I've been building Savage rifles and switching barrels for some time, using only a barrel vise and a barrel nut wrench, but I decided that the whole process would be improved if I got a rear entry action wrench. I've found two that I'm looking at but if I'm missing a better one please let me know. I already read about making sure the wrench is long enough for long actions, and I assume both of these meet that criterium.
The first one I'm considering is the Bench Source action wrench at Graf and Sons. It comes with it's own crossbar, says it does Remington 700 as well as Savage, and retails for $50 plus shipping (no free shipping to Alaska...).
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog.../productId/176
The other one I'm looking at is the Davidson rear entry action wrench at Sinclair Intl. It requires a hex wrench to turn (not a problem, but it seems like a two sided lever might be easier to keep in line). This one says it is for Stolle and Savage actions, and they have a different model for Rem 700 actions. It retails for $60 plus shipping.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reload/d...le-savage.aspx
I was hoping someone could give me good advice here. I have to wonder why the Bench Source wrench does Rem 700 and Savage actions (preferable, since I own both), whereas the Davidson is NOT specified for Rem 700 along with Savage. The Davidson wrench is more expensive and requires an additional tool to turn it, but if it does a better job with Savage actions then I'd go with it.
Any advise from those who know these wrenches, or maybe an even better one not on my radar?
Originally Posted by AKSavage
I am very interested in this subject too. Building a switchbarrel now on a target action. I want to be able to remove and install barrels without taking the action out of the stock. I have been told that this rear entry barrel wrench will work. I like the hex head. I plan to use a torque wrench anyway. Just haven't seen anything that is absolute yet. Hope you get the answer we are looking for.
http://www.pmatool.com/panda-and-rem...action-wrench/
You've got my interest up too. I'm currently using a barrel vise that I converted to an action vise by modifying the oak blocks to hold my action with the EGW base still installed and a modified action screw hole in the lower block to hold the action from trying to spin. This set up has been working for me for the last 5 years.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
How exactly would using a rear-entry wrench improve the process? You obviously already have the barrel vise and nut wrench, and it takes all of two minutes to swap out a barrel using these tools (add a minute or two and a few curse words if it's the original installed barrel) so what's to improve? You will still need one or both of the aforementioned tools to remove the barrel with the rear-entry wrench so where's the benefit?
The benefit of the barrel vise/nut wrench combo is that it puts zero stress on the action so there is zero chance of twisting it, whereas with an action wrench and/or rear-entry wrench (depending on design) it's quite easy to twist the action if either is used carelessly or improperly.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
For one, I plan to modify a nut wrench (like BillPA did) so I can do the whole barrel swap without taking the scope off every time. An action wrench would be critical for that to work. Second, and almost equal in importance, like GaCopI find that as I tighten down the barrel nut, the barrel itself is held in place by the vise but as the barrel nut comes up against the action/recoil lug, the action tends to turn with the barrel nut, thus throwing the headspacing off. Basically, the barrel nut and action screw themselves down the barrel threads together. The action wrench would be used to hold the action in place while the barrel nut is tightened.
So far I've managed to find ways to hold the action in place long enough until the barrel nut comes tight (padded pliers, etc), but it sure would help to have something to hold the action in place while the barrel nut is tightened down. I suppose I could come up with something like GaCop (see 2 post up) but a rear action wrench seems so much simpler that I'm willing to spend $60 or $70 to have it in my toolbox for the rest of my life.
Since I'm not actually using the action wrench to break the action or barrel nut free, I see about zero chance of twisting the action.
So, back to the original question: Anybody have any advice on the best rear entry action wrench? Or maybe just as important, which to avoid?
my plan is to change barrels without removing the stock. I plan to install the barrel the first time the conventional way with a clamp on action wrench and barrel nut wrench. Once the action/barrel is headspaced I plan to glue the barrel nut to the barrel. That way when you remove the barrel the nut stays in place and your headspacing stays the same. Of course I will put an index line across the barrel nut onto the action for future reference. Afterwards when it is time for a barrel change I put the rifle in a barrel vise, stick the rear entry action wrench into the bolt hole take my torque wrench and loosen the action from the barrel assembly. Installation of the new barrel just the reverse.
of course I will have to inlet the stock enough where there is room to back the barrel and barrel nut enough to unthread the barrel and remove it. Most likely it will always require the removal of the scope. Of course when you change barrels and calibers you will need to sight in again so no real loss there.
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