Reply With Quoteshoot it at 100 yards.
Was at the range with my New Savage Axis .223. Bushnell AR223 scope that came with the rifle. Lake City .223, 55 gr. soft points. First few rounds out of this zip code at 25 yards.
I hope I can explain this so it can be understood. Had a bad couple days. Need confirmation or correction. Don't have time to go back to the range before hunting (May have to take shotgun.)
1. Zeroed in at 25 yards. Bullets were going through one hole (5 rounds). Moved out to 50 yards and fired three rounds at a target labeled 'Improved AR15 W/Optic 25M Zero Target' for a 50/200 Yard Zero.'
2. O.K. Aim at POA. POI should be 1.5" below POA for 50/200 yard zero.
3. Well. I fired three rounds and had to leave. Looked at target and find POI is 1.5" "above" POA instead of 1.5" below.
4. So. Looking at various charts it looks like I'm zeroed for 25 yards and 300 yards.
To compensate; POA/POI=
50 yds = -1.75"
100 yds = -4"
200 yds = -4.75"
Hope this is understandable. Am I even in the ball park? Thanks.
shoot it at 100 yards.
it is an accepted practice to be low at 25 yards. If your scope centerline is 2 inches above the centerline of the barrel then being somewhere between 1.5" -1.00" low is the correct shot placement while aiming at the bulls eye. Therefore you are right where you should be due to the way in witch you zeroed your scope. Going down 14 clicks would give you a 50 yard zero.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I'd love to try to help, but need more details. Which actual scope model is it, and with which reticle?
i think those "compensated elevation" scopes are at best ballpark bogus as there are SO many parameters of both cartridge and rifle to consider. i've always found that it requires testing and time with any specific rifle, specific cartridge load, and specific scope to best understand bullet drop and build a good long range poi table for varying distances and inclinations (not to mention the variables of shooter, rifle level, or even add in climate).
Shooting at a calibrated target at reduced range is a good way to get on paper, but in no way would I assume anything shot at that close of a range would mean the rifle is zeroed at a more distant range.
If your POI was at the POA at 25 yards, then the same setting should be hitting high at 50 yards. Whether 1.5" is normal would depend on your rig, including the actual MV and scope height over bore. In any case the bullet was still on its way up at 25. I don't know at what range it would cross the POA again (it could be 300-ish), but, as rfd12fv says, there are a number of factors we don't know.
I misread your numbers preciously and did not take the time to answer your real question. It was late. You are trying to have your POI 1.5 inches bellow your POA at 50 yds. Currently you are 1.5 inches above POA and 3 inches above your desired POI. If your scope is 1/4 MOA you will need to adjust the scope down 8 clicks per inch at 50 yds. 8(clicks/1/4 MOA) x 3" = 24 clicks. If the adjustments on your scope are close that should get you there. Also your scope center line must be higher than 1.5" above the center line of your bore for these numbers to be anything close to accurate. I had assumed those numbers where wrong and adjusted them according to my rifles scope height.
As Jo2015 said, you need to shoot it to really know.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Best advice is to go zero it at 200 if that is where you want it. Forget trying to figure it out and adjusting in your living room, go shoot it. If you can't get it properly sighted then take the shotgun hunting.
More shooting, less typing.
The RIBS (revised improved battle sight I think) concept is relying on several thing that may not be what you have.
Its designed around 62 grain green tip ammo in a 14 3/8" barrel with your sight axis AR height over your bore.
What it is designed to do is give the rifle maximum point blank range.
Now forget all that.
If you know your muzzle velocity (measure by chronograph), the ballistic coefficient of your bullet and your scope axis height over the bore you can enter that in a ballistic calculator which will generate a drop chart. If you play with it a little, you can change or figure out your zero and see how that changes your drop chart.
Many calculators will suggest a zero for maximum point blank range.
This is all stuff that should be done before you go to zero it, especially if you are only going to get one shot at it. That way you can react at the range rather than try to figure it out later on a computer.
If you do it right and have a scope that tracks properly, it can be very accurate.
I've used that to get within about two clicks going from 100 yards to 600 yards.
and check this out, fast and easy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiOpQY2ORo4Originally Posted by jo2015
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
Thanks for the replies. Good info. I'm not going to chance calculator/computer corrections. I'm taking the tried and true 12 gauge the next four days then go actually sight in the .223. I like 2" group of five at 200 yards. Anything up to that is going down when hit. And 200 yards is a long shot in the swamp/along the river.
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