My newest builds

[n10sivern]

My new rifle:
Savage large shank flat back short action
Blackhole Weaponry barrel in 300WSM
Rifle Basix Sav 2 trigger
EGW picatinny scope rail
Hogue rubber grip
SSS recoil lug
SilencerCo QD muzzle brake for my Omega suppressor
MDT HS3 chassis
Magpul PRS stock
Every piece was cerakoted by me. The side panels for the chassis and the PRS stock are Cerakoted Magpul Flat Dark Earth and the rest of the stock and chassis plus the entire barreled action was cerakoted Graphite Black



Rifle I helped a friend build:
Savage flat back left handed long action for short action caliber
Boyd's pro varmint stock
Boyd's metal trigger guard and action screws
SSS trigger and recoil lug
EGW picatinny scope rail
Large knob bolt handle from MidwayUSA
Kydex adjustable cheek piece by me
Cerakoted the rifle Sniper Grey and Graphite Black. The stock is Sniper Grey, Graphite Black, and OD Green
Blackhole Weaponry barrel chambered in 260

[hafejd30]

Couple of very nice rigs there. Well done

[Rick_W]

Those are nice!

[n10sivern]

Rick_W, you aren't too far from me. I'm in Biloxi. Oh yeah, Thanks for the compliment.

[Rick_W]

Where do you shoot at?

Hope y'all fared ok with all the weather this morning. I was over on Popps Ferry Road at about 8:00 AM and had water up to the hubs of my Jeep in several places.

[n10sivern]

I'm technically in D'Iberville. I shoot at the Hwy 67 range because it's 10min from my house.

We faired ok with the weather. Lots of rain in a short amount of time today. At 7:30 I saw a compact car flooded in the middle of Sangani Blvd that had water almost up to the door handles.

[scooterf79]

Very nice rigs! Missing targets though 😉
What size kydex did you order? Thickness?
I need to make a cheek rest and was thinking about doing it myself.
Scooter

[n10sivern]

I honestly don't remember. I believe it was 0.08 or 0.09. I got it off amazon a while back

[Mustangrande]

I like it! How are you liking the HS3 chassis?

[n10sivern]

I haven't shot it yet. Just based off design (because I broke it all down to cerakote) there are a few things that need to be changed. Number one is a deeper recoil lug area. The company designed it to work with factory recoil lugs. I'd have to imagine there aren't many stock model 10's being put in the chassis. I had to cut the bottom part off of my SSS recoil lug because it extends further down than factory and the action would not seat in the chassis.

[Mustangrande]

Good to know, thanks.

[scooterf79]

I honestly don't remember. I believe it was 0.08 or 0.09. I got it off amazon a while back

Oh ok....thanks...I think lol
Scooter

[n10sivern]

I dug through Amazon orders. It was 0.08" Kydex

[scooterf79]

Thanks!
Does it seems sturdy enough? Not too flimsy?
Scooter

[n10sivern]

Yes. The .080 is sturdy enough. The 0.092 would work too. It starts getting too thick when you get to 0.1" area, especially for holsters.

[scooterf79]

Oh ok....I was gonna maybe make a cheek piece or 2 for my rifles. I see the kits that all ya have to do is heat it and bend it, but if buying a sheet and cutting is significantly cheaper, then Ill do that.
P.S. just started reading your writeup on the stock from Hades...WOW! Lol
Scooter

[n10sivern]

I only suggest doing the cheek pieces on straight side stocks like the tacticool or pro varmint. It doesn't work well plus is hard to do when one side of the butt stock is angled. Take a pencil and mark the centerline of the top of your stock. Take a piece of paper and fold it in half. Use painters tape and tape the fold on the paper to the centerline on the top of the stock. Take a pencil and mark one side of the paper for the contour you want for the cheekpiece. Take the paper off and with it folded together, cut out the outline. Retape the paper to the stock and check to see if it is what you want. Make sure the bolt will not hit the cheekpiece to chamber another round. You make have to transfer the outline to another piece of paper to make modifications. I usually leave mine where the bold will function but I have to lower the cheek piece to remove the bolt. Once your paper mock up is perfect, tape it to the stock once again. Look at where the flat side of the stock begins to curve at the top of the stock. Figure out where you want your bolts to go and make a mark for each bolt about 1/2" below where it starts to curve. You have now marked the top of your bolt slots. Then under ONE of the top marks make a mark for the bottom of your bolt slot, usually 1.5" or so. Remove the paper, and take a straight edge and draw a line between the two marks for the bolt slot. Then measure distance between the top marks and make a second mark for the other bolt slot at the exact distance. Draw a line between those two marks. You should now have lines for two bolt slots going up and down. Measure out 1/8" on either side of both lines and mark it and draw lines. What you want is two rectangles, 1/4" wide with you original line in the middle (line of rectangle 1/8" on each side of your original lines. Hold up your paper where you can see the lines on the other side through the folded paper and transfer the rectangles to the other side. Now retype to stock and double check for correctness. Place pattern on Kydex and use a pencil and mark paper fold onto the Kydex, this will be the centerline of the Kydex and you will match these marks up to the ones you put on the stock earlier. Tape pattern to Kydex and cut out pattern exactly. Scroll saws work perfect for this. Dremels will work but are sloppy and messy. Once the Kydex outline if cut, place paper on Kydex and tape the entire paper pattern to the Kydex EXCEPT the bolt slots. Place the tape exactly on the edge of the bolt slots but don't cover them. Take a scalpel or knife and cut the paper that is where the bolt slots are. Then cut out the bolt slots in the Kydex. Now remove all the tape. Heat oven to 250 degrees and place Kydex on rack slick side down. Heat for 2-5 minutes until Kydex is pliable, but not shiny. If shiny then the Kydex was overheated. Use some oven mitts and remove Kydex and quickly place on stock. Line in the centerline marks and hold the Kydex against the stock until it has cooled some, about 2 minutes. Just hold into place, no excess downward pressure as that can stretch the Kydex and skew the bolt slots. Then tape the Kydex in several places to hold it against the stock until room temperature. Wrap all the way around the Kydex and stock so it forms correctly. Once cooled, keep it taped. Make a punch mark at the top of each bolt slot on both sides. 1/8" from top and each side. This is where you will drill into the stock with a 1/4" drill bit. Use a drill press if possible, but hand drill will do. Remove Kydex and tape up wood so it doesn't splinter where you drill. Only drill halfway through on each side, hopefully meeting in the middle. Clean up edges on Kydex with a file or lightly with a small sanding flap wheel on a Dremel. Use whatever knobs you wand and 1/4" carriage bolts and you are good to go.

let me know if any of this was confusing.