I am with you brotherOriginally Posted by rjtfroggy
lots more satisfaction from my home built rifles than those that a gunsmith built.
Like reloading. Another of my favorite hobbies. finding that load that the rifle really likes is the fun of it
Once I build a rifle and do all the tricks I can to it and find that magic load for it I kind of lose interest in that one and am ready to move on to the next. With a savage just screw on another barrel and start anew.
Certainly not disagreeing with you. However, if you're conscious about your investment and/or future resale value, the point is that there are FAR better options to dump that money into. I love building my own rifles just as much as the next guy, but if you think there's even a chance that you might want to sell that rifle... It just doesn't make much sense to go crazy building a custom Savage.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
AFAIK I'm the "Inventor" of that idea. Why did I conger it up?
1. The amount PE can be corrected only using an allen wrench without measuring and or removing the baffle but once.
2. Its 100% adjustable-reversible for the bolt handle being used, the usual culprit for insufficient PE.
3. It doesn't alter the bolt handle location in the action mortice whereas shortening a bolt body will.
4. The set screws can be adjusted individually so the baffle contacts the bridge square when the PE engages.
As of today there are eight rifles using that mod, two of my own. As a matter of fact I used my spare to fix one at the range but the bum didn't give it back. I had to make another spare!!!
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I bet there are more than that.As of today there are eight rifles using that mod, two of my own. As a matter of fact I used my spare to fix one at the range but the bum didn't give it back. I had to make another spare!!!
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Full custom...hmmm
Well, I started with a savage M11 Trophy Hunter, and ended up with a gun capable of shooting 2000 yards if i so choose.
As of right now, I have a McMillian A5 with Grovtec QD flush cups, badger rail, Limbsaver recoil pad, and triad tactical cheekpad. Very very comfortable stock setup. I currently just use a cheap bipod, as I can decide if I want a harris or a atlas. I might just get both and stick the one I like better on this gun. The stock pack isn't on in the picture because Ive had the bolt in and out quite a bit lately doing some testing. I did all the stock work personally from inletting to bedding, to accessory install. I basically tried to keep it completely my work short of machining on the barrel and action. Stock is bedded with Devcon 10110 with aluminum pillars sunk about .03-.05 under the surface of the action so you cant really see them without looking down through the action bolt holes.
The action has had the lugs and face trued as well as running a savage 1.055 tap through the threads to clean up any gunk (not that it matters that much). Barrel is a 28 inch fluted MTU contour krieger with a APA Fat ******* Gen II brake and a 7mm Sherman Shortmag chambering. I also have a 26 inch heavy varmint Shilen in 308 as a switch barrel that I used this past deer season. After it was all said and done, it cost $150 to have my action trued and the krieger barrel chambered and muzzle threaded. Good thing Im friends with a gun smith... :).
I run a standard savage lug for the 308 bolt face and a magnum lug from PTG. Both have been lapped into the gun. I switched them back and forth very carefully to get 80%+ contact on both lugs. Both lugs were trued up so it took very very little lapping to get that kind of contact on two separate bolt heads without lapping every switch.
I run a PTG bottom metal with either Alpha 10 round mag for the 7mm short mag or a AICS 5 rounder for 308. Not that it matters.
Trigger is stock, but I did quite a bit of work and its perfect for me. Very little travel or creep, but solid sear engagement and Im much better at running shots while pushing hollers because if i get excited, my travel is short enough not to mess up my aim when i squeeze.
I run a TPS steel 20 MOA rail with ARC M10 rings a 6-24x50 Viper PST FFP. I was going to upgrade to a Razor Gen II that I had a super deal on, but it was MOA, not MIL. I dont do MOA simply because I dont like it. Ive got a couple scopes that run MOA. Im use to milrad just from trigonometry and calculus so it just comes easier.
I didn't do any bushing work on the firing pin or get an oversized bolt body and lathe it down because I didn't see it necessary. With some of my high pressure loads however, i see some primer flow back around the firing pin, so i may do the bushing work yet. Depends on how this PTG head performs.
