Reply With QuoteSounds like a plan! You "might" run into the nut moving a bit so make it a point to double check the head space. Other than that, go for it..
I'd like to set up an action and be able to switch back and forth between a 7mm rem mag and a 300 RUM barrel. My goal is to be able to set the headspace on each barrel once and just be able to thread/unthread barrels when I want. Would I be able to do this by initially setting the headspace on each barrel with their own barrel nut, and simply locktiting them on?
Sounds like a plan! You "might" run into the nut moving a bit so make it a point to double check the head space. Other than that, go for it..
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
My thought being that If I locktited the barrel nut to the barrel and let it dry before removing it from the action that it would stay "locked" in the same position
Just don't get any lock tight on the portion of threads the will meet with the action threads. Or you may have a more permanent fitting then you are looking for.
Yep it is done quite often. Just make sure you put index marks on the barrel, barrel nut and action. that way you can tell if anything moves and when you switch you always put it back on with the same torque and headspace.
this guy has a unique system. http://www.lprgunsmith.com/index.htm
I am building one now. It is on a laminated benchrest stock. the barrel channel is inletted where there is room for the barrel and glued on barrel nut to unscrew without removing it from the stock or having to remove the scope. I have a portable barrel vice http://www.pmatool.com/barrel-vise-by-viper/ and an through the action action wrench http://www.pmatool.com/panda-and-rem...action-wrench/. with this I put the barrel in the vise and unscrew stock and action from the barrel. Reverse the process to install a different barrel. just takes a few minutes.
Last edited by m12lrs; 04-04-2016 at 06:50 PM.
Put an index mark on your barrel nut, and mark each barrel to the index mark. Less chance of having to apply heat for removal.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Why would.you need to apply heat? You are not going to remove the barrel nut.Originally Posted by Hotolds442
Index the barrel nut and.action to ensure it is installed with the same torque and headspace. Index the glued on barrel nut and barrel to ensure you know if it has moved
And one could ask why use loctite and buy two precision ground barrel nuts?
There are several ways to skin the same cat.
Some require less lightening of the wallet.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
I have a pair of trued barrel nuts already. I was planning on using locktite 680 after doing quite a bit of research to glue the nut on each barrel. My logic is to stamp a line in my pinned recoil lug beneath the stock line. Once headspace is set on the first barrel and locktite is applied and the nut is torqued, I would then index the barrel nut to the lug, and the barrel to the nut. I would then repeat the process for the other barrel/nut combo, using the same stamped line on the recoil lug.
By doing it this way, both barrel/nut combos are indexed together. It also would index the pair of them to the same line on the recoil lug verifying that they are both torqued correctly. The whole way of indexing the parts all together would guarantee if something moved I would see it.
Is my logic correct?
After reading this page:
http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm
From what I can see he's basically doing the same thing. He must have a glued recoil nut, he's just made it easier to change barrels by machining on a hex head on the muzzle to speed up barrel swaps.
The easy way to accomplish this is to thread to a shoulder and throw the nut in the trash.
But then you have to headspace the barrel with a finish reamer.
The.beauty of a savage. No gunsmith
That would also incur extra costs in sending the barrels both out to get machine work done though. By the time I did that I would be better off just buying a donor action and building another rifle.
Your logic is correct, and should provide for easy barrel swaps.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Correct.
Yep. Still the best way to go though if you're having barrels built for a switch barrel. Not cheapest for sure.
It's a Savage SO, it's already a "Permanent switch barrel rifle". Not one of mine is still the original caliber it was born with.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
the savage barrel nut is the shoulder!
I had the same idea, was going to use a permanent glue or even pin the barrel nut. With the index marks the glue is not necessary and you use the same nut. Just have to index mark the barrel carefully, those are fine threads and if the mark isn't precise you could be a turn off.
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