Reply With QuoteI think Dr. thunder posted about this , do a search it will come up
I bought my first AXIS today. It's been sitting in a local shop all summer and I needed something to tinker with so now I have something. $299.00 plus tax but I got the $30.00 rebate to mail in so total will be just under $300.00.
I took the trigger off and changed the spring for a much lighter one. Not surprised that there was very little change. I can take the spring completely out and the trigger is still a lot harder to pull than I like because of the sear/trigger engagement. My thinking now is to glue a shim on the top side of the trigger under the sear to reduce the engagement area. I sure some of you have done this so I'm curious about how well it worked.
Hank
I think Dr. thunder posted about this , do a search it will come up
Thanks. I'll try to find it. It seems like a logical thing to do.Originally Posted by drybean
Hank
A whole ton of info here on how to easily fix the axis trigger, lighten pull and eliminate over travel, and fix trigger wobble, and VIDS on YouTube. And it really works.
Found more info than I hoped for so I've been reading and tinkering with the trigger. Found a washer to take out some side play. Put a couple different shims on the trigger and looks like .012" is the right one. Pull is 2.5 lbs. and the safety works. A .013" gets it to 1.5 lbs. but it's not safe. I glue them in place with Super Glue until I find the one that works then make them more permanent with JB. I changed the trigger spring for a lighter one but left it a tad longer than the original. Done that a bunch when doing CZ rimfire triggers so it should do OK on this centerfire. I've got to get a 10-24 screw for over travel and that will do it for the trigger for now. Hoping to get to the range Monday and keeping my fingers crossed about the accuracy.
Hank
I went with custom spring, screw to remove over travel, and filing to remove creep instead of the shim method. Got a hair trigger, never bump fires(because of my trigger work at least, more to that story haha) and has thousands of rounds through it.
As for the bump fire story... turns out the wood screw on the rear of my trigger guard in my boyds stock was just long enough to hit the rear of the trigger. May potentially be because of the extra 1/8th of an inch of screw poking out that I used to remove take up... I shortened the wood screw 1/4 of an inch and no more issues.... Keep that in mind when you are installing your 10-24 screw, and watch carefully to make sure this doesnt happen to you.
If you lift your bolt handle and hold your trigger between your fingers as you tighten the rear trigger gaurd screw you will feel it if it makes contact.
Here's my video.
I did try using super glue for a shim on one of my CZ-452s. It held for a few years but eventually fell off. As predicted, it left me with a perfectly safe but creepy trigger.
Trigger is finished. I used JB Weld on the .013" shim after I removed the super glue, and after lightly stoning to clean up the shim and trigger surface I have a crisp 26-28 oz. pull with just a fraction of overtravel. Not sure why the shim with JB turned out lighter than the shim with super glue for testing but glad it did. I've bumped the rifle butt on the floor, hit the butt with a rubber hammer hard, slammed the bolt closed hard as I can and it will not go off. the safety works as it should. I can pull the trigger hard with the safety on and when I take it off the trigger stays set. If there are more tests I should try please let me know.
I do appreciate all of the advice and information from you folks.......
Hank
The joint thickness of JB is, I believe, greater than that of most super glues. That means less sear engagement, which, in some of my experiments, led to lighter triggers.
The bolt slam is the test that always seems to be the hardest to pass. Jolts to the bottom of the action are also pretty tricky.
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