I improved bolt lift as much as I cared too just by lapping the surfaces where things ride. Mainly the cocking ramp and bolt eject assist ramp. Grease these up with Mobil 1 Moly grease and ive had people tell me that bolt is smoother than their custom Remingtons.
Nothing really matters till you get to the end result however. At 867 yards, i had multiple groups under 6 inches with the 308. I will put blame on myself for not doing better. Im not experienced at long range shooting enough to make environmental calls and what not. I only say this because at 100 yards, it can make one hole thats roughly the diameter of a sharpie in 10 shots if I do my part. My reloading calls for weighing and measuring brass and bullets. Powder is dropped and trickled up so ive had good luck so far.
Other than that, I personally love this gun. It just fits me right, but I also built it to fit me. It handles well and shoots good. Im curious to see how itll do with this longer barrel though. 26 inches with a muzzle brake proved to be pretty long during deer season at times. Im worried that 28 inches might be too much. I push a lot of brush and walk quite a bit here in farm country so I guess ill have to wait and see.
Bill. How do you know when primary extraction is an issue. I here everyone talking about it but i still cant wrap my head around it. I understand your mod and am capable of doing that but how would one know where to adjust. The way i see it is to much PE would fight against the bolt lug and could bind. To little and your bolt will stick when pulling back. I could be wrong, i dont have the best understanding of this function of the action. But if i am correct where is the sweet spot? What should happen when set perfectly?AFAIK I'm the "Inventor" of that idea. Why did I conger it up?
1. The amount PE can be corrected only using an allen wrench without measuring and or removing the baffle but once.
2. Its 100% adjustable-reversible for the bolt handle being used, the usual culprit for insufficient PE.
3. It doesn't alter the bolt handle location in the action mortice whereas shortening a bolt body will.
4. The set screws can be adjusted individually so the baffle contacts the bridge square when the PE engages.
As of today there are eight rifles using that mod, two of my own. As a matter of fact I used my spare to fix one at the range but the bum didn't give it back. I had to make another spare!!!
Bill
Very nice rifle, lrshooting!
Though I cannot for the life of me figure out why people like those PTG bottom metals. They are FUG-LY.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Bear with me some, 'tecknickle' writing ain't one of my stronger suits!
Primary extraction is the first step in the extraction process. It initially pulls a case 'loose' of the chamber. The second, moving the bolt rearward.
How much is enough? I don't have an exact spec, but I shoot for something in the .070-.075" range. To check it I use Sharpshooter's method. With the barrel removed make two measurements, the first from the receiver ring to the bolt face with the bolt closed and locked, the second with the bolt unlocked but pushed full forward. The difference between the two is the amount of PE.
A second less accurate but usable method with a barrel installed, with the bolt locked-unlocked as above make the same two measurement from the rear of the front baffle to the back of the loading port. It won't be an exact measurement but will get you in the ballpark.
Yes, there is a window. Too little a case won't be initially pulled loose of the chamber, too much the lugs will still be engaged on the abutments or be on the lead in ramps trying to keep the bolt closed while the PE cam is trying to pull it back, they're fighting each other.
What should happen when its correct and or corrected? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-1ddHYW6wA
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Well, other than the fact that Dave Kiff is a pretty great guy and it cost less than a CDI bottom metal by itself when PTG offered a 5 or 10 round mag package deal, I don't necessarily like it. Im tempted to machine down the edges to give it a little better finish, but the function is flawless
And that's about all you can ask for right? Function always trumps form. I'm just not sure why they'd have made them to look the way they do.
Either way, outstanding rifle. She is a beaut!
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
I built up a semi custom 270 out of a savage 110. McGowan 1/10 22" varmint contour barrel, fish eye fluted bolt, tactical bolt handle, boyds pro varmint stock. Barrel has heavy recessed 11* crown. Factory trigger that has been polished and stoned. Full bedded action. Finish is matte blue.
Thanks for clearing that up bill. I willl look at primary extraction for my rifles and see where they are at.
Lots of good looking builds out there.
lrshooting, you will be fine with 26" inches.
MI223, if you could find a 308FCP, you would be in good shape.
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
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