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Thread: Basic reloading-small quantities

  1. #1
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    Basic reloading-small quantities


    Kicking around the idea of doing reloading for my .223, although I will probably not shoot enough to pay for itself. But that is not why I would do it. Consistency and satisfaction would be the reasons. I found some older posts through a search, but not specific to my question.
    Knowing that I will probably infrequently reload, maybe 20 rounds a month, I am wondering if I should go the Lee Breech Lock or Anniversary Kit. Or just a very basic press like this

    http://leeprecision.com/reloader-press.html

    and add the other items I need. It could even boil down that regular shooting is not my cup of tea and end up not needing this at all. I guess I am asking if the above entry level press will do my job or if the kits are the only way to go?

  2. #2
    LongRange
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    Yes that press will do what you want plus it's cheap so if you decide shooting is not your cup of tea you won't take a big loss if you sell it off.

  3. #3
    Basic Member tufrthnails's Avatar
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    Although you can never have to many presses as I am finding out. I would hook up with someone that already loads and ask if they could show you the ropes and let you just by the dies and components you need. I have done this with several guys I am friends with that. Some have decided quickly it is not their cup of tea and some are full blown hardcore loaders now. Although you won't lose much of your investment since you can just throw the stuff on Ebay and get some money back if you don't like it or sell it on here pretty easily.
    [QUOTE=fgw_in_fla;256183]We told you so...[/QUOTE]

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tufrthnails View Post
    Although you can never have to many presses as I am finding out. I would hook up with someone that already loads and ask if they could show you the ropes and let you just by the dies and components you need. I have done this with several guys I am friends with that. Some have decided quickly it is not their cup of tea and some are full blown hardcore loaders now. Although you won't lose much of your investment since you can just throw the stuff on Ebay and get some money back if you don't like it or sell it on here pretty easily.
    My S-I-L already has offered to reload for me if I buy the components. He is already set up for 223. I just don't want to be dependent on him and would rather do myself. With the plain jane press, can I use it for priming, or will I have to get the Auto Primer XR? Either way, I won't have much investment. Balance scales, cleaning, trimming and deburring tools, and misc. would be very little expense.

    Edit. Just answered my own question. Lee has a primer accessory for a single stage press. It's like only 12 bucks or so.
    Last edited by WV1951; 05-22-2016 at 09:38 AM.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    If I purchased a press from lee it would be nothing less than a classic cast and I would grind off the linkage stop so that the press cams over. This is the only shortcoming to an otherwise top notch single stage press for the best price in the industry. The primer tool may come with the classic cast press. That press will always keep most of its value if you decide to move on.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #6
    Basic Member tufrthnails's Avatar
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    I only use my hand primer I get a better "feel" with it then the press. But that is just me somebody else may like using the press.
    [QUOTE=fgw_in_fla;256183]We told you so...[/QUOTE]

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    I'd love to urge you to get into reloading, but the truth is, the 223 is actually quite cheap to buy off the shelf. If the range you shoot at allows FMJ ammo, you can get that online for little more than two bits a round if you look around and stock up during sales.

    Cheapest I've found, and by far the most accurate is American Eagle tipped varmint in 50 grain. I've shot many three and five shot groups well under half a inch at 100 yds. and paid as little as $5.89 per 20 (just last year).

    As far as costs to reload, the press is only the starting point. You're going to need dies, tools, scales or droppers for powder, an infinite assortment of doo-dads that will (supposedly) help you get that magical tiny group and wet your appetite for more. I would estimate a thousand bucks to get set up properly for 223, including all the above plus powders, bullets, primers, brass, manuals, etc.

    I started with the Hornaday Lock and Load kit that came with an ultra-sonic cleaner, scale, etc. Think I paid about $250 on sale at Cabelas X-mas before last. I've since loaded about 5000 rounds, made about 75 trips to the range (50 miles round trip) and paid $15 admission each time, and recently replaced my barrel and stock.

    But hey, it's a hobby...something to get goofy about so you don't go crazy about things in general.

    PS. My biggest fear is that my wife will make me sell my reloading stuff for what i said I paid for it.

  8. #8
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    I've got the breech lock kit and the turret kit. I prime on the press. The kit has everything you need except dies and is the best value. I've tried the hand primer tool and it's the biggest waste of money going. The press sets them perfectly.
    I don't have a rifle that prints bigger than 1/2moa with my loads. Load development is half the fun. Making those slight changes that help improve consistency. I love filling them almost as much as I like emptying them.
    I cannot stress this enough. Buy the one you think you'll use the most. Every single one you load on your own translates to less money spent per shot.
    And I had my reloading gear at the break even point in 6 weeks. Once you start it becomes an addiction.
    Lee makes great stuff and at a rice point that can't be touched.
    Yes of course you can spend more money on a press and misc stuff but at best it's marginally better if at all.
    I like the turret press personally. Instead of doing stuff in stages I can start and finish each case if they aren't dirty.
    In the end you will be using this thing so be as comfortable as you can. Jmo

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    Texas 10-I was under the impression that FMJ,s normally don't deliver consistent accuracy that others do and I haven't tried any other off the shelf ammo. My few shots have been with some hand loads. Six bucks a pop for fairly accurate off the shelf stuff would be fine and it would give me brass should I decide to reload. I just haven't seen any of this around. From my reading, I can see no way it would be a grand. Yea, I know it takes a minimum amount of gadgets, but my quantities will be minimal.

    Ryfulman- Appreciate the comment. The kits include a powder measure, that won't be needed for no more than I would do. I'd just use the scales. Price is not an issue, but I hardly ever buy more than is needed to get the job done. Speed is not important. If I go the kit route, it would probably be the Anniversary, since it doesn't use the hand primer, and offers priming on the press. It is certainly a learning curve.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    To get started you only need a way to remove the primer, size the brass measure powder and seat the bullet. Then you want more accuracy. Then you find your brass has stretched. So now you have a nice beam scale and a case trimmer. Etc....etc...etc...
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  11. #11
    schnyd112
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    Set yourself up to reload. You think it will be infrequently. Eventually you will be buying primers by the 1000 and multiple pounds of powder. If you like to shoot, reloading will become another aspect of the hobby.

    Buy once, cry once? For some that rings true but I load for 25-06, .260, .45 acp, .38/.357 mag and used to spin up .220 swift with a 79.00 rcbs partner press and a 5-0-5 scale. You can get into that for less than $200 with dies and a set of calipers. I have since added more tools but the basic equipment is still the same.

    Price is great when reloading, not sure about the real offset with .223, but you will be able to roll up rounds that match your barrel. You will get a better understanding of what is happening inside your chamber and what that means after the bullet leaves the barrel. If you aren't sure it is for you, there is no shame in starting low priced and upgrading as you go.

  12. #12
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Schnyder makes a great case. "Understanding". Once you get into it it becomes more addicting than modifying Savage rifles.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    If you don't mind used, check out the EE section of ar15.com, reloading section. Always see sweet deals on used kits. Cheaper than new. Some folks just getting out of it sell big kits dirt cheap. Worth a look. As posted above, its addicting. Worst than doritos. I started reloading for 50BMG since those rounds are expensive. Now 308, 40 S&W and soon 9mm, 243 and 6.5 creedmoor. Only a couple years into it. Plinking stuff really doesn't save much. But the good quality ammo you buy on the shelves is not cheap, this is where you can save some bucks.
    Savage 10 FCP-SR 308, 300BO PCS

  14. #14
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    People die on a regular basis. Some of them shoot and reload and the stuff they have is now worth almost nothing.
    So its either given away or almost given away at a place like ebay. You will buy a very good press for 15 to 25 dollars.
    You will also find dies and everything else you need very reasonably. Also look on Craigslist. Be carefull posting adds on
    Craigslist as there are scammers trying to separate you from your money.

  15. #15
    Basic Member Willoughby's Avatar
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    I would at least get a O type press , not a C type regardless of make , used is the way to go lot of forums selling good used stuff
    If your lucky enough to live in the BIG woods your lucky enough

  16. #16
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    Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions.
    As stated earlier, there is a minimum to start with. Yea, used equipment makes a lot of sense, but it isn't that much to start with new. I will at least look used.
    I have gotten a basic idea though. Bare bones set up would be(give or take depending on ordering site)

    Entry level press-Lee C type ~$35.00
    Ram primer 11.00
    Powder scale 24.00
    Funnel 3.00
    Shell holder(comes with dies) 0
    Case conditioning kit 10.00
    Gage/holder 6.00
    Lube 4.00
    Calipers(already have) 0

    This runs about 90 bucks and figure $15-20 to ship. This would be priming on the press.
    Dies(4 set) and case length gage/holder will be another 45-50 bucks.

    The Breech Lock Challenger kit(hand prime) or Breech Lock Anniversary kit(press prime) will run $120 or so, and with the case length gage/holder and dies(4 set) will bump it to ~$175. Powder, brass, and primers will round it out.

    For no more than I will do, probably won't use the powder measure, but it comes with both kits. Still, the kits are probably the way to go and get a better press.

    If nothing else, maybe this info and comments will help more noobs make a better informed decision when contemplating reloading.
    .

  17. #17
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    If that scale is a pocket digital scale, throw it away or use it for non critical things. They are junk. Decide on a good beam or digital scale. You don't want to skimp on this. Unless your loading hot, you can be a little off on rifle. Pistol doesn't have much room for error. Since your not doing allot, a good beam scale will get you going.
    Savage 10 FCP-SR 308, 300BO PCS

  18. #18
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    No, it is the Lee balance scale that comes in their kits. I changed to reflect this.

  19. #19
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Be aware that crimped primers may ruin your day.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  20. #20
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    Yea, I think I have read about crimped primers and IIRC, they are mostly on military brass. Please correct me if I am incorrect.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV1951 View Post
    Yea, I think I have read about crimped primers and IIRC, they are mostly on military brass. Please correct me if I am incorrect.
    You are correct. Not hard to remove once you get the right tool.
    Savage 10 FCP-SR 308, 300BO PCS

  22. #22
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearcatrp View Post
    You are correct. Not hard to remove once you get the right tool.
    What tool is that? I was reffering to decapping.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  23. #23
    Team Savage snowgetter1's Avatar
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    I just use the inside chamfer on my handheld Cabelas inside/outside tool. A couple of twists and the crimp is gone. Can't think of what is really called.

  24. #24
    Team Savage snowgetter1's Avatar
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    This except I don't have the very low drag model.
    http://www.cabelas.com/product/shoot...Tz_stype%3DGNU

  25. #25
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    you decap with a chamfer tool? Can you make a video?

    LOL I said decap not removing crimp. Pushing the primer out wit ha lee c press and cheap dies can ruin your day. removing the crimp is the easy part. Lake city is not bad brass, Consistent weight but much of it is crimped. It is worth removing the crimp and match preping for a bolt action. 5 + reloads without problems.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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