Reply With QuoteDon't know on the MDT Skeleton and bolt, it sure looks nice. Both Luth MBA-1 and MBA-3 will allow the bolt to clear.
Got suppressor mount in, will mount Sunday and go to range Monday and post results.
Don't know on the MDT Skeleton and bolt, it sure looks nice. Both Luth MBA-1 and MBA-3 will allow the bolt to clear.
Thank you very much. I definitely enjoy my rifle.Originally Posted by CBryars2
I didn't measured, but I can assume, each squire is 1", so it is about 7/16" my best estimate. There was Sun shining right in front and above, I used towel to cover head. Also I need to buy additional scope shade. Now they don't have in stock, ones they have, I will order it.
Monopod I have made didn't work, too long. I will cut half of it, then it should be good.
Shot my rifle for the 1st time yesterday and loved it! Took about 15 rounds to sight in starting at 50 then going to 100. Then I shot three 3 shot groups. I cleaned the rifle every shot for the 1st 20 rounds so it was a slow process. Here are my groups using Hornady 120 Grain AMAX. Not .5 MOA but a solid start in my opinion.
Another shot of my rifle and my friend's Ruger Precision.
Good looking and shoots great- wait til it breaks in!
Bhowell,Gun case I custom cut to fit the savage.
Nice setup. Is that a 5 round magazine? If so, what brand (looks like Magpul) and any issues with fit or function?
Thanks!
Yes. That's a magpul 5 and a magpul 10. Both worked great. Didn't even bother with the cheap supplied mag.
Been looking at the 10BA for a bit now and trying to decide on options after SHOT '17.
The Stealth looks good, small chassis aside (not interested in the larger 110... want a 6.5). Not sure why they started or stayed with a flat rail out of the box instead of a 20MOA.
Anyone have the EGW part# replacement for the 20MOA piece? Looks like even the slightly overpriced Ashbury version might have a 0MOA with its $500+ pricetag premium over the base Stealth.
Product ID : 41002
Here's a link to the rail. Make sure you select the 8-40 screws.
http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts/...-mount-20-moa/
thanks much.
Got put on Jury Duty - so besides loading a few rounds and mounting suppressor, nothing to report. Went to Gunshow one stealth .308 for 1049, and 3 RPR's Gen 2 6.5 and .308 for 1250-1299 for sale.
I wanted to chime in that I've enjoyed this thread quite a bit. I purchased a stealth in 6.5 on Black Friday for a very good price. It did come with a 22" barrel and savage swapped it out without any questions. I received the new 24" barrel just after New Years. I've mounted a Burris XTR II in a Larue mount (LT111) and changed out the buttstock for an XLR tactical, both which I highly recommend. I'm still going through the process of getting the rifle broken in and adjusted. I'll be starting the process of reloading soon. Haven't been able to determine accuracy yet, but my initial impression is that it's on par with the rest of the guns mentioned in this thread. I think once it's dialed in it will be putting up some solid groups.
What suppressor did you mount? Are you going to log your point of impact shift?
Welcome! Which Burris XTR II did you go with? I have one so I'm curious how you like it. Can you share pictures of your rifle?
I have an update. Shot 200 yards 2nd time out after zeroing at 100. Used the Ballistic AE iPhone app which I had added the 120 Grain Hornady AMAXs I was shooting in. Dialed the elevation adjustment up .5 mils and was on from the first shot. Went through the 10 rounds I had left of AMAX then shifted to Hornady 129 Grain American Whitetail which I found to be terrible.
Since then I ordered a Silencerco Omega suppressor and installed a SiCo 7.62 brake. Also purchased 80 rounds of 140 Grain ELD-M as I've read these are some of the best long range projectiles because of the high BC and the barrel twist rate matches well with 140s.
Went with a Sig Supressor in 338 since I shoot multiple calibers. Will post results, jury duty ended last night.
