Setting Head space

**Hector** · 06-11-2016, 11:26 AM

I can not get my hands on a 6BR go-gauge just now so I'm going to set the head space with a resized piece of brass. The results will be zero head space, is that correct, is that what I want, or am I missing another step? I understand how to do the no-go test with some tape.
I read a lot of old post on this subject and but still have to ask.

**Dennis** · 06-11-2016, 11:29 AM

Are you looking to buy a 6BR go guage? Or borrow one?

Dennis

PS: It's best to set the headspace with the proper tools

**Hector** · 06-11-2016, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by Dennis

Are you looking to buy a 6BR go guage? Or borrow one?

Dennis

PS: It's best to set the headspace with the proper tools

Borrow. I know a guy that has one but he's not available and I wanted to get my new barrel set up and shoot it. Do you have one for sale?

**Zero333** · 06-11-2016, 11:41 AM

Full length sizing a case most of the times makes it 0.004" (or more) shorter than a go-gauge so this will not work. Unless you only feed it full length sized brass that measure the same as the one you used as the go gauge. and no other ammo will ever fit in there.

Factory ammo will be closer to go-gauge length.

If you have a headspace comparator or a case bump gauge you can use a once fired piece of brass as a no-go gauge. Then bump the shoulder 0.003" of another once fired brass and use it as a go-gauge.

Otherwise you need the proper go & no-go gauges. Or use 1 or 2 pieces of masking tape on the head of the go-gauge and use that as a no-go-gauge... 1 piece of masking tape = 0.002"

If you're really set to do it asap, Factory ammo will do the job ... but disable the trigger by any means for safety sakes.

**earl39** · 06-11-2016, 02:00 PM

You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge.

Zero, Factory ammo will vary from lot to lot so you could set with factory ammo and not be able to chamber the next box you buy. Factory ammo is notorious for excess head space.

**GaryB** · 06-11-2016, 02:16 PM

You can rent the headspace gauges here...

http://www.4-dproducts.com/displayit...7&tname=rental

They are $8.00 to rent for the set but they have a $10.00 min order.

**Dennis** · 06-11-2016, 02:30 PM

Originally Posted by Hector

Borrow. I know a guy that has one but he's not available and I wanted to get my new barrel set up and shoot it. Do you have one for sale?

I may have one I will sell you, or I will let you borrow mine.

Just send a PM if you are interested.

**geargrinder** · 06-11-2016, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by earl39

You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge.

Zero, Factory ammo will vary from lot to lot so you could set with factory ammo and not be able to chamber the next box you buy. Factory ammo is notorious for excess head space.

This is the best answer you have gotten.

Don't set your barrel on factory ammo. I did that once. I had to re-set that headspace because even the fired brass was so small, the FL die wouldn't even touch it.

**Hector** · 06-11-2016, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by Dennis

I may have one I will sell you, or I will let you borrow mine.

Just send a PM if you are interested.

Thank you Dennis, PM SENT.

**Hector** · 06-11-2016, 08:10 PM

[QUOTE=earl39;369296]You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge.

Earl; I'm going to give your suggestion a try. I've read a s**t load of post about this subject on this forum and I think your suggestion make sense. I really like the one die thing. We shall see.

**foxx** · 06-11-2016, 08:38 PM

Yep. Dennis is being generous, and it is the "right" way to do it, but I always do what Earl says when building for myself. I think they shoot better that way, too.

**RC20** · 06-12-2016, 11:39 AM

Originally Posted by earl39

You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge. Zero, Factory ammo will vary from lot to lot so you could set with factory ammo and not be able to chamber the next box you buy. Factory ammo is notorious for excess head space.

I think you should differentiate between experience and new to the game.

New is by far best served with the gauges and then move onto cross checks and get the feel by the above route.

That said that's the best approach for an experienced builder and reload/ shooter I have heard of who is after the tightest most accurate chamber.

Safest is more to the loose side, having worked with Model of 1917 aka Enfield's, those are way loose and I have had no brass issues that were not part of the learning curve on shoulder bump back and need to anneal.

**Newsshooter** · 06-12-2016, 12:03 PM

I used the tape method when I installed my .223 barrel but I had once fired lapua brass that came with the barrel. I followed it up and checked it with gauges as well and everything was fine.

**Robinhood** · 06-12-2016, 12:57 PM

Both ways work. First time experience having the no-go is good to have to understand the feel.

**Hector** · 06-12-2016, 06:37 PM

Thank you everyone for your replies.

The input given by everyone on this forum is what is helping me, and I believe others to make rational decisions.
I'm not new to 'head spacing' and how it works, it's the tape method that is new to me. I've already done a few trial runs with 'Earls' tape method and I believe it's going to work fine. I will keep you posted.

**Hector** · 06-12-2016, 06:51 PM

Along with all that..
The new barrel that I'm head spacing for is a Shilen Match Select in 6BR Norma. I looked at the breach end with a bore scope and it looks like an advertisement photo. It's really impressive.

**Zero333** · 06-13-2016, 09:04 AM

I have a few Shilen's and I hate how they short-throat them

but with the right loads they are very accurate.

With the masking tape method of making a no-go-gauge, make sure you measure the length of the go-gauge before and after applying the tape to have a good idea of the thickness.

1 piece of tape that is 0.002" thick will give you tighter headspace whereas 2 pieces that add up to 0.004" would make a standard length no-go-gauge.

**Hector** · 06-13-2016, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by Zero333

I have a few Shilen's and I hate how they short-throat them

but with the right loads they are very accurate.

With the masking tape method of making a no-go-gauge, make sure you measure the length of the go-gauge before and after applying the tape to have a good idea of the thickness.

1 piece of tape that is 0.002" thick will give you tighter headspace whereas 2 pieces that add up to 0.004" would make a standard length no-go-gauge.

Short throat, how short? I didn't want to hear that. This whole re-barrel project is because of throat problems.

**RC20** · 06-13-2016, 10:18 AM

I've used it to convert a no go gauge to a field reject for the 1917s (field reject are a bit expensive and you can't get them as a set)

Works a treat, save money and its just a confirmation check that its a typical 1917

**Hector** · 06-16-2016, 01:49 PM

OK, I got a hold of a go-gauge. I measured it. It measured at 1.100. My resized cases measure 1.101, this is with the press caming over so there's no slop. Now what, should I head space with the brass?

**Robinhood** · 06-16-2016, 06:29 PM

What brand of press do you have?

Randyc · 06-16-2016, 08:22 PM

What about using virgin brass?
how does it compare to a factory load?

**Robinhood** · 06-16-2016, 08:47 PM

Hector. You do not set the head space with the go gauge tight. You set it where the no go will not allow the bolt to close.

**foxx** · 06-16-2016, 11:38 PM

If you have your own brass that you've resized, and never intend to use anything different, you can headspace it off the resized brass. Just don't turn the barrel in so much that the bolt is hard to close on your brass. (I generally close the bolt, put the case in the chamber and spin it in till it stops against the bolt face. Check to be sure the bolt lifts alright, and if it's too tight so as to not lift easily, back it off a bit. Then tighten the barrel nut. Add tape to the case or go gage and check to see that the bolt handle will not close more than 1/2 way against the taped gage).