I finally broke down and got a RR Arms A4 varmint rifle heavy barrel 20". Been very pleased.
However, want to keep stock and change to shorter lighter barrel and forearm without switching entire upper. I am brand new to these rifles and my gunsmith is out of business due to a serious illness, he's barely able to use his phone this summer.
Can it be easily re-barreled? That cost from factory for parts is $400. Probably harder than my savage rifles switch.
Hate to take a washing on a trade and it's been shot less than 500 times in .223/5.6 8 twist. The factory is pushing a full upper change. Because the RR Arms upper is $700 might as well trade it for that price?
AR uppers are cheaper to replace if you want to change that many parts out. I'd consider selling and replacing. Check out Palmetto State Armory (PSA) or DPMS. I currently have a RRA lower w their excellent 2 stage trigger and a lightweight DPMS upper. Shoots 1 inch groups with my hand loads and 2 inch groups w cheap ammo. Cheapest way to swap is to buy a complete AR and swap parts, sell the remaining gun from the parts you don't want.
$700 RRA upper is the price of a locally built complete rifle. Don't need two guns. Going to keep the upper as it shoots to 400 yrs with cheap ammo good groups.
Like the RRA and will use their parts, understand these parts are inter-changeable brand to brand. Only three parts to change, barrel, forearm and gas block at $400.
RRA makes good stuff, as do many other folks. A good trigger such as the RRA 2stage, good barrel and a free float hand guard are the secret to AR accuracy.
The lightweight uppers are often as accurate as the heavy upper when you free float.
Swapping an entire uppper as I now understand is your intent is a great idea. You can have a varmint rifle when you want and a light sporter when you want.
Have a good one.
Keith
You're not going to do a switch-barrel on an AR like you are a Savage as it's more work than it's worth - especially given the minimal cost difference to have a complete separate upper assembly to swap out with the push of two pins.
The biggest cost difference between upper assemblies is the handguard used. You can buy off-the-shelf complete 16" uppers with the standard handguards for $400-450 from a number of quality manufacturers all day long (DPMS, AR-Stoner, Del-Ton, etc). You can't build one from new parts for that - at least I haven't figured out how to yet. If you want a free-float handguard with M-Lok or picatinney rails all over it you're going to be looking at $600+ for a complete upper assembly.
Figured the barrel change would be too much trouble. Got the free float hand guard (although too long and heavy), and mounting rail on this set up so can use the rail on a shorter barrel. Yesterday lucked out and found someone local that puts these together with RRA parts and others...cheaper than what the factory priced. I do like the trigger.
"Cheap" 55gr ammo American Eagle, it's shooting 6" cards at 350 yards, so figured a good load would really improve.
Good to have my friend and GS back to work a few days, he's had a rough time with health. He has a direct rep to Palmetto Arms and recommended what was needed. And the price is right, says the mid-length upper will do what's needed. The lower weighs almost nothing and why the 20" varmint barrel feels unbalanced. Learning as I go, thanks for the tips.
Love small town/rural life, always surprised who you meet and what they know!
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