Reply With QuoteSome creep comes from the need to stone the sear surface and the trigger step. I have fixed at least 2 stock triggers that had terrible creep, by adjusting the travel and stoning the surfaces.
I use .038 and .039 spring wire and they do great
Some creep comes from the need to stone the sear surface and the trigger step. I have fixed at least 2 stock triggers that had terrible creep, by adjusting the travel and stoning the surfaces.
Hobby shops that sell model airplanes and building supplies will have piano wire in all sizes. Also have piano wire bending tools.
Yep. You are excatly correct, but I thought it would be worth a try before spending a hundred bucks or so for a new trigger. I may just chuck that trigger up in my drill press and drill a hole through it right opposite the sear and tap it for a headless screw like the 5 screw triggers have so I can adjust the sear engagement and THEN if I screw that up, I'll just buy a new adjustable trigger. Anyway, many THANKS to all of you guys for the advice and offers of help. This is what makes this forum so good. You boys know your stuff and you share what you know.Quote foxx: A new spring won't fix creep. Creep comes from having too much travel in trigger where the sear and trigger engage.
Might be easier to shim the top of the trigger. There is a thread or article about that somewhere here as well.
Thanks. I found that video here -->> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJij...FWXqg9&index=3
Here is my question about that whole procedure: How hard is the shim stock he is using? If it is not hard, the pressure of the sear on it will wear it fairly quickly. I'm not a gunsmith, but I don't think I want to use that method, although it may work well for some people, and it will work for anyone for however long it will work. I question how long that time will be. I want parts that work against each other to be hard so that they wear slowly, if at all. That way, I only have to do it once in my lifetime.
But as always, thanks for that because I had not seen it before. None of this is a big deal because I got a Savage 110 rifle (flat back) in a trade recently. I never owned a Savage rifle before but have used Savage model 24's since I was 10 and I am now 74, so I've been shooting and hunting with them for awhile now. I'm going to have one or more of those here until I die. I shot the trade rifle ( a 243) and it shot well enough with bullets of 90 grains or below, but it would not stabilize the 100 or 105 grain bullets I have always shot in a 243. So I sent it to E. Aurther Brown and had them install one of their accuracy barrels with a 1 in 8 twist on it. That only took two weeks from start to finish BTW.
The rifle came in the trade with a set of bases and rings on it, but the guy told me that they came from his "parts box" and they may not work. One ring was a different brand than the other, but they were both 1 inch, so I figured I'd just try them anyway. Well those bases were not made for a flat back action, so the scope was cocked in them and they are not going to work. I'm waiting on a new set of bases and rings to get here to install a new Vortex 6 X 18 scope to see if the new Brown & company barrel will shoot. Got a bunch of test loads worked up for it already. The rings and bases should get here about Thursday.
So that gives me time to get that tiny bit of creep out of the trigger. It really isn't bad, but any creep at all is a bother to a real rifleman, so I'm trying to eliminate it. It'sa project to mess with while I'm waiting for hunting season to open. I appreciate you boys help with this cause like I said, I have not owned a Savage before. I've done about a dozen modle 70 Win. triggers, but they are simple and easy to work on.
I performed the shim trigger mod on a Axis and for the shim I used a section of the correct feeler gauge. By the way it cut I assumed that it was plenty hard and would survive the test of time.
^^^^ yeah, it would not have to be very hard. There is almost no pressure applied to it. My guess is a piece of plastic would work for 1,000's or shots and 100's of years. Still, I would and always have) use hard metal for the shim.
I messed with that trigger a little today. Installed a shim which fit fine before the glue but was to thick to stay cocked with the glue so I had to take it out. Then as I was cleaning off the glue, did a little polish on the trigger bearing surface but didn't touch the sear. To my amazement, the creep disappeared. Then I tried to fire it with the safety on and it did fire so I had to adjust the safety. When it held, then I Bump tested it with the safety off and could not make it fire. Then I worked the bolt fast and it held. So now the trigger is between four and five pounds with no creep and that is just where I like triggers to be on hunting rifles. I have never used a trigger lighter than four pounds because that is what the NRA always required on pistol matches and because cold fingers and light triggers don't go together very well. Since I am a hunter and not a target shooter, I am gonna be in the cold.
Thanks to you boys for the guidance you provided on that trigger. It is perfect for how I shoot right now. The scope bases arrived today and Midway sez the rings will arrive tomorrow. Soon as that happens I'll mount and bore sight it and be ready to see if that E. Arthur Brown barrel will shoot. I already have my test loads worked up.
