Early 99F takedown accuracy question?

[Flintlock28]

As per my other posts....

Soon my self refurbished 1924 Early F model Take down 99 will be complete, and re-assembled. I know for a fact that the forearm channel was tight before I did the refurbishment.

My question is: For best accuracy, should the forearm barrel channel have no, or very little contact with the barrel channel..i.e. free-floated? or is it good for the forearm to apply some upward pressure on the barrel?

I only put one box of shells through this rifle at 100 yards using federal factory loads, and got 1.5 inch groups, before the refurb. Do you guys have any experience with having takedown models have differing accuracy with having the barrel channel free-floated, or leave it the way it is?

thanx

[Old No7]

My question is: For best accuracy, should the forearm barrel channel have no, or very little contact with the barrel channel..i.e. free-floated? or is it good for the forearm to apply some upward pressure on the barrel?

I only put one box of shells through this rifle at 100 yards using federal factory loads, and got 1.5 inch groups, before the refurb. Do you guys have any experience with having takedown models have differing accuracy with having the barrel channel free-floated, or leave it the way it is?
thanx

If it still shoots an honest 1.5" group at 100 yards after the work you do, you could try adding a shim of some type to see what impact that might have, but most hunters would consider 1.5" at 100 pretty dang good.

My 1937 vintage Model F Takedown does almost as well, but I haven't messed with it to try any shims. I can't recall reading any reports of whether to shim or to bed the forearm either, but I'll be watching this post to see the other replies.

Good luck with the work on your F.

Old No7

[Flintlock28]

If it still shoots an honest 1.5" group at 100 yards after the work you do, you could try adding a shim of some type to see what impact that might have, but most hunters would consider 1.5" at 100 pretty dang good.

My 1937 vintage Model F Takedown does almost as well, but I haven't messed with it to try any shims. I can't recall reading any reports of whether to shim or to bed the forearm either, but I'll be watching this post to see the other replies.

Good luck with the work on your F.

Old No7

Thanks.... I'll post photos soon. I also found a mint condition Redfield tang aperture sight I'm putting on. I may make a new front sight since I don't like the stock front bead sight. i'm gonna get some sheet metal, and make a squared-off front sight with nice sharp lines.

[mark r]

Flintlock, I have a 1924 savage mod.99 D takedown also. I also shoot 1 1/2" groups with fed./rem. factory loads. This is normal for take-downs and factory loads. I have a gap of a dollar bill between barrel and forestock and reload my own, now I get 3/4" groups at 100yds.The only thing touching the barrel is the latch of the forestock. Try a shim to see if it gets better or worse, then you will know. Happy shooting

[Flintlock28]

Flintlock, I have a 1924 savage mod.99 D takedown also. I also shoot 1 1/2" groups with fed./rem. factory loads. This is normal for take-downs and factory loads. I have a gap of a dollar bill between barrel and forestock and reload my own, now I get 3/4" groups at 100yds.The only thing touching the barrel is the latch of the forestock. Try a shim to see if it gets better or worse, then you will know. Happy shooting

I'll give it a shot...