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Thread: stevens model 200 questions

  1. #1
    tktnt3862
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    stevens model 200 questions


    Hi all,
    2 questions for the model 200 30-06. I have the stevens model and want to know if I can replace existing trigger with the savage accu-trigger? also is the trigger system on my model adjustable? I have read some posts about the 3 screw trigger being adjustable.

    question2: my 54 year old shoulder is tired of the bone rattling recoil with this rifle, it's hard to hold a tight shot grouping after 4 -5 rounds. Yes it's operator error or operator flinching. I will be starting with the recoil pad first, stock is hard rubber. I'm looking at limbsaver, anybody have experience with them? or the pacmeyer pad (Spelling)

    I've been reading a lot of posts about muzzle brakes, my barrel is not threaded so this will require a good gun smith, I don't really have any experience with anyone in the Northern California area, specifically Grass Valley - Auburn areas. I'll take all the help/experience I can get.
    Thanks,
    Tim

  2. #2
    19rabbit52
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    I put limbsaver on my 12 gauge, 3.5inch Turkey gun. Helped immensely. Should tame a 30-06.

    . /

  3. #3
    bw34
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    I put a limbsaver on an A-bolt .270. I think it made a big difference. Wouldn't think twice about doing it again.

  4. #4
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    Used a Limbsaver also...good product and you will notice a difference. However, with a sporter barrel 30-06 on a Stevens 200 you will still get a lot of muzzle jump. Had a sporterized 1903A3 that I put a brake on....got a Shrewd from Brownells. Made all the difference in shooting that beast.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    You would be better off buying a Timney, Sav I, Sav II or a Sharp Shooter Supply trigger. The Sav II and SSS triggers are still relatively safe at 2lbs and do not need the safety blade of the Accutrigger.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #6
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    Can someone advise to the difference in the safety mechanism from the Stevens 200 trigger to say an accutrigger? I can't remember exactly but I had to use parts from my accutrigger when installing the Sav-2.. I'm not sure those same parts would be available on the Stevens 200 trigger..

  7. #7
    tktnt3862
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    WBM, thanks will look into the 1903A3. Is it a threaded barrel? I don't have any contact with an armorer in my area as I've never had the need for one. I'll be checking locally for references to see where to go. If barrel is threaded then I can bypass the need for a gunsmith.
    Tim

  8. #8
    tktnt3862
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    Thanks All,
    appreciate the information. Will report back after this weekend, will have recoil pad on rifle and put some rounds down range.
    Tim

  9. #9
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    Been too long since I owned an accu-trigger to be 100%, but here is what I recall.
    The channel that your safety slides in is too narrow for the accutrigger safety. So you would have to widen it, or file-down the accu-trigger to make it work.

    Personally, and this will be about the same as the next question you have, the older 3-screw triggers, and one of the 2-screws I had; were WORLDS better triggers than the Crap-U-trigger. They need a bit O adjustment, and in one instance a VERY, VERY, light edge polish to get rid of a burr. The Accu has a VERY shallow hardening on top of the softest metal known to man, so BE CAREFUL about any polishing work on them. They are typically rather creepy also, light weight pull, but creepy. And they like to half-drop when adjusted light.

    For the recoil, this is tough.
    I hate squid-like soft recoil pads, don't need cast iron, but squishy lets the gun get a run towards you. That said, my much smaller brother, hates my 308 because of the kick. Knowing jack about cartridges he bought a 338 WM and put this 3" thick super-soft pad on it. It gets a huge run and scopes the shooter 90% of the time, but he "doesn't mind the recoil".... Go figure.

    A brake will be horribly obnoxious for sound, and all but painful if shot under a metal cover, such as at a range, or in the back of a pickup. They do work stunningly well however. Another option is to put a suppressor, or silencer on it. No they don't silence a rifle, Yes I used the word, Hirum Maxum called them that on his patent application, so for those offended, get over it.
    A suppressor takes a nasty impulse and streches it over a much longer time, so it truly becomes a shove and not a hit; for recoil. They also make shooting much more pleasant as there isn't a horrible blast.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  10. #10
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    WBM, thanks will look into the 1903A3. Is it a threaded barrel?
    No. But your Stevens barrel is approximately the same muzzle diameter as my 1903A3 was. The Shrewd brake I got from Brownells is no longer made. Pity! The problem with putting brakes on smaller muzzle diameter barrels is having enough barrel left, for safety, after threading. You just need to find a good gunsmith that can do it for you.

  11. #11
    GrumpyGuns
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    Have you looked at the Witt Machine clamp on break? No threading required

  12. #12
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    I enjoy shooting larger caliber rifles, and usually bring several big boomers with me. Recent shoulder surgery requires me to be careful of recoil. I use a PAST shoulder pad and it is amazing. No need to outfit each rifle, just the dummy behind the trigger. Father in law loves the one we got him for Xmas, so just something to consider.

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