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Thread: Cases splitting....ideas

  1. #1
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Cases splitting....ideas


    So..since hunting season is over I'm trying to get re-started on some of my projects. First and foremost is my Remage 6x55.
    Ive fireformed some brass and did some velocity checks on formed cases. I still have some speed checks to do with another bullet.
    When I was checking things out today I noticed my cases mouths were a little angled. No big, trim them. These were on the cases I still needed to do speed checks on specifically. (Fireformed ones too but these arent the problem).
    So I pulled the bullets, trimmed them, chamfered them lube inside neck and case. When I went to resize them they split. I did 3, and they all split.

    I got a little frustrated and popped one that had only been fireformed. Same routine, trim, chamfer, lube. Resized just fine, no cracks splits or anything.

    So....I had some empties I had done speed workups on. Deprime, trim, chamfer, lube, size.....no problems.
    I'm just curious as to why these are splitting. Im thinking I may just go ahead and shoot them for as speed workups and no pull them apart since Ive already ruined 3 cases.
    Any input or ideas, appreciated!
    Thanks!
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  2. #2
    Team Savage stomp442's Avatar
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    Might try some dry neck lube on your cases before you re-size and see if that helps anything. That's kind of a weird split I have never encountered that before. Might try disassembling the dies and giving them a good cleaning too.

  3. #3
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    I have yet to lose a case in the 6x55. I have had similar failures in the 6.5 WSM, always on brass that hasn't been annealed after case forming.

    Take some measurements:

    1. Case neck OD loaded round.
    2. Case neck OD after firing.
    3. Case neck OD after sizing with the expander plug removed.
    4. Case neck OD after sizing with the expander plug installed.
    5. OD of a can of Coors light. You will need to empty this can during 1-4, it must be empty to ensure there's no stretch due to contents.

    Lets see how much you're overworking your brass.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  4. #4
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    My guess is because it has gotten brittle, try annealing.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkker View Post
    My guess is because it has gotten brittle, try annealing.
    Exactly. If it hasn't been annealed since it came out of the shiny blue Lapua box, chances are good it's been worked enough to become brittle. It's possible it's being overworked during the resizing process, if so, we can eliminate some of it, but the brass will still need to be annealed.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  6. #6
    LongRange
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    im with HO442...over worked and under annealed...also take a fired case and try sliding a bullet into the neck and let us know if the bullet slides easily into the fired neck.

  7. #7
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  8. #8
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    So.....is anyone here thinking my brass needs annealed? Lol.
    Ill anneal them tomorrow or Wednesday, and get those measurements and post them.
    Should I have annealed them after I sized them down from 6.5 prior to fireforming?
    Thanks for the input guys.
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  9. #9
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterf79 View Post
    So.....is anyone here thinking my brass needs annealed? Lol.
    Ill anneal them tomorrow or Wednesday, and get those measurements and post them.
    Should I have annealed them after I sized them down from 6.5 prior to fireforming?
    Thanks for the input guys.
    Scooter
    Short answer to the last question is yes, but only because I think your resizing gear might be slightly off, hence the measurement request. I didn't need to anneal mine because everything was dialed in due to my need to turn the necks. I knew what my diameters needed to be before I even started. I annealed after fireforming and then after every 3 firings.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  10. #10
    Basic Member eddiesindian's Avatar
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    yep...too much movement on the brass that's no longer maluable. I think you may have insufficient lube issues as well. Maybe take the die apart and have a close look at the expander ball. Make sure die is adjusted correctly.
    Ive been using Hornady One Shot case lube and Im glad I did. Excellent dry case lube.
    Life is tuff.....its even tuffer when your stupid
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  11. #11
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Ok....heres what I came up with today
    1: OD case neck loaded round. .275
    2: OD case neck fired round .278
    3: OD case neck sized case with expander removed .262
    4: OD case neck sized case with expander installed .273
    5: OD of Coors empty Coors can... I dont drink so I used a water bottle instead....2.035 😉.
    LR I took a fired case and a bullet went in and out of the case easily.
    As far as lube, Im using Imperial sizing wax, seems to be really good stuff, so I dont think thats an issue.
    Dan, I had Jim to do this in a no-turn neck chamber....just an FYI.
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  12. #12
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Im not sure what you're using for a sizing die, but I'd look at getting a bushing die with a .272 bushing and using your .273 expander. You'd be working that brass a lot less.
    All of your other numbers look good.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  13. #13
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Thanks Dan,
    Im using a standard redding 6br die.
    Ill check into the bushing die.
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  14. #14
    LongRange
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    .275 down to .262 then back to .273 is a lot of working...id anneal every second firing.

    also if you can have the neck of the die honed to about .271 or so that would save a lot of over working of the necks..or if its a bushing die get the appropriate size bushings.

    HO442 types WAY faster than i do LOL.
    Last edited by LongRange; 01-05-2016 at 05:48 PM.

  15. #15
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Just wanna make sure my brain is processing this right. I know Im going down to .262. With a .272 bushing, my cases would only be going down from .275 to .272, and then back to .273?
    If thats it then Im good on the info.
    Another question....should I just go ahead and get the FL die as opposed to the neck die?
    Thanks guys
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  16. #16
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    That's what I did, not saying it's right or wrong.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  17. #17
    LongRange
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    i personally prefer to FL size every time but i set my die to just set the shoulder back enough so i have a sung fit...also just a tip...liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol is the best case lube ive ever used and very easy to clean off you cases(12 to 1 mix is perfect)and dry graphite for the necks.

  18. #18
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip LR, Ill look into that and mix some up.

    I ordered a bushing die today and ordered the .272 bushing....Ill update this post when it comes in.
    Thanks for the help guys!
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  19. #19
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Hopefully it all works out for you. I know I'm extremely happy with mine!
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  20. #20
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Thanks Dan.
    This project has been quite a more involved than I figured it would be, but Ive learned alot.
    Im excited about the cartridge, I think its really promising.
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  21. #21
    mugsie
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    Looks to me like work hardening of the brass. Either anneal or toss em'. the walls of the cases look a little funky as well.

  22. #22
    Basic Member 750k2's Avatar
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    If funds permit make the jump to hand dies (wilson) and a bump die.
    Only work the brass the absolute minimum and ammo is head and shoulders above press ammo.
    I still use my presses sometimes but hand dies are my preferred tools.
    Between them and propane I lose very few cases now.

  23. #23
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Die came in today....


    First time Ive ever used bushing dies, Ive always used standard dies for everything....well until the last few days....wow! Im not trying to state the obvious but theres a world of difference in sizing and forming cases now!
    Thanks for all the input and help guys! So the brass has been annealed and sized with the new die.....
    Hopefully Ill get out to shoot in the next several days....
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  24. #24
    txnintn
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    Scooter,
    I also have a 6mm-6.5x55 wildcat and I have had a similar issue.
    It has happened a couple of times to me when using a neck bushing sizer after two or three reloads. It just rips the whole neck off. I also have had one with a vertical split after firing a load.

    So after I finish forming new brass cases and it's ready for fire forming, I anneal the cases. It has not happened since. I keep anneal them often!

    Bowen
    6mm Phoenix

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