Savage 10 FCP - SR rear base mounting screw stuck

[cica_trix]

Hi All,
Does anyone know what to do when one of the mounting screws is stuck, I own an Savage 10 FCp-SR (Kryptek version from dicks). I am planning to change the factory base to a 20 MOA base. I am using a Wheeler Accurizing Torque Wrench ,and was able to loosen or tighten the other 3 screws. The last on at the rear would not move, the wrench would just simply turn around either way without loosening or tightening the screw. Any help would be appreciated , Thank you!

[Texas10]

What is meant by "the wrench simply turns either way"?. Is the head of the screw stripped out? Are you using the correct bit, torx vs allen?

If so, and you plan on tossing the mount, and you own a dremel tool (a hack saw will also work), you can use a cutoff wheel to slot the head of the screw (of course, you'll slot the mount too) and use a common screwdriver to remove.

Sometimes you can use a Torx bit in an allen head screw that is stripped with a few taps with a hammer to set it into the stripped head to start.

A judicious application of heat and liquid wrench can also be your friend in getting a stuck fastener released. Especially if locktite was used on the threads.

[Bimmer]

Is the head of the screw stripped out?

If yes, then a left-handed drill bit will usually get it out... or it'll grind off the head of the screw enough that you can remove the mount.

Harbor Freight sells sets of LH bits (for cheap, of course).

[cica_trix]

Thanks guys. I think the head of the screw is stripped out. I am using the correct bit as it unscrews the other 3 screw (all 4 the same size) of the mounting base. I will look into some of your advices. I don't want to damage the base also as I might reuse it, and obviously the receiver.

[Ranch Dog]

If the head of the torx is stripped you can sometime hammer a slightly larger allen head wrench into it. Before I would do that I would heat something like an old screwdriver as hot as I could get it, being careful that you don't burn your hand, and then touch & hold it to the screw head so that the heat transfers to it. This will break the Loctite if that was used. When I bought my 10FCM, a used rifle, all the scout mount screws were locked and the heads stripped. I don't like leaving something like this unfixed. This method and my assortment of metric & SAE allen wrenches did the trick. I had to order the replacement screws from Savage because the scout mount uses some oddball lengths.

[m12lrs]

heat for the locktite

and

https://youtu.be/dbZZFWaIzyU

[GaCop]

Worst case scenario, to remove the buggered screw you'll have to drill out the screw head and remove the remainder of the screw with needle nose pliers once the mount is out of the way.

[Bimmer]

... heat something like an old screwdriver as hot as I could get it, being careful that you don't burn your hand, and then touch & hold it to the screw head so that the heat transfers to it...

No, just use a soldering iron to apply heat...

[Hair_Boxers]

A bit off topic, but why are you loosening fasteners with a torque wrench?

[cica_trix]

Thank guys. My local shop help me out. He basically used the hammering the head to break the loctite method to loosen up the screw. The head of the screw was slightly striped also.

@ Hair Boxers- I was using the Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench to lesson up the screws. If there is a reason not to use it please let me know. Thank you.

[Hotolds442]

Soldering iron is a solid tip, on an unknown rifle it should always be the first step in case the guy before you used loctite. Once the head is stripped though, you're left with one of two methods- the left hand drill bit, or drilling the head off and removing the remaining stud with needle nose or vise grips. Good to see you got it removed.

[Hair_Boxers]

Cica.

Well, IMHO a torque wrench is for precision tightening of fasteners so I restrict mine to that application. Most wrenches will run both directions because there are certainly left hand thread fasteners that need to be torqued.

I figure why risk messing the calibration up when I have plenty of ratchets and breaker bars that work perfectly for removing fasteners.

The situation you define, with a loctited fastener is the type where you could possibly apply more torque than the wrench is designed for inadvertently.