Reply With QuoteYou need to feed the brass slower and pull back slower.
I am new to neck turning. I use a k&m tool and a cordless screwdriver, about 300 rpm. I am getting very rough necks when I turn the brass. I have tried going slow, have tried hand turning, have tried steel wool, tried putting the neck turner in a vice rather than holding both parts and I still have ridges on the necks that catch a fingernail. I know this is no good.
Any suggestions? Tricks of the trade? I am turning lapua brass (.260) from .0155+\- .005 to .014-.0145. I would like them to be .0145. Using k&m expanding iron, cut to length, imperial wax on the neck turning mandrel and inside the case neck. I am still just trying to get clean cuts before I get real picky about it the dimensions.
You need to feed the brass slower and pull back slower.
Thanks. I guess i just need to get the feel for it. I may need some more guidance if I can't make it acceptable because right now it is unshootable.
might try turning in stages. Take a little off, then reset your tool and take the final cut on the neck for a nice clean cut.
Take a lighter cut. 0.005 is a big cut. Start with about 0.001 cut to get necks same thickness & the less taken off on final pass the smoother the neck will be.
i agree with what you guys are saying but i turn my necks to what the OP is and i take it in one pass.
B speed your drill up just a little if you can(you can borrow mine if you need to)i turn at 400rpms and feed the brass slow and pull off slow...going on slow cuts it pulling off cleans it up...your brass isnt going to be PERFECTLY smooth but after you fire and size once it will be...its supposed to rain saturday so i could come it or you could come out and ill help you get your tool set up.
I reread the OP's post and I think he meant to say .0005 per side. He might be missing a 0 in the mix.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I will try again tonight, with higher rpms, and see if that helps. If not I will probably call to set up a tutoring session. I could be being too picky, but the videos I have seen make it look to easy to screw up. Granted they all have built stands to both the drill and the tool.
How much clearance between the turning mandrel and the case neck?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
yeah i think so but try turning just a bit faster and feed and pull slower...you want the tool and or drill to float so dont try to hold it stiffly just kinda let it do its thing.Originally Posted by schnyd112
he needs right at 0.014 to 0.0145 so the necks will equal .293 when loaded...hes running a tight neck(.296)chamber 260rem...hes worse of a perfectionist than me i think LOL!
Last edited by LongRange; 01-26-2016 at 06:56 PM.
also its actually kinda hard to screw up neck turning...the two things you can screw up is taking to much off the necks and cutting to deep into the shoulder.
Any chance cutter is installed backwards?
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No the blade is threaded on one end.
I think I have the mandrel set right where it needs to be, just below the neck, and I am close to the thickness I want. I just am dumbfounded by how rough they are. Like I said I could have been expecting too much and they just need to be shot/sized to iron the imperfections out. I will try again tonight. I tried not actually chuck the case holder to the drill. I used a socket that still turns it, but is a little loose to "float" he shell holder. When I did this they came out better, but still not what I was expecting. I will try and post pictures but taking up close photos is brass is kinda tricky with a phone camera.
They are not going to be smooth like an unturned piece but they shouldnt be like the tread on a bolt.
You are turning them clock wise right?
Yes clockwise. Like turning in a screw.
yeah they should be smoother than that and the cut into the neck needs to be deeper...let me know if you can meet up this weekend and well get that straightened out for you.
So they are looking pretty good now. These are a progression from left to right. The left most was the first one I did, the right is how they are coming out now.
your golden...they look better than mine but i still dont think your into the shoulder enough...bring a couple to work with you next week and give me a call on your lunch and ill meet you...did you speed up a little and feed them slower?
How much clearance between the turning mandrel and the case neck?
If he has .014 to .014.5 between the case and the mandrell this is a problem. It should be less than .001
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Between the neck and the mandrel there is almost zero clearance. As in, there is no way to measure that. I expand with a k&m expander built for this mandrel.
Yeah i sped up a little, and fed slower. Just trying to get it consistent now. I have some dummies loaded up for Jack, but am still trying to get consistency from case to case. It seems to be easier to mess up the less I cut, the ones there are .290 diameter loaded which is not enough. I have it now cutting to .014, but I am back to rough cuts. I am going to go look at a new power tool today, mine may just have too much runout. It has a pretty good wobble to it. I will bring cases with me, and show you what is going on. This weekend got busy in a hurry, landlord wanted to come by, birthday party tomorrow, and we are watching my girlfriends sisters poodle. He's a little punk.
can you explain a little more I'm not understanding the .001?
.292 is about a small as you want your loaded necks...and something funny is going on because I turn mine with one pass and they come out clean...bring your tool next week to I'd like to look at it.
a punk poodle lol...worse than baby sitting a kid.
Never mind I get what your saying now...I was thinking the blade and the mandrel.
I knew that good buddy. I just wanted you to know I was paying attention! Have a good weekend and may the sun always shine and the breeze be light.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Hey B measure your expander and your mandrel when you get a chance...mine is .264 and .263 Robinhood may be on to something here.
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