I have a Stevens 200 in 300 Win Mag with a 24" sporter weight barrel? I want to run a muzzle brake and suppressor on it. Has anyone had one of these sporter barrels threaded 5/8x24 before? Is there enough steel to thread it correctly?
Don't think there's going to be enough meat there for 5/8x24. Besides, putting more mass on the end of an already thin barrel can't be too good for accuracy. I know some guys that run clamp on brakes with sporter barrels, but I've never seen one with a suppressor on it. Gotta think that it'd look pretty goofy too.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Thanks for the reply. I thought the same but figured I'd ask. I am not particularly recoil shy but this gun weighs in at about 8 lbs. with scope. This will be just the excuse I need to build that long range gun with threaded barrel.Originally Posted by WinnieTheBoom
I owned that same barrel, 300wm 24" and like .56" at the muzzle. It was one kicking SOB.
If it's any consolidation, a 26-27" and magnum or varmint contour (.7-.8" at the muzzle) tames the recoil quite a bit, it's like a new gun
I haven't ever tried to thread a sporter at full length, and it may be doable, but I have cut down a 22" sporter in .308 to 16" for a general purpose carbine build and had it threaded 5/8x24 for a brake without issue.
As far as accuracy and velocity no worries there either. The accuracy and velocity I'm getting with the short barrel must be very very boring because the bucks hit with it just lay right down for a long nap in the leaves.
I like the contour and absolutely love the way the rifle handles now. This is how it looks with a brake on it. I would think with a 24" you could probably find sufficient meat on it before getting quite as short as mine.
I do know Savage threads the 26" Long range hunters for their AK brake(24" of barrel and 2" of brake =26" barrel), though not 5/8x24, as well as shorter sporters also for the AK (adjustable) brake so I'm thinking there is enough meat, just maybe a little taper that may have to be blended.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Could possibly thread 1/2" or 9/16" instead. Silencerco Harvester will take several adapters for various threads.
I hesitate to cut a 300 Win Mag down from 24". I believe the velocity reduction would be more than I am willing to sacrifice.
I haven't ever tried to thread a sporter at full length, and it may be doable, but I have cut down a 22" sporter in .308 to 16" for a general purpose carbine build and had it threaded 5/8x24 for a brake without issue.
As far as accuracy and velocity no worries there either. The accuracy and velocity I'm getting with the short barrel must be very very boring because the bucks hit with it just lay right down for a long nap in the leaves.
I like the contour and absolutely love the way the rifle handles now. This is how it looks with a brake on it. I would think with a 24" you could probably find sufficient meat on it before getting quite as short as mine.
I do know Savage threads the 26" Long range hunters for their AK brake(24" of barrel and 2" of brake =26" barrel), though not 5/8x24, as well as shorter sporters also for the AK (adjustable) brake so I'm thinking there is enough meat, just maybe a little taper that may have to be blended.
My suppressor is a Silencerco Omega. I suppose there would be adapters for that as well.
I might just live with it as it sits. My B&C stock forend is too narrow to modify for a varmint contour barrel. Heck, I had to widen the channel just to fully float the sporter barrel. Years ago I had a Winchester Model 70 stainless classic in .300 Weatherby that was about the same weight. It was a beast to shoot, but I got used to it. Maybe I should just sell this and put that $$ towards another build?
In the past I've had good luck running 1/2x28 on 30 cal's, I even threaded a Hi-point carbine and opened up an AR flash hider to 9mm. My only question about an adapter from 1/2 28 to 5/8 24 would be structural stability. Just a little bend and you could send things downrange. I've never done it but I suppose a bushing could be built that go straight from one to the other with a shoulder built on to tighten the suppressor against. All you would need is to locktite the bushing on and it would be good to go. If I get a chance to put in any lathe time this weekend I ll try to build one.
Never mind they are readily available on Amazon for <$20.
http://www.amazon.com/JMPF-2x28-8x24...5+8+24+adapter
Last edited by ninner; 01-11-2016 at 10:42 PM. Reason: added link
was going to suggest this exact thing - cut it down to a point where there is enough wall thickness for what you want.I haven't ever tried to thread a sporter at full length, and it may be doable, but I have cut down a 22" sporter in .308 to 16" for a general purpose carbine build and had it threaded 5/8x24 for a brake without issue.
As far as accuracy and velocity no worries there either. The accuracy and velocity I'm getting with the short barrel must be very very boring because the bucks hit with it just lay right down for a long nap in the leaves.
I like the contour and absolutely love the way the rifle handles now. This is how it looks with a brake on it. I would think with a 24" you could probably find sufficient meat on it before getting quite as short as mine.
I do know Savage threads the 26" Long range hunters for their AK brake(24" of barrel and 2" of brake =26" barrel), though not 5/8x24, as well as shorter sporters also for the AK (adjustable) brake so I'm thinking there is enough meat, just maybe a little taper that may have to be blended.
I've been thinking about cutting my Stevens 200 308 down to either 18 or 20 and having a muzzle brake put on......
Why not thread it to face up against the end of the muzzle rather than a shoulder.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Can you explain this a little further? Not sure I understand.
In this case you would cut the threads on the barrel long enough for the end of the barrel to bottom out in the brake instead of the shoulder on the barrel.
Another thing I've done is apply red loctite 271 and index it where it needs to stay, no shoulder needed of course you have to apply heat if you ever want to unscrew it this stuff wont let go until it hits 500 F.
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