain a rank amateur.

Thus far, all of your advice has been valuable and I thank you.

Highplains · 10-06-2016, 05:33 PM

As much as I like the idea of doing this myself, I'm really wondering if it would be more practical just to take a barrel and stock to a gunsmith and have him do it. Once I start adding-up the price of a wrench, vise, gauges. etc., all for a one-time job, do it myself sounds like more trouble than it may be worth. But then again, I don't know how much a 'smith would be either. Been shooting a lot of years but remain a rank amateur.

Thus far, all of your advice has been valuable and I thank you.

**Robinhood** · 10-06-2016, 06:29 PM

Ask around. There may be a forum member in your neck of the woods that would not mind helping you out.

**243LPR** · 10-06-2016, 08:51 PM

Right now you think it will be a "one-time job",but once you get one done you're looking for something else to build! You can open up the barrel channel with a piece of 3/4" pvc wrapped with sandpaper,takes a while but works and doesn't look too bad.

**psharon97** · 10-06-2016, 10:54 PM

It really depends on on the price of the stock you want, and what you plan on doing with it. I have a myriad of different stocks and chassis that I shoot with. I can connect with any of them, and do not feel limited by their construction materials. There is another item to discuss which is time to get the stock. As other have said, boyds and choate and a few others are drop ship available. There is no wait time. Other companies like McMillan, Manners, SSS stocks and others will have to built by the company. When I had my LVT stock from SSS made, the time to build the stock was 6 months. That stock is gorgeous and is totally worth the wait.

**RC20** · 10-07-2016, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by Highplains

As much as I like the idea of doing this myself, I'm really wondering if it would be more practical just to take and barrel a stock to a gunsmith and have him do it. Once I start adding-up the price of a wrench, vise, gauges. etc., all for a one-time job, do it myself sounds like more trouble than it may be worth. But then again, I don't know how much a 'smith would be either. Been shooting a lot of years but remain a rank amateur. Thus far, all of your advice has been valuable and I thank you.

I am with you in that regard for the most part. I hate working on bicycle despite 30 years of mechanical work including engine rebuilds (none recently ).

Per above, see if someone in your area in the group. I am sure you are not in Alaska but I would do so if they were.

I just like to go shooting and not get involved in futzing with things.

In this case it seemed straight forward, I had ideas for several setups I wanted, researched it and got the tools and had fun with it. Gunsmith meant time, money, discussion and trying to keep it all clear and then repeat.

The base cost is something around $150 for the tools. I do strongly endorse the NSS action wrench as well as their barrel nut wrench, both have features that work for Savage and is very well done as far as setup and included torque specs for the bolts to hold the action.

You need the nut wrench and I would buy at last the go gauge for the caliber you are working on.

I had to open up the once stock I got with the 111BTH, per the above, dowel of some kind, heavy sand paper and it opened dup just fine.

Ditto with the next stock, though if I had not been in patient, I could have had the bull profiled cut into it at the factory.

Always go with your maximum size barrel you think you might put on, worst case you are bit more free floating and open under the barrel. It might look a tad odd but you can swap around.

Its worked out as I hoped, not so complicated that its a heavy learning curve, actually straight forward with the tech part figured out. Lots of help on the site here.

Of course I was going to be working at least 3chaiss and 6 barrels when done (3 OEM and 3 new) when done. More barrels more it pays for itself of course.

Find a U Tube where they use and action wrench to take one apart and back together.

I don't believe the barrel vice is the way to go, you still need something on the receiver to turn it, if you get the action wrench you just loosen the nut and the barrel comes off.

Highplains · 10-08-2016, 01:02 PM

Before I get too far with this, I decided to take out my old .308 to see how it shot after several years sitting in my safe. Gave me second thoughts when it shot a 1.8 " group (about .572 MOA) at 300 meters. Nothing to have a parade about but maybe I'd better get back to shooting it a little more before I make any final decisions or at least find someone with a borescope for a more critical judgment.

**RC20** · 10-08-2016, 01:13 PM

I would be jumping up and down if I could do consistent .572 MOA at 100!

some days a bit better, most days a bit worse.

Highplains · 10-08-2016, 01:30 PM

The word "consistent", I think, is the key here and it's tough to be consistent at 300 meters with a crosswind and mirage. Maybe this was just luck. Thinking maybe I should go back to the 100 yard range for more research here.

**Steelhead** · 10-08-2016, 04:49 PM

I hogged out my 11 XP trophy hunter stock for a Shilen varmint prefit.
Looked funny but shot well.
A bit overly flexy for bipod use though.

Highplains · 10-09-2016, 12:44 PM

Steelhead: Did you have to rebed the barrel?

**Steelhead** · 10-09-2016, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by Highplains

Steelhead: Did you have to rebed the barrel?

barrel was free floated
Had to make extra room to account for stock flex.

**RC20** · 10-11-2016, 05:19 PM

In answer to you your comments, yes 300 yds can be affected by wind, not as much of course as the 600 and 1000 yd guys but its a factor (100 yards as well but not as much and higher velocity to do so in that shorter distance)

So any fine testing you want to do should be done at 100 in as calm a conditions as you can reasonably get as per your note, removes all variables.

No one I know of is bedding the barrels, Savage free floats them.