Reply With QuoteFrom the muzzle, clockwise screws the barre in, counterclockwise screws the barrel off.
Before I go and do something stupid, confirm that the threads on the barrel nut are right hand.
IE righty tighty, lefty loosey
From the muzzle, clockwise screws the barre in, counterclockwise screws the barrel off.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
That was one of my first questions as well, i.e. what if they do it different?
Looked at an Armorers Video of the procedure, per Hothold442, looking at it form muzzle end, nut loosens counter clockwise (lefty loosey)
Older 111, with the long nut wrench and a breaker bar it came off with downward pressure nicely, didn't strain and did not have to put my weight into it.
There are right hand thread
Just like ketchup or cheap wine
Ya'll hang on I'm gonna drive closer
Thanks, didn't want any surprises.
Except if it is a left handed action, then they opposite applies.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Wrong!Originally Posted by scope eye
The barrel threads for the LH action are the same as the RH action.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
I know I was just screwing with the new guy.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Years back there was a commercial about a guy training a dog and when the dog did not do the right thing it was Bad Boy, No Biscuit.
It has become known as a BBNB, OP is welcome to use it! (grin)
We try not to put Dean in the doghouse here, he gets enough of it at home!
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Savage also made a short run of ambidextrous actions, that you can loosen either way.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
The BBNBs are building fast.
From James at NSS: Be sure to use an action wrench. The relative motion required to loosen the nut is between the barrel nut and the action, not between the barrel nut and the barrel.
In other words, if you clamp the barrel in a vice, you'll need an action wrench that inserts into, or grabs onto the action to spin it off the barrel, provided that the point of effort is closest to the breech. If clamped at or effort is applied near the aft portion of the action, you risk permanently twisting the action. But if you clamp the action into an action vice/wrench, you can use a barrel nut wrench to simply loosen the nut, and then spin the action off the barrel without risking damage to the action.The difference is that the former action has to overcome drag on the both the barrel nut, and a longer portion of threaded barrel. And if any corrosion has occurred over time, or the thread fit between the barrel and action is tight, or if thread locker was used, the likely hood of damage to the action is much greater.
Done correctly, it's a 15 minute job. Done incorrectly and you get a lifetime supply of BBNB.
Woof!
I found that clamping or holding the action wrench in a vice and using the nut wrench provides a stable platform to loosen and tighten the Barrel Nut system with improved ergonomics and less chance of distortion from induced (savagesmith) stress.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Yep, I wrote and told Jim I could not think more highly of the NSS tool. My barrel was a bit sticky with the nut off, but at that point I just clamped it in the vice lightly with wood blocks and the action wrench had more than enough leverage to turn it off.
I looked at a lot of videos of people doing it and the action wrench looked to be the ticket. NSS is the best one I think was well, has the cutouts below as well as the area to put in the vice.
I was surprised there was not ore nut resistance, started easy and it came off (7 inches of the wrench and a breaker bar allowed easy leverage). Short wrench probably works fine but I liked having the insurance of the longer lever on the long one.
I was planning on clamping the barrel in the press and using nut and reciever wrenches.
Clamp the action wrench in a vice (there is a milled area on the bottom of it just for that) , then undo the nut (a low cost 1/2 breaker bar should do it if you have the half inch hole cut in the nut wrench). I don't buy cheap tools normally, but a low cost Home Depot or try Sears, they have good tools for decent prices.
I think as small as 4 inch vice would work (mine is 4.5 or 5 inch). You can get a cheap one at any hardware store, Sears may have a decent one for decent cost.
Once the nut is undone the barrel is not that tight as all the clamp is with the nut. Mostly some remand lock tite in the threads.
If I was as herky as I used to be I might have got it off by hand. I have to watch the back thease days
So I put two blocks of wood in the vice, clamped the barrel and then used the leverage of the action wrench to turn off and it came off fine. Almost but not quire hand resistance.
I did not use the steel handle on the action wrench (did not have to)
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