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Thread: My first Savage 99....can't figure out what model?

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  1. #1
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    My first Savage 99....can't figure out what model?

    Hello everyone, new member here.

    I have a question for you 99 Guru's out there...

    I just bought a 99 Savage in .300 Savage caliber:

    1) It is a takedown model
    2) It is serial number 2577XX, which according to the web makes it a Transitional 1899/99 model, built in 1924
    3) It has a straight stock (non-checkered), with a metal Shotgun buttplate
    4) The barrel is 24 inches long, fully threaded, with a folding rear sight with white colored triangle on it
    5) front sight is an integral "short" beaded sight (looks like bronze bead)
    6) the receiver ring has 1899 Savage on it
    7) Barrel has patent dates, and .300 Savage along with hi pressure steel on it (or something to that affect)
    8) Barrel has arrow pointing "off" direction....no letter codes on barrel

    I still can't determine exactly what model it is? anybody know? the information is nebulous from the web.

    The barrel bluing is quite good with a light freckling of rust. The receiver has most of it's bluing worn away, mainly gray, with a light freckling of rust.

    The action is very smooth, and the bolt locks up tight when cocked. When not cocked, the bolt has a few thousands play both side to side and front to back. Bore looks great, and everything else is pretty darn good.

    The stock toe has a 3/8" or so chip out of it, and the forearm has a crack on the right upper side.

    My plan is to re-finish the stock, and rust blue all the metal (I have only done cold-bluing so far, but want to get into rust-bluing)

    Dealer wanted $ 400 for it, I paid $ 350

    Any help appreciated.

    thanx
    Don


    p.s. forget to mention....receiver has been top drilled for scope (Cry!)....I can live with that though

    when my wife finds MY camera, I will post photos

  2. #2
    Tommy 1899
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    Looking forward to the pictures

  3. #3
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    Thanks, still waiting on the Wife...

    Anybody else know what model i have?

    thanx

  4. #4
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    .

    AFAIK, you should have a Model 1899D.


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetahW View Post
    .

    AFAIK, you should have a Model 1899D.


    .
    Thanks,

    I find it quite difficult with info. from the web, to try and determine Savage's quirky model designations.

    I was thinking the D model also.


    btw, I took the rifle to the range today for the first time, along with Remington 150 grain rounds. The rifle shot well with most 5 shot groups less than an inch and a half, (at 100 yards). if the trigger wasn't so heavy, it might even shoot tighter groups. I can't wait to get some photos posted, so that I can begin the take down, and refurbishing.


    Thanks

    Don

  6. #6
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    Photos,,[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

  7. #7
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    more photos

    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

  8. #8
    Vintage Savage Guru Mad Dog's Avatar
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    It's an early version 99F. The rear sight has been changed and it's been drilled and tapped. The D&T will hurt any collector value but it will make a nice shooter.

    Definitely NOT an 1899D, that would be a military version Savage musket, way off.
    Savage- "never say never".

  9. #9
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    Thanks Mad dog, I see you are correct, as the D model is the Military Canadian model.

    I just yesterday, sanded down the stock, and I'm going to use crocus cloth on the metal, followed by rust-bluing. From what I have read, people say don't use finer grit than 320 because you will over-polish the metal, and it won't look Factory....is this correct?

    Also, my lever is pretty much completely gone of case hardening, is there a way for the do it yourselfer to re-case harden, or faux re-case harden the metal?

    thanx

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Dog View Post

    It's an early version 99F.

    Definitely NOT an 1899D, that would be a military version Savage musket, way off.

    I'm no expert, but I'm now properly confused, MD.......... ? ? ? (This is the 1st time I've ever heard of a Canadian Military Model 1899)



    Firstly, the OP's 1924 rifle is chambered in .300 Savage - and AFAIK, the 1899 Military rifles & carbines were chambered in only .303 Savage from 1899-1902 & in both the .303 and the .30-30 starting in 1902 ( the Military models discontinued on 1908).

    Secondly, in addition to having a musket-type stock (the BP curving around to the rear of the stock comb), AFAIK the 1899-1908 Military 1899's had no model designation letter.


    thirdly, I thought that at about the time (1924) of the OP's sample, of the "models" then made (A, B, C, D, E, F, & G), the A's & B's had 26" bbl's; the Model C's the same as the solid-frame A's, but with a 22" bbl + a shotgun butt; Model D's the takedown version of the Model C's; and the Model F's being a takedown version of the Model E's, but with a lightweight tapered barrel.


    Could you please help me with my understanding ?



    .

  11. #11
    Vintage Savage Guru Mad Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetahW View Post
    I'm no expert, but I'm now properly confused, MD.......... ? ? ? (This is the 1st time I've ever heard of a Canadian Military Model 1899)

    You can google it if you'd like, also known as a Montreal Home Guard. Not listed in Murrays book if that's what your using. There is a very good book titled Allied Rifle Contracts in America by Luke Mercaldo which has a really good chapter on the 1899D Montreal Home Guard and also has my name in it under acknowledgements.

    Couple pics might save you digging up info.

    Savage- "never say never".

  12. #12
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    Got the lever back from a guy who re-case hardened it for me....came out nice. I am waiting now to get the scope holes filled and TIG welded, to go forward with the restoration.

    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

  13. #13
    Vintage Savage Guru Mad Dog's Avatar
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    Nice work.
    Savage- "never say never".

  14. #14
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    Thanks.....

    A guy from a Rim fire Forum (another site) recommended Him

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    restoration

    Here are some photos with the restoration, I'm doing. I had the scope holes TIG welded, I filed them/sanded them, and i'm now in the process of Slow Rust Bluing the receiver.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

    This is only the second application of Rust-Bluing, it'll probably take 7 or so applications.

  16. #16
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    more[IMG][/IMG]

    photos of receiver boiling after rust-blue formula applied.


    [IMG][/IMG]

    Another application.

    Receiver, pretty close to being done. No oil applied yet for 24 hours.

    Barrel came out very nice..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  17. #17
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    [IMG][/IMG]

  18. #18
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    It looks like you have your answer but for future reference this attached link is a good overview of the model 1899/99 and it came from a prior entry from this forum...

    http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...l-99-do-I-have

    Good luck with the new gun... BTW sound like a good price... they are not plentiful but not too uncommon to find them where I live...Upstate NY. they average $600-$650 with some average wear....
    FG

  19. #19
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    Thanks for the info, I can't wait to get this back together.

  20. #20
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    Nice work friend! Keep it coming.

  21. #21
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    So far I am quite impressed with Slow Rust-bluing. Easy to do, you just have to be meticulous with keeping oil off the Metal, and follow directions.

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    That entire job turned out just amazing!! Great work! What type of rust blue did you use?? I always had good luck with Dicropan!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al1 View Post
    That entire job turned out just amazing!! Great work! What type of rust blue did you use?? I always had good luck with Dicropan!
    Pilkington's....rather costly, but it worked very well.


    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod9815.aspx

  24. #24
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    I'd use a coat of Pilkingtons first to get a good acid etch on the metal, than use the Dircopan.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al1 View Post
    I'd use a coat of Pilkingtons first to get a good acid etch on the metal, than use the Dircopan.
    I'll have to look into the Dicropan; don't know much about it.

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