Another way to "shim" one is a little trick I used when I couldn't find a 3 screw available in a timely fashion. First I protect the face of the sear mating surface and build up the desired area with just a little bead from a wire welder, Then slowly file it down testing along the way until you get the desired engagement. Wont ever come loose or slip :)
Works like a champ.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Well with the new 26 inch E-Arthur Brown accuracy barrel installed and the Vortex 6 X 18 X 44 AO scope, this thing came out long and heavy. I have my test loads loaded with 100 grain Sierra SMK BTSP and also some Berger 105 grain BTHP VLD bullets. I'll get to the range Monday and see how all of this shoots.
Again, thanks to you boys for the help on the trigger. It's working fine now. If it shoots worth keeping, I'll install a long bolt handle and a shooting sling and call it done.
My best group so far has been 7/16 th of an inch when loaded with 45 grains of RL-26 under a Berger 105 VLD bullet seated to just kiss the lands. But the trigger was terrible so I decided to try the cure you fellas recommended. Now the trigger is between 3.5 and 4 pounds which is excellent. It had been 6 pounds before the spinner bait fix it.
Original trigger spring
It measures .0630 in diameter. It's pretty stout.
Here is the new spring I cut from a buzz bait and it measures .0510. Various people have recommended a .0490 diameter, but I ain't got onena them in my tackle box, so this'll have to do.
Heavier original spring above and my copy of it below.
Lighter .0510 spring installed and adjusted. Trigger tested for bump off and safety function. Trigger pull weight is now between3.5 and 4 pounds with no creep which is excellent. I am going to load up sum more cartridges this afternoon and go give'm a try with this new trigger. I may getta 3/8 inch group outta that dang Savage yet.
It's still there on page 8 http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ger-Adjustment
Now for a simple adjustment for the pre accutrigger 10/110 models https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeHuejolf6E
Hey SS, You need to tighten down that adjustment screw a little until you put at least a slight arch in that trigger spring you replaced, or you or someone around you is quite likely to have a very very bad day. Not having an arch in it with sufficient tension can keep the trigger from returning to the correct position resulting in really "Sketchy" sear to trigger engagement. That spring not only controls the weight it takes to pull the trigger, it also returns the trigger forward so that when the rifle is cocked the trigger and the boltstop/sear combo fully engage. Best case it may not stay cocked when the bolt is lifted, worst case is it slightly engages just enough to cock but without enough engagement that may slip and result in a negligent discharge and an unintentional hole in whatever the rifle is pointed at.Originally Posted by SavageShooter
My best group so far has been 7/16 th of an inch when loaded with 45 grains of RL-26 under a Berger 105 VLD bullet seated to just kiss the lands. But the trigger was terrible so I decided to try the cure you fellas recommended. Now the trigger is between 3.5 and 4 pounds which is excellent. It had been 6 pounds before the spinner bait fix it.
Original trigger spring
It measures .0630 in diameter. It's pretty stout.
Here is the new spring I cut from a buzz bait and it measures .0510. Various people have recommended a .0490 diameter, but I ain't got onena them in my tackle box, so this'll have to do.
Heavier original spring above and my copy of it below.
Lighter .0510 spring installed and adjusted. Trigger tested for bump off and safety function. Trigger pull weight is now between3.5 and 4 pounds with no creep which is excellent. I am going to load up sum more cartridges this afternoon and go give'm a try with this new trigger. I may getta 3/8 inch group outta that dang Savage yet.
Just a cautionary word of advice, and this time it's worth far more than what you paid to read it.
Also be sure the spring is engaged in one of the adjustment screw cutouts. That's what they are there for and it's not by accident.
Good luck and stay safe.
Last edited by big honkin jeep; 10-14-2016 at 01:32 PM.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
That video is useless. It's supposed to show you how to "tune" your pre-Accutrigger but all the guy shows you is how to increase your trigger pull weight an he doesn't even know the correct terminology! He leaves out any mention of the sear engagement screw adjustment or the over travel adjustment; let alone adjustments to the safety!
I'm trying to figure out how to adjust mine but the online research I've done has already shown how inadequate and potentially dangerous this video can be.
Here's an authoritative article on adjusting the pre-Acutrigger trigger: http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/s...10trigger.html
I'm still looking for a quality video instruction because I have an easier time learning from watching a video.
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I use SSS triggers and have a 3 screw Savage trigger that I worked on. With any Savage trigger work be aware: THE SAFE DOES NOT BLOCK THE FIRING PIN OR DISCONNECT THE SEAR, it is only a mechanical device that blocks the trigger. ALWAYS CHECK FOR "BUMP OFF" and include checking by pulling trigger with safe ON and then pushing the safe OFF. That is where the Rem 700's had a problem.
"KEEP IT POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION, WHEN IT GOES OFF ACCIDENTALLY(and sometime it will) NOBODY GETS HURT"
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