Reply With QuoteBy steel balls are you referring to galling? I recently took mine apart so learn me yoda.
I pulled apart my newest Axis today and was astonished by how few steel balls I found in the threads. There are some under the front of the barrel nut, but the shank and receiver threads were relatively clean. I acquired it in Fall 2015 and wish I could tell what year this rifle was made, but the Savage site says it can't find the serial number.
Speaking of serial numbers, this one is raised as opposed to being etched. Curiouser and curiouser.
By steel balls are you referring to galling? I recently took mine apart so learn me yoda.
Yeah, you're right about that.
Nothing like a clean shank.
In the last year, one I bought and took apart had the threads of the nut & shank packed with little steel balls. I was able to break the nut loose then spent 2 hours slowly working the nut off the barrel. 1/2 turn back, 1/2 turn on.... 3/4 turn back, 1/2 turn back on. After getting the nut off the barrel I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the threads out.
A simple 30 minute barrel change took 3-1/2 hours.
2 others I bought were not as bad. I was actually able to remove the nut with minimum cursing.
Do you sometimes wonder if they do that on purpose?
PS - Russ: It's the little steel balls from bead blasting that Savage leaves behind for us to deal with. Keeps our lives interesting and gives us something to discuss (and complain about) here...
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Yep. Lately I am having a lot of trouble removing barrels from new actions. I finally broke down and bought a barrel vise and new styled nut wrench from Dennis' new endeavor, "Accurate Barrels, Stocks and Accessories".
Makes a BIG difference. I don't think I could have removed some of them without it. So far I haven't needed any rosin for the barrels and the wrench does not damage the smooth nuts, they can even be re-used if you want to do so... Also, the notched nuts don't get scuffed at all either.
Dennis wrench: http://myaccuratebarrel.com/NEW-DESI...tion_p_34.html
Wheeler vise: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/226...-wood-bushings
I just had a bear of a time getting my barrel off my LWH. It's like they packed mind with steel bb's before they put my barrel nut on
Last edited by futurerider103; 01-31-2016 at 12:39 PM.
^ I'm getting it now. Removal of my 300wm barrel was tough. Smooth nut and all I bought the grooved precision barrel nut, action wrench and recoil lug from northland shooters supply. No bbs inside but i had to use the wrench more than I thought I would. Even after it was loose.Originally Posted by futurerider103
That smooth nut thing is another story. Nothing like taking a perfectly good design and screwing it up. Reminds me of something the US Gov't. would do.
If you do any amount of barrel swapping it does teach you to make sure you have 3 or 4 extra barrel nuts on hand.
Also, If you do any barrel painting or coating, the old smooth nuts come in handy as a thread protector. Use it with generous amounts of masking tape...
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
I personally like the smooth nut better. I just wish they came off easier
Last edited by futurerider103; 02-01-2016 at 12:17 AM.
Well the only way i have found to remove and reinstall smooth nuts is with Dennis' new wrench. Everyrhing else i have tried damaged the nuts or just did not work.
On my last .308 build I took mine of with big channel locks with wood between the jaws. It was tight but came of
I'm glad that Dennis' wrench works. I'd just written smooth nuts off as a loss when rebarreling, which was one of the reasons I like Axises.
It looks like they may have stopped using the "thread locker"? Next time I get a used rifle that I suspect may have it, I'm going to start with a hair dryer, then a heat gun, before going to the propane torch, to see just how much heat is needed to help the nut break loose. The last 3 Stevens 200's I broke down, I went straight to the propane, and the gunk bubbled up from the nut. When the barrel was off and the nut cooled, it stuck right back to the threads again, and needed to be heated again to get it off the barrel. Then, I needed to soak the barrel in solvent and wire brush the gunk out of the threads.
It could be that since barrel nuts are becoming more popular on most rifle brands, Savage may have stopped with the "thread locker", and that's OK with me. If not, I still have my "Blue Wrench" ;-))
I use a strap wrench to reinstall a smooth barrel nut. The strap wrench won't remove one though. I like the looks of the smooth nut, but it is a bugger to remove.
if you take the barrel nut off and put a new barrel on is that it? your done and have a new caliber?
As long as you headspacing it and the magazine follower is correct for the new round
And corresponding bolt head for the new caliber, if applicable.
PS - Sometimes the follower will work even if it's a different caliber / configuration. It depends on how creative you want to be....
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks