What markings and why would you do that? (what marks does it need?)
Curious,
Has anyone marked their barrels with a dremall tool ?
If so, how were the results ?
Thanks in advance.
Let him grow, Shoot a doe !
What markings and why would you do that? (what marks does it need?)
You want an electric engraver. They make pneumatic ones also for $$$.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If you're just wanting to mark cartridge / twist rate on the side or breech you can get a 36pc. 1/4" letter/number stamp set from Harbor Freight for $15.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
I have but only at the chamber end. My work looks really sloppy.
A&B barrels are stamped on the end of the barrel, so you have to know that, to know what the caliber is, I know, but my kids do not, and when they get them, hopefully in 50+ years, they will too.
Stamps ? I have not had good luck with them on flat surfaces, let a lone a round barel, so I am hesitant to use them.
I know how you feel, I am no artist either, and I sure wish I had a little more of it in me when it comes to fine detail.
Thanks to all.
Let him grow, Shoot a doe !
A Trophy shop should be able to engrave your Barrel
Thought about a jewlery store, probably should ask before one takes it in huh ?
Let him grow, Shoot a doe !
$16 At Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-290-01.../dp/B0000302YN
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
How about a small label that says caliber marked on muzzle. Or just train your kids on what to look for?
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ya the engraver road sounds good, like the laser marking on socket tools ,,,,, and scope turrets,,,,, they etch things with abrasive blasters also,,,, is there acid etching ?
You guys are trying to make this WAY TOO DIFFICULT.
All you need is a good bench vise with padded jaws, a good 16 or 24oz. ball peen hammer and the above mentioned 1/4" punch set. Clamp your rifle in the vise good and tight, then using the top of your stocks barrel channel as a guide line to keep everything level you can use the punches to mark the barrel just forward of the nut. No need to smack the living crap out of it to get a good mark, just a good solid and square tap will do the trick.
The barrel makers use the exact same method to mark the breech end of the barrel with caliber and twist rate when it's a blank.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
I am leery of stamping with a hammer on the side of a barrel it may be negligible but the metal gets moved, and where it goes can cause a couple of things. One it may transfer to the bore and two it can induce strain causing a barrel to distort length wise moving the muzzle away from the side you stamped. I could be full of bull but I have seen these results in a precision metal finishing shop, using an indicator for the distortion part and a Sunnen ID hone and bore scope on the bore.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I've seen those arguments mentioned before, and while I'm sure they're valid to some degree I've never worried too much about it or experienced any ill effects from doing it on the few barrels that I have done. Typically the breech end stamp is sufficient for my needs, but on the rare occasion that I refinish or turn down a barrel removing the previous engraving or stamping and I forget to stamp the breech before I install it I'll just stamp the side as outlined above.
Best solution by far (if you want it to look nice) is a jeweler's pantograph or laser etching which typically means paying someone to do it.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
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