Reply With QuotePolish the cocking pin polish every surface the cocking pin touches with the exception being the sear.
i am going to install the home built bearing in the 38 case to ease the bolt lift, question i have is can i just install it and reassemble, after i looked at it i am curious, don't i have to make a washer the thickness that the part i am going to install behind the bolt, so i don't compress the spring any further over stock set up
Chet
Polish the cocking pin polish every surface the cocking pin touches with the exception being the sear.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
You have the right idea. Thickness doesn't need to be exact, but get close.Originally Posted by chetc
When polishing, disassemble the firing pin and pay particular attention to the area of transition from rear threaded area to smooth area with flat machined into the pin. This area is often very rough, and there is a sharp edge on the last thread that the rear spring washer can hang up on when cocking or firing. You'll want to round and smooth that edge and any roughness on the machined flat.
When assembling, try to get the rear spring washer centered so that the flat in the washer is not cocked against the pin body. Then slide the cocking sleeve onto the pin and check for any roughness by putting the firing pin assembly on a flat surface with pin tip upwards. Put a proper size punch into the cocking pin hole and push down compressing the spring. If you notice any roughness, take it apart and polish until it operates smoothly.
As Robinhood wrote, polish everything, especially the cocking ramp.
hi Texas 10
you guys are really helpful on this topic, i jast got back from the shop, i made an .090 thick washer for the bolt that secures the bolt handle, since i added the bearing for the bolt lift which was .080 thick with the case. works nice now probably as good as i am going to get it, the 6br and my 6.5x284 are a bit smoother.
chet
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