Im assuming its a pre accu trigger model? I have a 110 FP in .308 from 1991 which is similar in all other respects with the 30-06 chambering if I remember correctly.
The rifling should be 1 in 10. I found that my rifle preferred 168 to 175 grain match loads. I handload and have stuck with that same bullet construction for my own loads.
I found that a torque wrench comes in handy with this rifle. Remove the stock and make sure the bedding pillars are still in the stock and the barrel channel is clear then reinstall and tighten and torque to ( I'm not going to supply a ftlb amount. Hand tighten to snug then see what Torque setting its approximately at and go 5 ftlbs over. If you don't have a torque wrench then just don't over tighten. A quarter turn past hand tight). Some more research can get you a range of torque values.
Then get some good copper remover and get at that bore. Consider a JB bore paste and kroil mixture to really get the bore clean. I found my barrel really holds on to copper. My patches would never stop coming out blue when using ammonia based copper removers until I used the JB/ Kroil treatment first. That really took mybore down to steel.
Now as you start shooting make sure your scope is mechanically sound and your mounts and rings are tight. A good strip down, degreasing and remounting won't hurt if your up to that. (Blue loctite or nail polish comes in handy here).
If all is on point the rifle should give you at least 1.5 to 2.0 moa factory stock.. Some of these rifles are great shooters. Mine gave me 1.0 moa after a stock change and a rifle basix trigger install. From your description your weakest link is your scope. GOOD LUCK
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