Reply With QuoteThese may be integral. I think Mr F, Hottolds or Fred mentioned something about this. It would be rare if so. Can you tell us more about the rifle?
I have a Savage 111, and the two scope bases have no screws on the top to remove them. I can't tell how they are attached. I wanted to put on a 20 moa EGW rail.
I searched the gunsmithing articles, and searched the forum. If this has been addressed before, please direct me. If not, can you help me understand how they are mounted?
These may be integral. I think Mr F, Hottolds or Fred mentioned something about this. It would be rare if so. Can you tell us more about the rifle?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I'm pretty sure the bases are soldered on, and I don't think there is an easy way to remove them. For some reason Savage Arms attached the scope base via solder for a while.
They were soldered on the one I had.
IIRC someone said it was made around '88.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
If they are soldered then I would think heat would soften the solder so that you can remove them.
Then you would have to drill and tap your base screw holes. Got a mill.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If you can not get the rail off you have another option to get the 20moa. Place metal shim(s) between top of rail and bottom of ring mount. Brass sheets in different thicknesses are available at Hobby Lobby or you can cut up a soda can.
Is there a one piece set of rings that will fit?Originally Posted by rbp75503
Otherwise, I'm thinking that with a set two piece rings, with a shim on the back, the rings are no longer parallel, and the internal portion of the rings are no longer concentric--so the higher base and lower base would tweak the scope body? Any simple solution to that?
^ That's a bad idea........
Just use some Burris Zee rings with inserts.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I have a 20moa LaRue Tactical QD mount that I use between a couple of different rifles. They are not cheap, but they are quality and will hold zero.
http://www.larue.com/larue-tactical-...scope-mount-qd
I have also used the shim method under the scope ring\top of rail to add .030" of elevation to the front of a scope to lower point of impact without any issues. It is not recommended to add more than .010" to the bottom ring and scope on a two piece scope ring
Also have done it with the shim. Works fine within its limits
Not knowing what the history or your attachment is to this particular rifle is, I would consider trading it or selling it for a model that is drilled and tapped for what you want to do. If your finances allow keep the one you have as a unique and some what rare model with soldered bases.
I have used shims in a pinch myself but only under the rail on a mild recoiling machine
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If soldered use old the old school way and have the gunsmith remove them and then drill and tap new base holes. Do it right or don't bother, again old school.
Or like Sharpshooter said use Burris zee rings with the proper inserts.
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
Thanks all, I'm going with the tactical Burris Zee rings. All very helpful! It's for a 7mm rem mag.
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Let us know how that works out for you. My attempt of using the Burris rings was a bust.
I decided to go with the larger tactical ones, cause the other ones just looked too wimpy. Hopefully that helps for success. I'll definitely follow up.
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