I'm suppose to be picking up a model 10 action on monday. I have a sporter 308 barrel laying in the safe. All my bolt rifles have long barrels. So I'm thinking for this one I want to go with a 16" barrel. At that short of length, is there much benifit of a heavy barrel over the sporter I have? I know some guys at a machine shop that would cut down and thread the barrel I have for a package of steaks. So it won't cost much to put the sporter on.
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A heavy barrel gets you range time. If its hunting, lighter is fine.
Shorter does not help that as the barrel heats up with the narrow taper.
I don't understand the threading part, not a Savage barrel?
Contour wise you shorten up a Varmint barrel (Savage is a very heavy one) and its a Bull at 17 inch pretty much as the taper is still low.
Really depends on what you want to do with it.
If you are talking about cutting it down from the chamber end I gather that is not a good idea.
A sporter .308 cut to 16 inches makes for a nice deer carbine, for sure. Gives you a nice, stiff, handy bolt gun.
I would keep the heavier barrel full length for the bench time.
I'm fixin to cut down a 308 sporter also, but I'm going to stop at 19". I have heard that the muzzle blast starts to really get severe after that point? But if You're going to thread the muzzle and add a devise, depending on what it is, then that will get the blast back out there a couple inches. If you add a break, that will lessen the blast for you, but increase it for the guys beside you at the range ;-))
RC20, the threading would be at the muzzle. It's a savage take off barrel. Just want to have it threaded while it's in the lathe already. Thanks for your input guys. I think I will go ahead and cut the sporter barrel. Nothing else, I can do something different later.
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the sporter would need to be cut past 16 inch to make a 5/8×24 thread pitch
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Daniel is right.by the time it is machined and threaded the barrel walls will be too thin and it will also relax that part of the barrel and actually open it up rendering a good crown into a really bad one. Get a varmint type and shorten it to the legal length and with all that removed it will be fairly light anyways with plenty of diameter to thread. Look on all the likely sites and you will find one cheap enough to do it correctly. Also make sure you have minimum 16 inches from the breech face to tip and add a half inch of so incase you have to recrown it in the future. I have one at 20 inches and the ball off flames out the end is crazy along with it being really loud. Personally I wouldn't ever go shorter than 20 jnches but that works for me.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
If you've got .660 left at the muzzle you can thread to 9/16-24. There's nothing that says you have to have 5/8-24. Brakes and suppressors come in a number of combinations.
@RedandWhite
I have a Mod 10 action and had my spare sporter barrel, I had CAR Firearms in Tukwila Wa, cut it down and thread it for me. Came out great at 16.25" It's a 1 to 1.5MOA rifle. Usually better then MOA what I do my part, but well better tthen with I consider a hunting rifle OK accuracy. No it isn't a 1/4MOA, but it is perfect for lugging around the hills, and quick and short as all get out.
My Build,
- Mod 10 Accu trigger 308 action
- 16.25" Sav Sporter barrel
- $18 Ebay 3 slot Compensator (Best most efficient for the money!!!)
- tuned accu trigger
- OEM Large bolt knob
- Sav plastic stock with Rockite in the forend (Lightest, inexpensive stock) Free Floated
- Weaver 2 piece mounts,
- Talley lightweight Rings
- Leupold VX 1 4-12X40 LR scope
Total is at about 7lbs
I could save maybe another 6oz off with other scopes or the small OEM bolt knob, talley ring and base combo
But this is the setup I like and is great for close in pine tree deer hides or lugging over hill and dale, and I don't fee bad for a ding or two in it.
Just did my 308 sporter yesterday. Took it down to 19". Took less than 2hrs, including digging up everything I needed. Came out very nice I think. Gotta see if I can post pictures from my iPad. :-)
What is the thread on your muzzle? Please post a picture of yours, I'd love to see it.Originally Posted by triehl27
That's exactly what I'm thinking, something short and light weight. I have a 308, 280 ai, 300 rum and 338 win mag all with 26" barrels and all weight 10+ pounds. If I want to shoot distance, any one of them would be better than a 22" 308 sporter. So why not cut a spare down to minimum?!?!
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Please do post a pic, I'd love to see it.
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I think if I remember right it is 5/8-24. The barrel just behind the brake is .648. I think Fred at CAR Arms said he needed .640 minimally. It's just the cheap $18 Ebay muzzle brake that works FANTASTIC!
I actually notice I have made changes, I added the Weaver multislot rail, instead of the weaver 2 piece, because the Leupold didn't sit where I wanted it, and I changed the rings to Leupold rings to get the height I wanted. Still, a light fast rifle.
Of all the Savages I have owned (17) or so, this one has the smoothest bolt I have ever come accross. From the factory it was like glass ball bearings and butter. I have touched up everything with 2000-5000 grit sand paper. It is so smooth that I can ALMOST load it from the magazine, just with the bolt weight on closing alone.
Very nice.
I think if I remember right it is 5/8-24. The barrel just behind the brake is .648. I think Fred at CAR Arms said he needed .640 minimally. It's just the cheap $18 Ebay muzzle brake that works FANTASTIC!
I actually notice I have made changes, I added the Weaver multislot rail, instead of the weaver 2 piece, because the Leupold didn't sit where I wanted it, and I changed the rings to Leupold rings to get the height I wanted. Still, a light fast rifle.
Of all the Savages I have owned (17) or so, this one has the smoothest bolt I have ever come accross. From the factory it was like glass ball bearings and butter. I have touched up everything with 2000-5000 grit sand paper. It is so smooth that I can ALMOST load it from the magazine, just with the bolt weight on closing alone.
technically you can, the fal is. but according to ppl at silencer talk if a can is used the weight may cause the barrel to break at the shoulder. a 308 win may have enough to cause it
if the threads are just for a break for fh, then no problem
i have never heard or seen it happen, just relaying why i never did it to mine.
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The threads would be for a flash supressor. I have no current plans to get a silencer.
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You have less options with that thread pattern. they are available you just have to look. the thread pattern comes in left hand and right hand. both should be fairly common.
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I have a '06 threaded 9/16-24 on a 24" standard sporter Remington contour barrel. My Silencerco Harvester rides along real nice.
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