Neck size VS full lenght

[viper9696]

Ok can someone explain to me why I'm reading all these post from very smart members saying don't
neck size your brass?what are the problems with neck sizing ? I thought brass fired in your chamber will fit your chamber better and there for be more accurate? And I've read that it will cause all kinds of headaches in an AI chamber? But in genral why is full length sizing better?

[bythebook]

Viper9696 it is like you took this question right out of my head ! I hope you get some information.

[dolomite_supafly]

I FL size but I seperate the steps. First I neck size then I size the body. The reason for this is it works the brass less in most cases. The only rifle caliber I shoot is 223.

I used to only neck size but because I owned a few 223's I started FL sizing to make keeping track of everything easier. Both my Savage and my AR liked the same load using a 69 grain SMK, same charge weight, same primer. The only difference is the seating depth between the two. My Savage liked 2.43" COAL with the SMK's but the AR needs to be factory length to work in a mag. I loaded everything at the 2.43" length and if I wanted ammo for my AR I just went back and seated the bullets deeper.

I have had issues where only neck sizing caused problems with chambering so that is the biggest reason I started FL sizing as well. Not big issues but as I said it makes it easier to load when everything can be the same.

Dolomite

[Nor Cal Mikie]

When you "full length" resize your brass, you're moving the metal around more than you really need to. You guys are talking about .223 caliber. Most of that stuff is "real easy" to come by.
If you load for a "gas gun", full length resizing is almost a must. (I've necked sized and shoulder bumped for my M1A with no problems because I know what I'am looking for. Slam fires are nothing to play with.)

When you fire a round, the brass fire forms to the chamber. If that fired piece of brass will fit back in the chamber with no extra bolt resistance, you can neck size it. After a few firings, the brass will not spring back like it did after it was fired the first couple of times and you'll get resistance when closing (and opening) the bolt. That's when you need to bump the shoulder and body size.
I work with 6 and 22 BR brass that has been fired up to 15 to 20 times. I neck size and bump the shoulder back maybe .001 to .0015 if needed. The bolt closes easy and there's no resistance on opening. The more you move the brass material around the shorter it's life span is.
If you neck size, sooner or later the body will need to be pushed back to it's original size. Might be 3 or 4 firings, depending on how hot your loads are. That's the time to run it through a body die.
Everybody is different so it's up to you to decide how you want to work your brass. Hope this didn't sound like preaching. Mike.

[Quickshot]

+++ dolomite, I only shoot 223 & 17 rem. I have 3 223s. For a long while I have neck sized only after an initial full sizing. Let me tell you, you must be on your toes at all times when handling the brass and loaded rounds. Each of the three chambers are different. The Ruger #1 absolutely will not chamber a round fired in either Savage. Tried to force one once and ended up having to drive it out. [first mistake,owning Ruger#1] Since I sometimes have a senior moment now and then I've decided to commence full sizing my 223 brass, just to be sure. 223 brass is not as expensive as a screw up could be. Be careful, Quick

[Hammer]

.

Back in the days of yore when dinosaurs roamed the earth...

All benchrest competitors neck-sized only with special dies that did not use a reloading press.

More recently, some benchrest shooters have full-length sizing dies made up for their specific rifle's chamber and full-length size their brass.

.

[dolomite_supafly]

+++ dolomite, I only shoot 223 & 17 rem. I have 3 223s. For a long while I have neck sized only after an initial full sizing. Let me tell you, you must be on your toes at all times when handling the brass and loaded rounds. Each of the three chambers are different. The Ruger #1 absolutely will not chamber a round fired in either Savage. Tried to force one once and ended up having to drive it out. [first mistake,owning Ruger#1] Since I sometimes have a senior moment now and then I've decided to commence full sizing my 223 brass, just to be sure. 223 brass is not as expensive as a screw up could be. Be careful, Quick

That is the reason I started FL sizing everything. I too have my moments, age and a few other things are creeping up on me. The issue I was talking about was pretty much the same thing you are talking about. I wasn't paying attention and seated some bullets deeper in the case to use in my AR. I thought they had been FL sized but it turned they had only been neck sized after being shot in my Savage. I tried to chamber the rounds in my AR and needless to say they got stuck. It took a little bit of work to clear it but I learned my lesson. After that I started FL sizing everything to avoid any more problems and since starting the practice I haven't had an issue.

I don't neck size anymore and the firearms are still as accurate as before. I was trying the neck sizing thing to try to get more accuracy out of my guns but honestly I didn't see any difference for whatever reason. For me I believe the accuracy in my guns has more to do with how far the bullet is off the lands. The rounds that were loaded at 2.43" were all FL sized and all I would do is seat the bullets deeper for use in the AR.

Since the incident I pulled that 223 barrel from my Savage and installed another caliber but I still have to FL size for the AR. I do plan on getting another 223 barrel for the Savage, just longer. I will still continue to FL size when I get the new barrel just because it makes it easier to keep track of for me.

Not to sidetrack but what didn't you like about your #1? I have been debating on buying one for a little while now so any info you could pass along would be great.

Thanks
Dolomtie