Reply With Quotecan you post pics of both the bolt grove and the detent ball on the PE?
I have a savage model 10fp le1, the piece at the rear of the bolt that does your primary extraction doesn't stay where it needs to be anymore. The little detent balls don't stay clicked into the groove on the bolt body. When the bolt is out of the rifle I can spin the piece by hand with little effort. Also it causes the odd hard extraction. I was thinking it was my hand loads causing the odd hard extract but there are no pressure signs and it's sporadic that it happens. What can I do to fix this problem? Do I need a new bolt body? Do I need to replace the primary extraction piece? Or can I replace the springs under the detent ball? Any help would be great. Thanks
Jesse
can you post pics of both the bolt grove and the detent ball on the PE?
Longrange. I will take pics right now.
Here are the pics.
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[IMG][/IMG]
The more I look at it, the pe has to allow the bolt to rotate, which leads me to believe it's a front to back space issue.
I think I agree. When the bolt is open the ball drops into the groove"detent". When the bolt is closed the flat base of the rear baffle (primary extraction piece) is locked into anti-rotation by the top of the tang. What you are describing must be the timing on the primary extraction ramps. To verify this you can take a feeler gauge to the range with you and place different thickness of gauge between the rear of the action and the front of the rear baffle. Start with .010 or less and work your way up until primary extraction works. Then you will have to modify the front of the baffle with small screws or set screws to fix the issue. There may be a tutorial on this site from one of the long time members. Don't remember if it was Boiler up or Bill PA or someone else.Originally Posted by jesse_l_b
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
the body and PE detent ball look fine to me...check the front of the bolt face and front section of the body for rub/ware marks also looks like a lot of oil grease and or gunk in your bolt so it may need to be cleaned.
your going to have to explain the screw part to me some time...I get the feeler gauge part...I did a quick search and found a few posts but none in detail.
IT was BillPA. Here is the text of him describing what to do. I am still looking for pictures. If you have a mill you could remove some material from the end of the bolt so the handle would move the ramp closer. But that is a job for a machinist /smith and I don't mean a Savage Smith.
"I only done this once ,wasn't my rifle and didn't think of taking pictures, but...
You'll need a drill, tap and two 6-32 or 8 -32 set screws an 1/8" long. (I used brass). Drill and tap each side of the rear baffle as close on horizontal center as you can get (careful of the detent ball on the right side) deep enough for the set screws to turn in flush. Start with a starter tap and then a bottom so you can go only as deep as necessary. Apply some 242 (blue) Loctite on the threads then run the screws in flush. Now setup the action, measure the PE and adjust the set screws out equally on both sides. You can do that by trail and error or by an actual measurement.
It accomplishes the same thing as shortening the bolt body by allowing the lug on the bolt handle to contact the PE cam earlier. It also eliminates the possibility of having to modify the notch in the action for the bolt handle if its moved too far forward and in the future if a new bolthead or bolt handle is installed it can be readjusted or the set screws removed if need be. " -----BillPA
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
follow this link and count down 8 pics to see the screws in place: http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...n-308-For-Sale
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
Paid members only dd&b. Here is the work minus the set screws.
Edit: Compliments of BillPA
Last edited by Robinhood; 10-04-2015 at 03:36 PM.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the help.
The majority of the primary extraction problem can be traced back to the bolt handle being out of spec.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Come to think of it I have never had a problem with one of yours Fred.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I was looking well at your Baffle Assembly and the ball bearing looks like it may have a flat spot wore into it. I caught the word anymore while describing your issue.. So it was working correctly at one time which tells me it isn't the bolt being out of time.. Your bolt body at the rear look like it may have a light scar spot in it also.. Clean up the back side of your bolt using some really fine silicone carbide paper 2000 grit or higher.. just lightly polish... check your ball bearing out with a magnifer for what looks like a flat spot.. you can purchase the baffle assembly for $12 at Numrich gun parts.
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I hope this helps you out. Happy hobby smithing !!!
Thanks for the free advertising, DevilDogandboy! I was going to refer him to that also. Here is a pic if you don't have access to the classifieds. I believe there is a write up on this forum somewhere.
http://i57.tinypic.com/dcc579.jpg
I have a friend who works in a machine shop, he is drilling and tapping it right now. If something goes awry, how would I go about getting a new baffle? I live in Canada which makes things a little more difficult probably. Thanks guys
OK question. The baffle started to Crack when we were drilling it. So we stopped drilling. Can I order a new baffle for it? Do I have to order from savage direct or is there somewhere else I should check. I'm live in Canada if that helps. I think it should still be operational, I'm going to find out this weekend as I need this rifle my moose hunt in a couple weeks. Thanks
Jesse
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