Was doing some maintenace on the rifle and decided to re-torque scope base screws. For my surprising found that screws are 8-40 instead of 6-48. Does anybody else have the same?
Unless I'm misunderstanding you're question that's what everyone has been "torqued" off about. 0 MOA rail installed with bigger screws so until recently even if you ordered a new aftermarket 20 MOA rail you had to drill the holes in the new base to fit the screws.
Everyone I've spoken to that has a Stealth has the 8-40 scope rail screws. If you want to order a 20 MOA rail from EGW they say it'll take a week to drill it out for the 8-40 screws.
http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts/...-mount-20-moa/
Sharpshooters Supply has a 20 MOA rail that will work.
I was under impression that screws were 6-48, I didn't know they have changed on Stealth to 8-40. I am new to Savage, just read everywhere people are complaining about Savage has 6-48 screws. This is why it was surprise for me.
Now, on the different note. Can someone explain to me how scope sighted with 20 MOA base? In my understanding, after installing 20 MOA base, I have to crank elevation down and sight crosshair to the target at 100 yards. This is pretty much clear. But what is next? I have to crank elevation 20 MOA up and assume I am on target at 1000 yards range (it shouldn't be, in my ballistic calculator bullet drop at list 28 MOA)? I just do not understand how 20 MOA works. Please help
You'll have to request theirs be drilled out for the larger screws as well when ordering.
You sight in exactly the same way as you do with a zero degree base. All a 20 MOA base does is angles the scope so that when you zero you will have more up travel left over for dialing for longer distances.
For example, say you had your scope mounted on a zero base and after zeroing you had 27 minutes of up travel. Now you swap out the zero base for a 20 MOA base and re-zero. Assuming everything is kosher with everything else you should now have 47 minutes of up travel available in your scope.
You still need to dial in the same amount of dope to go from your zero to 1,000 yards no matter if you have a zero or 20 MOA base.
Here is the theory behind a 20 moa base: Say for example you have 80 MOA of total elevation you can dope on your scope (40 MOA above mechanical center and 40 MOA below Mechanical center) now, I have never seen a scope that is both zeroed @ 100 yards and also mechanically centered.
So, let's say you're zeroed @ 100 yards and you only have say 25 MOA of elevation left on your turret that you can dial.... But you need say 35 MOA to get to 1000 yards... So, you slap the 20 MOA rail on and you can now effectively dial 45 MOA of elevation. It's always best if you can keep your dope more in the middle of the dialing capabilities. As you start to max out your dope, the turrets may not track exactly as they should which can through off your shot. You still have to run the same calculations on your app to see what your actual dope is going to be. Really it should be the same required dope that you needed when you didn't have the rail on it. The rail only increases your available elevation MOA.
Hope that helps,
So seeings how this is a post about first impressions I have a list of firsts, this is my first forum post ever, 2nd first I am new to long range shooting, 3rd I am a new owner of a 6.5 creedmoor in a stealth platform, having said that the discussion on MOA rails has me wondering if I made a wrong decision in putting 20 MOA scope rings under my Vortex PST. What are the thoughts between the 2 options. Scope rings or MOA base? Thanks
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In my opinion it's just a matter of preference... Some guys like the rail, some guys like the rings and spacers.... My suggestion is, just buy quality which ever way you go.
With a 0 MOA base, your scopes elevation knob is set somewhere around mid travel (maybe, give or take). By using a 20 or more MOA rail you tip the front of your scope down. After zeroing your scope you have more adjustment up then you do down. So it be the 20 MOA rail, plus the adjustment available in your scope.
Say your scope has 12 MOA of adjustment. You have a 0 MOA rail so when you 0 at a hundered yards the scopes adjustment is at 6 or 7 roughly 50% of it's adjustable range is wasted. Cant the scope forward or down and you 0 at a hundred. You have more of the scopes adjustment usable to go up.
Here's a link that explains it way better than my explanation. http://warnescopemounts.com/20moa-explained/
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