Savage 11-VT Re-barrel question.

[SNORTHRUP1]

I bought a Savage 11-VT (Dicks Sporting Goods exclusive) in .243 about 6 months ago, and have it set-up for predator hunting with a Nikon PROSTAFF 4-12x40 scope & Blackhawk tactical rings and use it for target shooting as well. My primary load I use is Hornady American Whitetail ammo with the 100 grain Interlock BTSP with an advertised velocity of 2,960 FPS. I know this is probly a stupid question, but was wondering when the time comes if a Savage 11-VT can be re-barreled when the bore / rifling is wore-out? Something I would have a gunsmith do when the time comes.

[scooterf79]

Shouldn't be a problem at all. Loosen the barrel nut, unscrew the barrel.
Install new barrel with headspace gauge, tighten down barrel nut.
Pretty much all theready is to it. 20min and you're done. Using the right tools and no gunsmith needed.
Scooter

[SNORTHRUP1]

Thank you Scooter.

[scooterf79]

No problem.
I don't know which models have them and which don't but if you have a smooth barrel nut, you'll need to buy a slotted one. Most of the time the smooth ones don't come off without some damage being done to them.
Scooter

[RC20]

I would say its a bit more in depth than that but not complicated.

You do need some tools (though I think you could kludge with a pipe wrench and a vice, gasp)

What seems to be the best setup is the action wrench, I got mine from Northern Shooter Supply, its been modified to work better with the Savage.

Also a barrel nut wrench. If yours is the segmented nut that is pretty easy, the smooth nut needs a pin or a pipe wrench or even cutting it off.

I think both tools are around $80. Better nut and recoil lug adds another 50 or so.

As a mechanic, I like precision and the NSS tool comes with torque specs for the 3 fasteners used to hold the receiver as well as the torque spec for the nut.

I had the sockets, torque wrench , 5.5 inch vice and breaker bar for mine so I didn't need to invest in those. You can do it by feel but I really like having the spec.

Set of head space gauges runs about $58 (go and no go). You can do it with just the Go, I like the cross check with the no go.

I don't like using hammers on tools so I used my breaker bar on the NSS tool (and with heat from my wife's hair dryer to heat up the lock tite on the threads) the nut came off nicely (just down force)

There are a lot of U Tube videos on it, some of them make me cringe technique wise, better one on a Remington 700 Remage (same setup once you get the non nutted original Remington barrel off.

I got a CD from the library that had the Savage on it, also included trigger takedown, bolt takedown and that is very useful. I will see if I can find the title.

You can get a barrel wrench and do it as well, but the action wrench to me works better as not nearly as much clamp force needed. Some home made ones but you need a bare contour hard wood, cap screwed so squeeze it down and a god awful lot of force involved.

While Savage went the nut route for production purposes (and it seems nutty to me others are not) it does make it perfectly workable for doing so with some tools (one time investment). 243 is going to shoot a barely out a lot sooner than other calibers, suggest a 308 as one of the best low barrel eaters (6BR I think is best)

My incentive was that I could find no one making a heavy barrel 30-06 (target shooting for fun) so went down the road. It turns out Cablessa has a Remington 30-06 that is (heavy varmint contour) but did not know about it at the time. My brother has one and is not too happy as its very deep throated, apparently for the long range new ultra low drag bullets.

[SNORTHRUP1]

Thank you guys for your input. I asked because all the re-barreling videos I seen on Youtube they had the slotted barrel nut and mine is smooth. I have no issue with buying another barrel nut if needed when it comes time to do so.