I'm guilty of usually trying the quick and easy fix and often times the shortcut turns out to be an unwise decision. And, as often as not, the "right" way is quicker and cheaper in the long run. I'm ashamed to say that at my advanced age, I never seem to learn this lesson................ sigh.
The front screw on many actions is a problem because the action is less thick in that area and the barrel threads lurk at the bottom of the threaded hole. Therefore the forward screw hole is easy to damage.
I think everyone with a Savage should have a barrel nut wrench and a go gauge plus a barrel vise, either purchased or home-made for a few bucks. Then, when faced with a situation like this, you can remove the barrel, clean up the hole properly with an ordinary tap, and quickly reinstall the barrel. This not only offers the best chance to restore the partially damaged threads but it also avoids damaging the threads on the barrel. In addition, it may even be quicker than chasing down a bottoming tap etc. etc. etc.
That is my advice on how to do it "the right way". Now if I would only take my own advice once in a while my life would be happier.
Moz, my father (RIP Pop) used to say its best to check for water in the pool before going off the high board. As a result I tend to check things before just slapping stuff together, mount screw lengths being one of them using a version of an old time carpenter's depth gauge.Originally Posted by Mozella
The mount is set on the receiver or barrel, the 'pin' released until it bottoms out then the mount screw (s) compared to it's protrusion.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Cool tool! I could see that having the right threads and an easy way to finger turn the threads to check them.
Mozella: Like you, I have learned my lesson many times, I am better at it but in the case of threads were fine and assuming they still were (4 barrel changes) .... Road to hell and all that.
As I said, truth is relative (I just got done reading the book on the Lady (Maria Tharp) who discovered the mechanism driving continental drift, talk about getting tarred feathered and run out of town!)
If I did something right it was research the barrel removal thoroughly, to my mind the best solution was the action wrench vs the barrel wrench. It seemed like it worked better, either one is good but after watching people horse down barrel wrench to immense toques my take was, uh action wrench (just discussing and not condemning)
that said what I also missed was how thin the area is depth wise. Back of the receiver there is thick
But again, cognizant enough when it started going wrong I got the tap, when that did not work realized why and just pulled the barrel and fixed the threads just fine.
Good to have that goofy thread size and pitch tap for cleaning out in the future.
One guy I know uses a small finish with an O ring. The O ring bottoms out on the screw shoulder of the mount, the head of the nail on the threads. It isn't as fancy as my gadget but it gets the job done.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
RC20: Glad I could help in some small way.
I've learned many lessons the hard way as well, some of them many times over. LOL
Sometimes taking a few extra steps to do something right seems like it takes longer than the shortcut but the few extra steps usually take less time the first time vs the short cut AND then doing the few extra steps after the shortcut. LOL
Yep. My motto is I have never regretted doing things right, I have often regretted doing them wrong.
so good topic, good things for all be it how to go about it or we need to pay close attention.
I will pre test the screws before hand. Mount goes on after the screws are confirmed to work correctly.
Sorry for resurrecting this thread as I have the very same issue. I have a savage 10TR with the first 2 threads on the front screw hole worn.
I would just like to ask which 6-48 taps to use, will it the a taper or a plug tap? As I would not need to chase/clean the screw threads below it, just the first 2 on top. I already have new 6-48 screws with torx drive.
If the barrel is in the action, then I believe the taper tap will not work, even for the first thread, because the tap bottoms out on the barrel. That is why the suggestion that everyone should have tools to remove the barrel (and chase the entire threads) shows up in the post thread.
Good luck.
I see. But I was looking at midway's plug tap (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/736...ap-6-48-thread), it has a not so aggressive taper and still could be used as a starter even before it touches the barrel threads. I'm just unsure if this would really work.
The taps are fairly inexpensive, I would get a variety of them (I did) and you will have them the next time you need them. They take up very little space. I would try the "bottom" tap as it may have the clearance you need.
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