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Thread: Do all new scales REALLY suck?

  1. #1
    glockr
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    Do all new scales REALLY suck?


    I want to buy a beam-type scale so I started looking for online reviews. It seems like no matter what the brand, they all have lots of comments along the lines of "I have an XYZ scale from 20 years ago, and the quality of the new ones are nothing like the old ones. Best avoided unless you can find a good used one from 20 or so years ago." For example one brand that used to be metal is now plastic, another brand doesn't center or "settle" as well as the earlier model, etc.

    Are there any current model powder scales around $150 or less that hold center, are repeatable, sensitive, etc? I'm not really interested in an electronic scale.

  2. #2
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    One that is tuned by Scott Parker. Beam scales need to be cared for properly and stored with the beam off the base to maintain accuracy and repeatability.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  3. #3
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    Yep

    China ruined quality. Now we want cheap and disposable

    What I did was buy a vintage ohaus 10-10 on ebay and sent it straight to Scott parker

    Better than any new one

  4. #4
    Basic Member XL105's Avatar
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    Do all new scales REALLY suck?

    Yobuck is a f in idiot
    Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
    Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockr View Post
    Are there any current model powder scales around $150 or less that hold center, are repeatable, sensitive, etc? I'm not really interested in an electronic scale.
    You're best bet, find a new NOS or a used in good condition RCBS 502/Lyman D5/Ohaus D5 ( same scale) and have Scott tune it. You could /should jump on this one before its gone and have Scott tune it.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-502-Rel...wAAOSwI2xX8Z5T I'd' buy it but I already have a D5 and 505 I've tuned.

    For less or the same cost of a new "made somewhere else" scale you'll have a scale which is accurate, repeatable and linear. Scott is a little backed up at the moment but its well worth the wait.

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

  6. #6
    nobody
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    I use my digital scale all the time. I calibrate it about every 10-15 rounds to make sure it is still right. I have never had any problems. it is dead on the money 99.9% of the time.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nobody View Post
    I use my digital scale all the time. I calibrate it about every 10-15 rounds to make sure it is still right. I have never had any problems. it is dead on the money 99.9% of the time.
    I have 3 gempro 250's keep 2 side by side. Weight each charge twice. If they agree I am good to go. Now this is only for precision ammo

    For regular ammo I set up my powder measure and dump charges. Might weigh one every 10 rounds or so.

  8. #8
    nobody
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    Quote Originally Posted by m12lrs View Post
    I have 3 gempro 250's keep 2 side by side. Weight each charge twice. If they agree I am good to go. Now this is only for precision ammo

    For regular ammo I set up my powder measure and dump charges. Might weigh one every 10 rounds or so.
    oh man. now you've made me spend more money. I just ordered a second digital scale to double measure my charges!! thank you for the idea.

  9. #9
    nobody
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    I use my charge master 1500 for everything but pistol loads. I use a Dillon for that. I just single stage load all my rifle rounds. I had to order new .223 dies this morning. it seems my redding competition .223 dies all walked off some time between my last reloading venture. just glad the rest are there. I mean really the .223 dies? it has to be somebody I know!!

  10. #10
    nobody
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    I think I might know who it is now!! my 7.62 x 54r dies are gone also along with the powder for that load!!!

  11. #11
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    I hate people that borrow stuff and don't bring it back.

    time to repossess those items

  12. #12
    nobody
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    and maybe some teeth also!! my fingers are all bent and swollen from being young, tough and stupid. still a time comes when old, tough and crazy as bat **** falls into place. this is one of them times in my book!

  13. #13
    First Shirt
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    I've got an old Lyman balance beam, and an RCBS balance beam, and a Lyman electronic. They are always within 0.10 grain of each other, and since I'm not interested in pushing the envelope when I reload, it's not a big deal to me. The balance beams are 30+ years old, the electronic about 10.

    Not much help, am I?

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    Some use Lee dippers and are perfectly happy

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    I use a gempro 250 also along with a omega powder trickler. Use it for all my loads so I know exactly what I am shooting. Don't trust anything else. My reloads have the smallest fps difference between rounds since doing it this way.
    Savage 10 FCP-SR 308, 300BO PCS

  16. #16
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m12lrs View Post
    Some use Lee dippers and are perfectly happy

    I have seen guys use a dipper and a credit card to make some pretty decent ammunition.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    I just let my pinkie finger nail grow out and use it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I have seen guys use a dipper and a credit card to make some pretty decent ammunition.
    A tea spoon, a trickler, and a scale goes pretty fast when you get the hang of it.
    My scale is an old Redding beam scale I actually gave my father for Christmas in or around 1950.
    Every so often I weigh a bullet, but other than that nothing has been done to it since new.
    I do level it so the pointer is pointed at 0.

  19. #19
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    I've been using an old Webster oil dampened scale that my father purchased back in the 50's, using the "teaspoon" trickling method. The only thing I've done is changed the oil every 50,000 rounds....
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearcatrp View Post
    I use a gempro 250 also along with a omega powder trickler. Use it for all my loads so I know exactly what I am shooting. Don't trust anything else. My reloads have the smallest fps difference between rounds since doing it this way.
    I too have the Omega. Awesome trickier.

    I have a charge master and I can throw a load with my Lee perfect powder measure, weigh on the gem pro and trickle with the Omega faster than the charge master and much more.accurately.

  21. #21
    Basic Member jpx2rk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    One that is tuned by Scott Parker. Beam scales need to be cared for properly and stored with the beam off the base to maintain accuracy and repeatability.
    Why do you need to remove the beam off the base?

    I've tried the gempro 250, it now resides in it's box, too darn fickle for me. I use a RCBS 505 and small Frankfort Armory digital scale, they agree 99% of the time.

  22. #22
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    Gem pro 250... +1

  23. #23
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpx2rk View Post
    Why do you need to remove the beam off the base?
    The pivot for the beam is a sharp edge. Vibrations that are absorbed by the unit from external sources cause it to skid around on the base causing the edge to dull. This causes a precision tool to become less precise. If precise loads are what you are after then a sharp edge is what you want to keep. Take a magnifying glass and good light and look at yours.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  24. #24
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    I just bought a RCBS M500 a couple months ago and am very happy with it. It's all metal and works like a charm. Current U.S. nickels weight EXACTLY 5 grams, which equates to 77.16 grains (77.2gr) and I've verified it's accuracy all the way up to 6 nickels (463.2gr).

    Not much more you can ask from a scale and they're $68.

  25. #25
    Basic Member jpx2rk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    The pivot for the beam is a sharp edge. Vibrations that are absorbed by the unit from external sources cause it to skid around on the base causing the edge to dull. This causes a precision tool to become less precise. If precise loads are what you are after then a sharp edge is what you want to keep. Take a magnifying glass and good light and look at yours.
    What do you consider "external sources"?

    How do you go about sharpening the pivots' edge, and what abrasive to you use or recommend?

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