Reply With QuotePossible the threads could be proud on the barrel
lightly run a flat file over the threads on the barrel see if that helps
I am working on a custom 6.5 Creedmoor build. I have not torn the donor rifle down as of yet so I am in able to swap parts around to test. My concern is this... I have a new CNC machined barrel nut and a new Apache barrel. I went to thread the barrel nut on and it seems excessively tight. I can only get it 2 or 3 revolutions before being unable to turn further. Has anyone else ran in to this? I don't want to force it and run in to problems. My others have all turned much easier.
Possible the threads could be proud on the barrel
lightly run a flat file over the threads on the barrel see if that helps
PLUS, don't force it. A Savage small shank barrel nut will turn on about 2 to 3 Remington Threads.Originally Posted by drybean
Try drybean's suggestion, count how many threads the nut goes on, then after filing, see if it goes further on the threads. If it doesn't, it may be the wrong nut. If it still stops after 4 or 5 turns on the threads, it may need more attention than a file.
Dennis
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
Travis, is yours a Remage barrel or Savage?
It's a Savage barrel and the nut is from Sinn.
Well, I have had similar issues before. sometimes the threads are just a bit tight. If you have access to sand blast cabinet, you could cover the barrel with tape and blast the threads, then clean them good with a dremel brush and lots of flushing of wd-40. You could do the same with the inside of the nut. You also might lube both well and try spinning the nut on with a wrench and a barrel vise. Don't force it, but work it back and forth gently and firmly. Sometimes I will hit the nut and/or action with a deadblow hammer and twist it back and forth until it starts moving forward again. Just be sure not to force it or you will gall the threads of the barrel and or nut. (I have done that, too).
Drybean's idea makes sense, too.
I was just looking at the Sinarms website and noticed they sell a Remington barrel nut also. I'm hoping the didn't send the wrong one. I'm going to pull the action and barrel apart to see if the old barrel nut threads on to the new barrel and vice versa as soon as I have some spare time... At this rate that may be a while...
Did you try the barrel in the action without the barrel nut? A couple of factors can influence the fit, pitch diameter and the treading insert radius being incompatible between the two parts come to mind as well as the major OD of the barrel and the minor ID of the nut..
You really should mic the thread diameter and prove that the thread is oversized prior to sanding. It's not that difficult. If that is the case, sandpaper with a flexible backing like on a roll or wet dry will work. 320 or finer is good due to the small area of stock removal. Go slow.
You can put the barrel in a barrel vise and use the shoe shin method going slow and rotating it as you go, the material comes off fast and keeping things concentric is a must. You can also take a wire brush, the one that looks like a toothbrush and clean the threads in the receiver and on the barrel using a spray cleaner to help flush it out.
Count the threads
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I haven't had a chance to pull the donor rifle apart yet. I strongly suspect it's the barrel nut as Apache ONLY does Savage barrels. While I suppose there could still be an error on that side, I suspect the barrel nut is to blame. It came in a plastic bag with no way to tell if it was the Savage or RemAge barrel nut. Hopefully I can tear apart the donor rifle in the next few days which will point me in the right direction.
Savage - 20 threads per inch (10 per half inch)
Remington - 16 Threads per inch (8 per half inch)
You can count them. Caveman simple. Count them.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Apache creates Remage, Remington prefits (shouldered) and AR 15/10 barrels also not just Savage barrels.
The way to tell which nut you have is to count the threads as Robinhood has stated.
INFERNO
I'm at work for the night. I will count threads when I get home tomorrow and go from there. For some reason I was thinking it was Apache which only did Savage barrels, a little more thought and now I'm thinking it was Bison. Hopefully it's just something stupid that can easily be fixed. I would rather deal with a nut problem than a barrel problem.
If you have a thread pitch gauges from a tap and die set or you can buy one. Handy things to have around. Auto store and sears sells them.
I will take a look at mine and see if they cover those pitches.
Don't fiddle with anything until you get the facts and then have it corrected by the right party.
Popping the barrel off should be easy and gets you a comparison nut.
what RC said!!!
Or you could do what I do force it until it gets easy.
Would rather not say who posted this.
OK I'm Drybean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
I finally found my thread pitch gauge (hey its not easy when you are home and away as it were!)
They do have both the 20 and 16 pitch (and while that's a standard these are barrel threads and it could be non)
I could not remember if those were or not. Once in a blue moon do I need to check that sort of thing (machine shop would all the time)
So pull the barrel or get the gauge, then decide which way to go.
I am hoping to have enough time to get on it this week. I've been helping a family member move on my days off so far. I did look at the threads and they appear to be the same. That being said, I just need to figure out which needs the attention...
Well, it appears to just be a VERY tight fit. The barrel fits in the action just fine. The new barrel nut goes on the old barrel just fine. The new barrel nut just does not want to thread on to the new barrel. It will make a few rotations before it binds up. Looks like I get to spend some time doing some thread clean up.
You may have stacked clearances, I would try to borrow a micrometer and find out if the barrel threads are oversize or the nut is.
Tend to think the nut but maybe Dennis can weigh in.
Not something I would want to tackle working it down but then I am a bit gun shy (pun) on that sort of thing unless desperate and this is not desperate.
If I was desperate I would use Emory cloth or extremely fine sand paper and doing the barrel threads with it wrapped around them while turning the barrel would get the most even results. We are talking 300+ grit.
Desperate is a cross threaded bolt on a engine harmonic balancer ! (took a 4 foot bar to break it back off and buying a tap to clean up the threads. ungh.)
I'm actualy sitting here working both the nut and barrel with some Emory cloth. I've gained a little but am taking my time.
You may try fine valve lapping compound
should me available at any good auto parts store
I'm kind of back to the same problem. The nut fits great now but I went to slide the new recoil lug on and it was a no go.... Black to the Emory cloth...
It's a common situation with aftermarket barrels. The external threads are cut correctly but the peaks are left with a sharp point.
Internal threads (action and nut) with have threads that are cut with a tool with a radius on the end.
What you are experiencing is the conflict between the radiused valley of the internal thread and the sharp peak of the external threads.
Your emery cloth is knocking down the peak. As would a light tough with a file as already mentioned.
Sounds like you just about have it. Hope it's a shooter.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I agree GG. Once the recoil lug goes on its good to go.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
It's on. Now off to paint the stock... Did the inlet work wast night. This thing better shoot...
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