Reply With QuoteI highly advise you never go "nutless". :)
Can I run nutless on a 1.250" shank barrel blank for a large shank action? Looks the tenon will be around 0.130" left after the large shank threads are cut. Is that enough or do I need to use the nut?
Last edited by junkout; 12-23-2015 at 11:50 PM.
I highly advise you never go "nutless". :)
You can but head space will have to be set by your smith.
Thanks for the advise. But my question was is it possible..... Meaning will there be enough tenon to go without the nut.
Longrange ..... A Smith is building it for me. I bought the barrel to go on a small shank but after advisement I went to the large shank action for the 338 ultra mag.
If I'm not going to have enough meat for the shoulder then I'll go with the nut.
Zombie kill of the week!Originally Posted by dpollard
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
Certainly. It will have a shoulder the same a Remington 700 for example instead of the nut that's all.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Bill.. So your saying .065" is enough for a tenon/shoulder to mate up against the action? I feel that I'm getting blanket answers to my question without any depth. Maybe this isn't the forum to ask a serious question? As others have stated on different forums. For the serious replies I say thank you. .
.130 should be enough shoulder. Your gunsmith will most likely advise you if he feels otherwise.
Yes you will have more than enough.
Thank you gbflyer. I was doing the math and it didn't seem like much. If it wasn't I needed to order a nut before taking it to the Smith is why I'm asking.
Good deal! It's going to the Smith and will be done by the 11th. Thanks again for the reassurance
Just curious why are you not using the nut?
Weight for one trying to build a medium weight rifle. And I've never had a true custom gun built. I've built up several savages and it's my preferred weapon when shooting. Wanted something different so when I kick their ass at a grand and they ask is that a Remington? Why no its a Savage... Why do you ask? LOL
It might be the last rifle I build without a nut but I had to try it.
Please understand, this is the "Brotherhood of the Barrel Nut"! ;-))
If I were going to do what your doing, a custom shouldered barrel, I would have 6 "flats" milled on the end of the barrel so a socket could be installed and "You" would still have a switch barrel set up. If you're going to use a break, it could still be done, you would just need a deep well socket.
Then you would "really" have talking points with the guys at the range!
How's that for "enabling"? :-)
Please let us know how your build goes...Thanks...Jim :-)
gotcha...keep us posted im curious to hear how it turns out.
are you going to run a 1.250 straight taper?
The barrel is a benchmark lightweight Palma fluted. Should finish up around 28" long with .750" at the muzzle. Stainless action Bell&Carlson stock blind magazine.
Leupold mark4 6.5-20x50mm thinking of using a 40moa base. I know it's not much weight loss but I'm replacing the action bolts and the bas with titanium. The bolt handle will also be ti. Parts are at the Smiths now he said it will be done by the 11th. Thanks again for all the useful input.
I did not notice anyone stating that the shoulder on the barrel will have roughly .065 shoulder. Slim
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
That's the question I asked robinhood... If a 65 shoulder is slim what is standard?
It is done and I would guess it has been done many times. Several well known manufacturers that have factory barrels shouldered to a recoil lug or action have threads in the 1.06 range with the barrel OD being 1.25 leaves .090 roughly. About 150% of what your planning. It cost more but I would consider a larger, as in custom size blank for a barrel shouldered to the recoil lug with a large shank action . It is not a deal breaker though and I would be interested in the opinion of someone like Fred. The recoil lug is possibly a llittle smaller than the 1.350 action as well so matching the recoil lug radius is about the best you could do.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
The barrel is going to tighten up and stop in the same place with a .065 or a .090 shoulder
Jack
I have installed a shouldered barrel on a large shank savage action with a 1.20" Magnum Research carbon fiber barrel. It has worked fine for years. No issues. If given a choice I'd do a barrel nut every time where possible.
Thank you for the direct answers to my question. I may regret not doing the nut in the long run. The action could be used for other calibers but the 338 rum pretty much fills the bill. I have several smaller caliber savages with the nut still in tack. Smith said there would be any problems with the 1.25" tennon.
If I had initially ordered the barrel for a large shank it would of been bigger no doubt. Thanks again for the help
Big Debra is back from the Machinist. Getting her ready for bedding. Still waiting on the 40moa rail to be delivered. Excuse the mess my shop is getting a makeover.
Looking good
A shooting report will be required
Jack
Good lookin rifle!Big Debra is back from the Machinist. Getting her ready for bedding. Still waiting on the 40moa rail to be delivered. Excuse the mess my shop is getting a makeover.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
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