Reply With QuoteI got a 1/4" drive, inch pound, click type torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $18.00. Works fine for torquing action screws, scope mounts etc. If you want a "good one" and intend to keep it calibrated, you should expect to pay a bit more.
I am looking to get a new inch torque wrench. is a beam type better, what is a good one and where to get it. and also looking for a digital trigger pull gauge
Chet
Last edited by chetc; 06-26-2016 at 02:18 PM.
I got a 1/4" drive, inch pound, click type torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $18.00. Works fine for torquing action screws, scope mounts etc. If you want a "good one" and intend to keep it calibrated, you should expect to pay a bit more.
I have a Wheeler FAT Wrench that I keep in my shooting bag, as it is very convenient to use with my normal driver bits. The claimed precision is, at the low end where most of my torquing is done, less than that of even the cheapest click wrenches. It's also not calibrated, but it seems consistent enough for my needs. Were I super serious about it, I might get a NIST certified wrench or driver. However, I'm happy with the results with the FAT Wrench.
Beam types are superior, and never go out of calibration. Clicker types never stay in calibration because of wear, especially the cheap ones. Spend your money wisely.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I use a Seekonk rigid frame dial type, it has maintained its calibration for the past 10 years. Not cheap, but worth the extra $$ in my opinion.
Wheeler now has a FAT Wrench with Digital read out, thinking of checking them out to replace one of my FAT wrench.
+1 for sharpshooter, I got mine from Modern Bike.com works like a charm.
i have the seekonic and fat wrench,,,,,, depends on how accurate you want to be
Last edited by savgebolt; 07-03-2016 at 11:54 AM.
From what the mechanics are telling me now, the digital type are they best (good digital though)
I have an old snap on 3/8 (half at work). Its an unusual dial type that does not require you releasing the spring when done.
Still going good after 30 years. I don't like beam types, they are not accurate and too easy to knock off (though low use would remove that part)
I will probably get the Wheeler for the small screws and cross test it with the Snap on (a used one would be a good deal)
Only tools I bought from snap on (a couple were given to me) , well worth it.
I do have a 1/4 inch click type for small stuff but its 1/4 and you really need the adapter for all those scope and action screws, the Wheeler better for all but action and even then maybe better, the 1/4 is not option for the low end start of 5 ft lbs on the rear screw (and work up per Benchrest)
I do toque the barrel nut to NSS spec so need the 50 ft lbs capability.
Most if not all screws on a fire arm are torqued in inch pounds not " FOOT POUNDS " so the 1/4" wrench works fine.
I have and use the Wheeler fat wrench it isn't the most accurate but works in a pinch.
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
My cheap, Harbor Freight wrench has a 20 to 200 inch pound range and works very well on scope and action screws.
For barrel nut applications, I have a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. What "adapter" are you referring to, RC?
I don't have quarter hex set, so to use what I have I would need the 1/4 to 3/8 adaptorer.
I needed the 3/8 to half adapro for my 3/8 Torque werench (the 1/2 reside at work and I dont need that ragne for the barrel nut)
If I went with the FATS I would get the digiita, should ber able to claiber to eh 1/4 (good tool, far better than the beam type), You do have to reliever the spring.
Snap on not as its a whole different set mechanism. They did not have it in 1/4 of I would have gotten one at the time.
What about something like this? It looks like a beam-type screwdriver. Such a thing wouldn't be suitable for barrel nuts, but it seems right up the alley for action and scope mounting screws.
IMO
If you are not a serious compitition shooter, ANY working torque wrench, will be better than no torque wrench.
A "free" used one would be fine, we are looking for a consistant "tightness" when you set the screws.
If it is off by 2 or 3 inch pounds from where the setting is suppossed to be, it will still be more accurate, than "your internal" torque wrench.
I bought a used one off e bay that stated it came from a factory where it was used for 40 years, calibrated every 3 months.
I compared it to two others a Snap on, and an older Craftsman, all three were within 2 inch pounds.
I use it, my groups got smaller.
Good luck
Let him grow, Shoot a doe !
Also keep in mind that constancy y of the fastener and its environment are important.
Ie, be sure the threads are dry or lubed and do that each time. It doesn't matter which, though dry is assumed if not specified otherwise (type of lube would then be also)
Major change in the toque between the two
I know this is an old post but I spent nearly 20 years as a professional mechanic/technician before getting smart.
Just like your upgraded parts, scopes a quality torque wrench that will be accurate is going to cost $$$. I probably paid $1000 for three high end torque wrenches that I still have and use. 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Had a 3/4 at one time that was around $700. Depending on how critical you need to be you can decide from there. We're not building rockets that'll travel to Mars or torqueing a head on a $50,000 engine. Digital torque wrenches were coming in when I was going out but excellent because you can see it. However, it all depends on the accuracy of the original equipment and how it was set at the factory. At one place I worked we had to have our torque wrenches recalibrated every year and a sticker was placed on them to verify accuracy. The old school bar style is reliable but accuracy??
If you have a finger adjusted torque wrench, little knob on the side or the wrist twister never leave them set, always back them down to zero when finished. We learned, and this may or may not be true, that stored at a setting could cause it to become inaccurate. Not a torque wrench repair guy or manufacturer so cannot explain the theory behind that but when you pay $400 for a 3/8" torque wrench you tend to become very critical on it's care and use because you don't want to spend another $400.
Hope this helps.
We have found that releasing the spring in the "clicker" type keeps the accuracy consistent. Even if a bonehead forgets to back it off we have not had a problem.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
That's how all of mine are, flick the lever and release the spring tension. Had them for almost 20 years and still very accurate.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks