Need to Paint SS Shilen Barrel

**Russmerle** · 02-15-2016, 07:20 PM

Hey guys, I need to paint my stainless steel Shilen barrel. It's a 26" Select super Match Bull Barrel 300WM. I would like some good product recommendations that are lower cost.

My my first thought it flat black tractor paint or engine enamel. Here is a picture of the rifle to help with opinions...

**short round** · 02-15-2016, 09:36 PM

If it bead or sandblasted the finish will stick better. High end Brownells Aluma Hyde, bottom end, barbcue grill paint.

**snowgetter1** · 02-16-2016, 05:58 AM

KG GunKote it is cheap easy to spray and very durable. Or just use cheap primer and touch up as needed.

**pbmax84** · 02-16-2016, 07:49 AM

If Dura Coat is done absolutely by the instructions it is incredibly tough. I hear people talk about how its no good and all, and I submit it was not done correctly. I have had it on a BVSS-S for over 5 years and it has exactly 2 pinhead size chips that are my own fault, and this rifle has NOT been babied (you should see the stock, LOL). I prepped it and had an auto body friend spray it and have been more than impressed. If you don't do the proper prep work, no finish is going to work correctly.

**Russmerle** · 02-16-2016, 08:43 AM

Originally Posted by pbmax84

If Dura Coat is done absolutely by the instructions it is incredibly tough. I hear people talk about how its no good and all, and I submit it was not done correctly. I have had it on a BVSS-S for over 5 years and it has exactly 2 pinhead size chips that are my own fault, and this rifle has NOT been babied (you should see the stock, LOL). I prepped it and had an auto body friend spray it and have been more than impressed. If you don't do the proper prep work, no finish is going to work correctly.

Is it basically a "scuff, degrease, dry and spray?"

rovert · 02-16-2016, 02:12 PM

I just did one with a high heat flat black followed by a satin clear coat. It looks quite close to a factory matte finish but it is black and doesn't have the blue hue of the factory finish.

**DrThunder88** · 02-16-2016, 03:25 PM

Originally Posted by Russmerle

Is it basically a "scuff, degrease, dry and spray?"

The good ones I've seen are more along the lines of "degrease, blast, clean, parkerize, degrease, and THEN spray"!

**WinnieTheBoom** · 02-16-2016, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by DrThunder88

The good ones I've seen are more along the lines of "degrease, blast, clean, parkerize, degrease, and THEN spray"!

Kyrolon, Duracote, Gun Kote, whatever are all only going to be as good as the preparation work!

**Dave Hoback** · 02-18-2016, 01:16 AM

Ok, the problem is you used "good product"(high quality) & "lower cost"(cheap) in the same sentence. And it depends on what YOU refer to as lower cost. Is $100 low enough? Because for that, the barrel can be nitrided. Now that is very high quality-the best IMHO. And it's not the most expensive. But if are referring to MY kind of cheap, than that $100 is way out of the question. I have had very good results with VHT products. I was heavily into building turbocharged racing engines in my younger years, and used about every product VHT makes. By coincidence, they have a coating called exactly what your looking for... "Barrel Paint".

http://www.eastwood.com/vht-barrel-p...-B4RoCYMbw_wcB

I believe this is your best bet, on the cheap. But as others have said, it really is the prep work that makes the biggest difference. Have the barrel bead blasted if you can, if not, sand it VERY well with 800-1200g paper, than fine scotchbright. Clean it very well with turpentine, alcohol, etc.

**mikgarus** · 02-18-2016, 09:05 AM

I have used Dupli-Color "Low Gloss Black part # DE1634 Engine Enamel with ceramic with good success.

**mattri** · 02-18-2016, 10:58 PM

I've shot a few barrels/barreled actions with DuraCoat. It holds up well and prep doesn't need to be prohibitive.

Clean/degrease your item, some basic scrubbing and brake cleaner will work.

Rough/scuff the item. If you can do a media blast great, if not just pay attention to what you're doing, focus on creases, seams etc.

THOROUGHLY clean/degrease again, from this point on limit contact, wear gloves, prep for spraying.

Spray evenly and lightly, resist the urge to bulk up any areas, just go slow and steady, light coats over and over again.

Leave it set! This stuff needs to cure, give it the appropriate amount of time to harden, plan ahead and don't touch it!

Use accordingly. Really the prep, application and curing are pretty simple, just follow the steps for a great result.

**Russmerle** · 03-03-2016, 12:35 AM

Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Ok, the problem is you used "good product"(high quality) & "lower cost"(cheap) in the same sentence. And it depends on what YOU refer to as lower cost. Is $100 low enough? Because for that, the barrel can be nitrided. Now that is very high quality-the best IMHO. And it's not the most expensive. But if are referring to MY kind of cheap, than that $100 is way out of the question. I have had very good results with VHT products. I was heavily into building turbocharged racing engines in my younger years, and used about every product VHT makes. By coincidence, they have a coating called exactly what your looking for... "Barrel Paint".

http://www.eastwood.com/vht-barrel-p...-B4RoCYMbw_wcB

I believe this is your best bet, on the cheap. But as others have said, it really is the prep work that makes the biggest difference. Have the barrel bead blasted if you can, if not, sand it VERY well with 800-1200g paper, than fine scotchbright. Clean it very well with turpentine, alcohol, etc.

Thanks! I'm going to look into duracoat as well but might try this first. Used on motorcycles and resistant to solvents, gasoline, etc...? This seems right up my ally.

**Russmerle** · 05-19-2016, 11:58 AM

Ok so I bought flat grill paint. I am painting my stainless M1A barrel too and figured I needed the high heat stuff for that. I'm painting it tonight so I'll post some picks soon.

Thanks for the help,

russ

Originally Posted by rovert

I just did one with a high heat flat black followed by a satin clear coat. It looks quite close to a factory matte finish but it is black and doesn't have the blue hue of the factory finish.

**Russmerle** · 05-19-2016, 12:07 PM

Ok never mind I just read horror stories about the BBQ paint. I'm going to pick up the high temp engine paint tonight.

russ

**Robinhood** · 05-20-2016, 12:47 AM

Aluma-Hyde II is your cheapest best bet. Clear the nozzle after you finish. You might even pick up some new nozzles just in case.

**Russmerle** · 05-20-2016, 10:28 PM

So so it didn't really turn out how I wanted it too... My fault though. I primed, painted with flat black engine enamel and then clear coated with a regular clear and not satin. I think if I would have waited and bought satin clear vs using what I had on hand it would have matched the receiver better. Here is the final regardless of the miss match...