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Thread: Matching the factory finish ?

  1. #1
    gunnn50
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    Matching the factory finish ?


    Sorry if this has been discussed, but I'm fairly sure a blued barrel won't match the factory finish. What finish needs to be done to match the receiver? Besides just stripping it too and reblueing the whole job? Second question I have stripped my bolt handle of its blueing as I reworked it to my liking what could be used to make it more rust resistant should I choose to leave it in the white? Besides oiling it ect. Any help would be appreciated Thanks guys.

  2. #2
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    I switched my barrel to an ER Shaw blued barrel and it matched the reciever. You can't even tell its a different barell minus the size.

    As far as the bolt handle I assume you mean bare steel. Besides keeping it well oilded, which I see coming off evrytine you use it. You could look into some sort of clear coat for it.

  3. #3
    Basic Member DrThunder88's Avatar
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    It matched an Axis?

  4. #4
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    Maybe the blued version?

  5. #5
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Bead blast the barrel, action and bolt handle and have them blued together if you want a perfect match and a stock matte finish. Or you could do the same and have them parkerized which is what I did on my .284 build.

    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
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urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  6. #6
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    As for rust resistance -- you know, I have an old S&W Model 10 that the previous owner stripped every speck of bluing off of 40+years ago. It has acquired a smooth, grayish "patina" through the decades, but not one bit of rust, and nothing has ever been done to it beyond a normal, occasional light oiling. This on a handgun that sees all sorts of glove box/tackle box/rough-duty usage. Bluing looks nice, but gives virtually zero rust protection.

  7. #7
    Basic Member DrThunder88's Avatar
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    I'd have thought a matte black spray finish over a bead blasted surface would be closest to the factory finish. I've tried flat black, but that's too dull, and semi-gloss seems a bit too lustrous, though I've not used it on blasted metal. I've got a cooler to spray paint today, so I'll dink around with some rattlecans to see what I come up with.

  8. #8
    Team Savage
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    If you want to leave it in the white, use KG's K-Phos to protect the metal. Or as mentioned above, remove the bluing, blast with 120-grit aluminum oxide and air brush with a primer coat of K-Phos and then GunKote or CeraKote bake on finish. Flat black is close to the matte finish. Satin black is closer to the luster black finish.

    There are no cold blue products that will give you the lasting results you are looking for. G96 Gun Blue has always worked the best for small areas.

  9. #9
    gunnn50
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    Thanks guys for all the im put I just want to make a gun that shoots good and looks just as good I've been tossing around the idea of making it in 280. Rem but its hard not to lean toward a 30-06 as I do not hand load

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