Over the last two years while trying to get my Model 10 .223 to shoot straight I've learned a lot. Much of it was while reloading to try to find that magic combination of bullet, powder, seating depth, primer, et. al. to produce accurate results. I finally had to give up on the factory barrel and replace it with a custom one. Longer, heavier with a faster twist rate. The factory sporter barrel was 22 inches with a 9 twist. My new barrel is a 26 inch varmint barrel with an 8 twist. That tube is deadly accurate over a broad range of bullet weights.

Brass prep is critical. I bought a Redding case trimmer along with reamer and chamfering tool. I also now use a flash hole uniforming tool on every case. When I reload I take great care in each step in case prep. I full length resize with a Redding bushing die set to bump the shoulder 3 thousands of an inch. Primer pockets are always cleaned out before I seat a new primer to ensure uniform seating depth.

At one point I purchased a digital scale to weigh out my powder charges. I use a Dillon press with a powder measure but have found that charges can vary by quite a bit between each load. The digital scale did not live up to my expectations because there is too much slop when dribbling powder into the pan. I found that the old balance beam that I've had for 45 years gives me the most control of charge accuracy. Now, it is sitting on a shelf at eye level and I weigh EVERY charge and trickle powder to get every single charge exactly like the rest.

I bought a Redding bullet seating die with the micrometer adjustment. I've measured the distance to the lands of the bullets that I use. (75 gr A-Max) I verify the offset from the lands with a Hornady measuring tool so that I know I'm getting consistency.

I learned that it is not always the best decision to try to go for max speed with the heaviest loads. Slow down the bullet a bit and go for accuracy.

My next steps will be to weigh my prepared cases as well as the bullets to get everything to match as closely as possible. Beyond that I may have to buy the tools to turn the necks down. For now I've got what I was looking for. My Model 10 is deadly accurate.

It makes bugholes at 100 yards with 55 gr soft points and it consistently hits milk jugs at 840 yards with 75 gr A-Max. It never misses on rock chucks out to 300 yards. This has been quite a journey and it is now getting fun and exciting.

My thanks to those of you who have answered my newbe questions and given advice. Details matter. I'm not an expert by any measure, but I'm a fairly good study and still learning.