My apologies to Zilla if he feels that way. He can also comment.
I believe we were discussing FPE.
I offered what is an extremely simple thing to test. I also PMd him explain some of my reasoning.
However I will re-open my original post on the subject and continue it there.
i had the same PE issue on one of my savages, i did not care for the shim method, i removed the rear baffle, drilled a 1/8" dia hole x 1/4" deep in the middle on the bottom side where the cam is, machined a small delrin pin with a .128 dia shank 1/4" lg, with a 1/4" dia head about .050 thick, tap it in the hole and use a file to file off some of the head till you get what you want, i think mine ended up being about .020 thick, to do the test with a shim as someone shown in a video where you put the shim on the cam, try putting the shim under the baffle on the cam side, if you get the proper PE by adding approx .020 to .025 then the pin method will work mine works slick.
Chet
Some smiths will re mill the detail in the rear of the bolt body removing enough to reclaim PE
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I am Thinking [probably PE at the moment. BUT, since I changed bolt handles the problem hasn't returned. Just waiting for it to rear it's ugly head again.. I am going tpo have to put this waaay back on the back burner as I have had a knee replacement surgery..
I am in a holding pattern now waiting for the problem to re-cur..
GL with the surgery, and do the PT, it will help tremendously in the recovery process.
I have had this same proble with 6.5. Acts like a pressure situation but the bolt coming back is the only sign. Full length sized, trimmed. Can’t figure it out
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