Reply With QuoteWhat kind of shooting? If you plan on hunting any medium size game I would go with the .260. After all its a true 6.5 caliber.
If you were to buy a rifle for a future build either in 6.5 creedmoor or .260 (shoot as is for now) which would be the better choice as far as stock options and parts availability, or maybe they're the same idk ( new to savage) Choices are 11 trophy hunter package in .260 $489 minus the rebate, or the cabelas 12fv in 22-250 $419 since that's the only caliber they have in stock that has the right bolt face.
What kind of shooting? If you plan on hunting any medium size game I would go with the .260. After all its a true 6.5 caliber.
I have a 260 rem. barreled with a McGowen barrel that shoots better than all the
other rifle i own.. Another big plus is you can use 243 and 7m-08 brass. It will take
out any medium size game in the world... 260 !!!!!
It will be used for paper punching or steel ringing out to 800yrds and hunting nothing bigger than a whitetail.
No matter which caliber I buy right now, it will eventually get rebarreled to a .260 or creedmoor. My question is which of the 2 models I listed would you choose as your platform for availability of aftermarket stocks and such or are they both the same? As I said I am new to savage and don't know the good, bad, or indifferent between these two models.
U could hunt bigger, the bullets won't bounce off zee animals,Originally Posted by live2hunt24
any 6.5 is good, look at brass source and/or factory ammo to your choice if you don't reload.
I would vote for 260.
newbie from gr, mi.
The actions are the same. Go with either the cartridge you prefer or the cheapest.
Rick_W
CPO-USN(Ret)
You don't know what you don't know.
The .260 and 6.5 Creedmoor are about as close as you can get performance-wise. They're the same in a lot of ways. Both like to be seated long, both will give you about the same velocity, tons of bullet selection, tons of factory ammo, both sufficient for long-range shooting and for taking any mid-sized game to probably 4-500 yards.
My preference is the .260 in a bolt gun as I can get Lapua brass relatively easily for it, whereas the 6.5 Creedmoor is proprietary to Hornady, meaning that you can only use Hornady brass (unless you want to get busy resizing .308 brass). In a gas gun, however, the Creedmoor gets the nod as it doesn't need to be seated as long as the 260. It's really just a matter of preference.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
If I understand what I've been reading, the 12fv will have more options for stocks since it is top bolt release and blind mag v.s. the trophy hunter having the plastic DBM and bottom bolt release. As well as the 12fv has the slotted barrel nut v.s. smooth on the trophy hunter. So the cabelas gun may be the better build platform. Or am I wrong?
If you're looking at the trophy hunter package in 260, why not pick it up in 6.5 creedmoor and shoot it til the barrel is dead? The bottom bolt release only affects your stock choices slightly, and if you're confident you can usually fix the in letting on a top bolt release stock to fit the bottom bolt release. Only real difference you run into is the barrel nut, which is easily replaced the first time you swap the barrel. Plus with 6.5 creedmoor over 260 you get reasonably priced quality factory ammunition.
No gun shop anywhere near me has a creedmoor and can only find one .260. The girlfriends hunting rifle is a .308 so brass is easy to come by for the .260.
I think you answered your question the 12fv. Why top bolt release, gives you more aftermarket options now my opinion. And it has the too cool slotted nut. This also save money in the long run. By not buying the cdi bottom metal to change from the plastic bottom metal.
I would buy the 12 fv. It will have a varmint barrel that will sell easily, a steel trigger guard instead of plastic, plus the varmint accu trigger which will adjust down farther than the Trophy hunter. Plus what has been already stated. Good luck
Last edited by tj66; 12-21-2015 at 03:48 PM.
What does that mean?
You don't have only Hornady brass, although it works just fine, if you go with the Creedmoor. Norma and Nosler both make brass for the Creedmoor.
OP, both can use the same stocks, mags etc. Only difference is chambering.
For the purposes of the future build, I vote the 12fv. Top bolt release, a+, slotted barrel nut! a+. It is almost guaranteed you will not keep that package scope,on the 11, long.
And since this is your first factory barrel removal, please read "everything" on this site about it. There is plenty here, and all you need to do the job smoothly and properly.
Good Luck on Your build :-)
Real simple. If you reload, .260. If you don't, buy the 6.5 CM.
I say 6.5 creed regardless. Awesome factory ammo and only gets better with reloads. It's nice to have the factory option though.
Bought the cabelas 12fv tonight. Might just have to see how it shoots before trying to sell the barrel lol. Any input on what to look for or do as an initial inspection once home and unboxed is appreciated. I don't have a torque wrench set yet but I'll get one before I tear anything apart.
Make sure you have good quality Allen bits to torque the action screws with. I striped out the head of one action screw on my rifle at 25 in lbs. I will get it out after hunting season. Also get good quality scope mount and rings. Look for dings around the muzzle crown. I hope it was a rifle out of the back new in box and not a display one too. Is have seen display ones scratched and discolored for handling or bad handling.
Oh and congratulations on a new rifle.
Last edited by cm12setx; 12-22-2015 at 01:29 AM.
Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a Borka small bench kit. That will get you high quality bits and a torque wrench device. If you ever plan on getting the chassis get the kit with the AICS bit as the regular bits are too short for the rear action screw at least on my XLR.
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