Model 10 bolt adjustment?

whiskeyloaf · 06-13-2015, 08:49 PM

I was just wondering if anything can be done to make the bolt action more smooth. I love the Remington 700 action, can I get my Model 10 to work like that?

**Bolthead** · 06-15-2015, 11:11 AM

Take your bolt apart and check everything that moves for burrs or any galling. The used 116 I just bought had some serious cocking problems that I was able to clean up by polishing the inside of the bolt tube and the extractor tube, removing some burrs from the hole in the firing pin assembly and cocking button. Made a big difference. It now cocks smoothly like my 111. Due to the design, it is never going to be as smooth as some of the other bolt actions, but if you clean it up and lube with just a light coat of oil, it will help. Especially check the cocking ramp in the bolt body.

**Robinhood** · 06-16-2015, 12:40 AM

The cocking ramp can be smoothed and that helps...if you have the tools to work the hardened metal. A timed and trued action is usually very smooth. I can't help but believe Fred smooths that ramp as well.

whiskeyloaf · 06-17-2015, 08:03 PM

What kind of tools do you need and how do you do that?

**Robinhood** · 06-17-2015, 11:43 PM

After experimenting with a handful of different setups I now use a small Cratex round on a mandrel. I use a drill press and a v block and keep the body on center line with the mandrel, but you can improve things by hand. Do not do much in the pocket were the pin rests when the bolt is lifted. Do not remove a lot of material, just smooth things out. I suggest getting a SSS bolt handle as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dremel-427-Cylinder-Polish-Set-Rubber-Polishing-Points-3-32-034-shank-Mandrels-/321773657474?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

whiskeyloaf · 11-18-2015, 10:53 PM

So I had my gunsmith time and true my gun...now the bolt release is even more stuff than before! Even locking is a little difficult too. It's very frustrating. I also tried polishing the ramp a little, but it didn't help much.
Are there aftermarket bolts I can buy? What else can I do?

**Robinhood** · 11-19-2015, 12:02 AM

He may have tightened the spring too much.

**mudpig** · 11-19-2015, 12:33 AM

Aftermarket bolts:

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/BoltParts.html

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/131-savage-performance

**Bolthead** · 11-19-2015, 09:47 AM

Try it with the action out of the stock. If it makes a difference, the stock is distorting the action.

whiskeyloaf · 11-19-2015, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by Bolthead

Try it with the action out of the stock. If it makes a difference, the stock is distorting the action.

It only happens when there is a round in the chamber...on an empty chamber it is actually very smooth

whiskeyloaf · 11-19-2015, 02:05 PM

With a dummy round it is very smooth too.
Does this lift kit work well? http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/misc-...-lift-kit.html

**Bolthead** · 11-19-2015, 02:41 PM

Have you tried more that one type of ammo? The Savage bolt isn't the smoothest in the world, but if it is working correctly, it is respectable.

**WinnieTheBoom** · 11-19-2015, 03:00 PM

Are you shooting factory ammo or reloading? If you are reloading, there could be a few different problems (indicated in italics), if not, then you can ignore those parts.

Savages are known for sticky bolts to begin with, but a couple things to note:
- Hard bolt closing/locking either means that there's a headspace issue, the case has not been sized correctly, or the round is seated too long.
- Heavy bolt lift/opening of an unfired round could again mean that there's a headspace issue, the case has not been sized correctly, or the round is seated too long.
- Heavy bolt lift/opening of a fired round is due to overpressure, which could stem from a variety of different things. Headspace, hot loads, rounds seated too long, etc.

If you're using factory ammo and you're still experiencing these things, a set of go/no-go gages would mitigate any suspicion of a short chamber/headspacing issue. If you're reloading, make sure that you're setting the shoulders back enough to chamber the case itself, and make sure that you're seating depth isn't too long. If you're not sure about you're seating depth, use a sharpie on the ogive to determine whether or not you're into the rifling.

Finally, there are many variations of bolt lift kits that you can use. It's basically the case head of a .38 special with a ball bearing used in the primer pocket. You'll have to shorten the BAS to really realize the effects of a lift kit, but it should help to smooth out manipulation of your action. If you do all of these things and you're still convinced that it's a heavy bolt lift, either A) go back to a Remington or B) accept that Savages have a slightly heavier lift and deal with it.

whiskeyloaf · 11-19-2015, 06:31 PM

What's BAS and how do you shorten it?

**Robinhood** · 11-19-2015, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by whiskeyloaf

What's BAS and how do you shorten it?

That is the screw that is at the rear of the bolt that captures all of the internals. Unless you have a lathe or something similar don't even try. WinnieTheBoom basically gave you the formula to solve your problem. Don't bypass basic trouble shooting.

With a dummy round it is very smooth too.

It only happens when there is a round in the chamber...on an empty chamber it is actually very smooth

These statements tells you that it is not the Bolt.

**WinnieTheBoom** · 11-19-2015, 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by whiskeyloaf

What's BAS and how do you shorten it?

Bolt Assembly Screw and the easiest way to shorten it would be with a lathe. It's hardened steel, so it's not really something that you can just file down.

**short round** · 11-19-2015, 10:08 PM

If it is only stiff with round in chamber, shoulder of brass may need bumped back or it could be the bullet jammed into the lands. Try piece of sized brass to see how bolt closes, if tight, bump shoulder back. Once you have brass that chambers OK, make up dummy round to your present seating length, see how it chambers, if hard work on seating depth.

whiskeyloaf · 11-19-2015, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by Robinhood

That is the screw that is at the rear of the bolt that captures all of the internals. Unless you have a lathe or something similar don't even try. WinnieTheBoom basically gave you the formula to solve your problem. Don't bypass basic trouble shooting.

These statements tells you that it is not the Bolt.

So it's the headspace?

**Robinhood** · 11-20-2015, 12:17 AM

Are you loading your own or using factory ammo? If loading your own you need to adjust your die. If you are using factory ammo chamber a round and then remove it. Look for scratches on your bullet( the copper part).

Make observations. Rule out one thing then another until you find the issue. Make notes of when it is happening when it is not.

**jonbearman** · 11-20-2015, 03:41 AM

Last chance, are you reloading for it or using factory ammo sir. We need some kind of answer to efficiently help you.

whiskeyloaf · 11-20-2015, 08:50 AM

I've tried 2 different kinds of factory loaded ammo

**WinnieTheBoom** · 11-20-2015, 09:26 AM

I can't imagine that your gunsmith trued the action without checking the headspace, but either take it back to him or get a set of go/no-go gages and check it yourself. It's the only way that you'll be able to tell whether or not it's a problem with the chamber/rifle itself.

Did you purchase the rifle new? What caliber?

whiskeyloaf · 11-20-2015, 12:05 PM

Purchased it new .308. He rebarrelled it with a bull barrel, put new stock on it and new bottom metal. He said the headspace was "perfect".

**Bolthead** · 11-20-2015, 04:06 PM

I second what WinnieTheBoom said. Take it back to the gunsmith and show him what the problem is. Sure sounds like a headspace issue, "perfect" or not.