Reply With QuoteYou have a 50/50 chance of success.....
I need to know which direction to turn the outer sleeve on a factory on/off brake to turn it ON.
It is stuck on a new to me rifle, soaking in Kroil for a while yet, and I don't want to turn it the wrong way. I haven't adjusted one for many many years.
I searched for quite a while for this on the web and here, and never found a definitive answer.
The rather long description down a ways on this page, by AZ_GUN_NUT really doesn't say it clearly enough for me. I can't tell if the counterclockwise / clockwise is meant to be while facing the muzzle or facing the butt of the rifle. Maybe there is one that says it better that I missed?
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...+BRAKE+is+open
You have a 50/50 chance of success.....
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
From the muzzle end, clockwise is "on"
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Thanks a bunch Hotolds442. I have been trying to get find and answer to this for about a week. Now if I can just get it to move. Have been soaking for a week+ in Kroil after a saturation of Wipeout at the outset to dissolve any copper crud in there.
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Quick update
Right after reading your response, I put the brake in an old aluminum AR-15 barrel vise jaw set, fit perfectly on the knurling, no contact on the non moving parts of the brake. Clamped in a big vise, applied about 60 ft pounds of torque - No movement. It didn't slip a bit in the vise jaws.
Applied some heat with a propane torch until it was smoking pretty good then tried again, about 80 ft pounds of torque, no movement. I thought the barrel might come unscrewed but it didn't move either.
Back to soaking I guess. Hopefully I can get this to move before Saturday.
Last edited by geezerhood; 02-18-2016 at 11:23 PM.
Its defiantly right hand treads. If they used lock-tite you may need heat to persuade it to let go.
He's not trying to remove it, he's trying to move it from the off position to the on position. There are no threads involved in that operation. There are no treads either.Originally Posted by ninner
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
I'm thinking that if it is in a vice that might prohibit rotation.....permanently. Got a picture?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
No, the AR-15 barrel vise jaws only make contact with the knurling on the outer sleeve of the brake. I can visually see the non turning front end of the brake floating in the air inside the jaws and the rear portion is outside the jaws.
I have given up on getting this fixed by today. I am reading that it has taken some people several weeks of Kroil / Heat / turn processes before they could get it to move.
There has to be a surface that acts like a bearing with a maximum of .005 clearance otherwise that thing would rattle around like rocks in a coke can. Seems like a vice would close that gap with pinky tight force. That may be the ticket though. Rotate squeeze rotate squeeze.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
So here is a quote from Fred back in 2009, "And now you know why I use a bandsaw.... ;D"
Source: http://www.savageshooters.com/archiv...hp/t-1833.html
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Did you try too soak the break in Seafoam or GM top end cleaner? Could it be carbon fouled? Just thinking out loud.
oh lord here we go again! i had to free up 2 of these sometime last year and it was a pain. i tried finding the thread on this but i'm not to good with the search feature.
i tried soaking the brake in Coleman fuel for 2 full days which seemed to start breaking up the carbon, then somebody suggested i soak it in PB blaster which i did and still couldn't free it up. i even tried using a torch on it and that didn't work so i soaked it again for another day in PB blaster. somebody else suggested putting as large a nail as possible through the holes and grab it with a hammer like pulling a nail. well i heated up the brake once again and tried pulling the nail with the hammer and finally there was some movement! i removed the nail and kept working the brake back and forth and finally it came free. the second time was easier but still a pita!
now when i go shooting i turn that sucker on and off frequently to keep it from seizing up again. so far so good!
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
Thanks all for the new tips on freeing up the outer part of the brake. Going to try some Seafoam....
To restate my need - I do not want to remove it, just free up the moving part so it will be in the open position - closed now, won't turn.
Almost a month of soaking in penetrating oil, heating with a torch, soaking again, lather rinse repeat, bi-weekly --- I was finally able to get the brake turned back on. To get it to move I had to put an action wrench on the action to provide enough torque to break it free.
Thanks for the help.
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