Reply With QuoteI was told by the guys at krieger not to go any more than 28" with a heavy varmint contour and fluting or I'm putting undo stresses on the action with small shank
I ordered a barrel from Mcgowen a couple of nights ago and opted for a 30 inch barrel with the savage bull contour. You guys think that will be okay with a savage small shank?
I noticed all the heavy 30 inch pre-fits I see for sale are threaded for the large shank receivers and that's giving me pause. It's probably not too late to modify the order.
The receiver is a Stevens 200 short action and the caliber is 260.
I was told by the guys at krieger not to go any more than 28" with a heavy varmint contour and fluting or I'm putting undo stresses on the action with small shank
Many here have ran 30" bulls on a small shank action without issue. I don't think 30" of barrel really gains anything and would change it to a 26".
Not sure what you are looking for here...?
If it is a small shank barrel, then it will be "OK" if you want the length and weight. If not, then you have your answer already.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
I have several "Bulls" on Small Shanks. Never had an issue. I have a 338 Edge on a small shank just to mention. I have put thousands of rounds through my 308. Never had a issue.
Dennis
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
If I am not mistaken, the outside diameter of a large shank action is the same size as the small shank action. This means that the large shank action has the potential to be weaker than the small shank. Only the chamber area of the large shank barrel is thicker and stronger than the small shank. There are guys here shooting 30" Varmit, and I think Bull's, and longer, that can tell us how it works.
If I am mistaken in this, I hope to be corrected :-) ... Thanks Jim
i can tell you from experience your most likely not going to like that 30" barrel on a 260...if you do go with the 30" barrel youll need to run slower powders than you normally do....if you want a long barrel id suggest you go 28" unless your having the 30" made with about .200 free bore.
You can always bed the stock for a few inches ahead of the barrel nut to help support a long barrel if you do run into accuracy issues. Should be just fine though.
There really is an excuse for everything!
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Good point on the powder. I powders I'm planning to use are in the H4350/RL-17 range. I have some IMR 4451 that I will test out too. Bullets will range from 120 to 140 grains. I have a couple hundred berger 130 hybrids and plan on working up a load with these first. I see a lot of guys over on accurateshooter that are using 30" barrels with these powders on medium 6.5s (260, 6.5CM, 6.4x47). Can you go into a little more detail with your experiences?Originally Posted by LongRange
Thanks
I lost 9 pcs of new lapua brass with 42g of H4350 and 5 pcs with 42g of RL-17...both powders are to fast for a 30" barrel with 140 142g bullets...not sure about the 130s but i think they may be a little to heavy for those powders as well....youll be ok with the 120 123g bullets but theres better powder choices for them as well in a 30" barrel
If your going to shoot 140s id suggest you stay around the RL-19 burn rate or slower but the problem your going to run into is the free bore in your barrel is most likely going to be short if you order a pre fit so your case capacity is going to limit you.
The 30" barrel i had had some issues so i think i only shot 5-600 rounds through it but all the slower powders shot best,created more velocity with less signs of pressure. Ive shot out a few 28" barrels and they all shot great with 4350 and RL-17 as well as the slower powders...i think 26" is the best all round length for a 6.5 but if you really want a 30 id suggest you chamber it with .200 free bore for 140s.
Look a little harder. There are more small shanks with Bull barrels vs. Large shanks out there.I noticed all the heavy 30 inch pre-fits I see for sale are threaded for the large shank receivers and that's giving me pause
A 28" barrel will do the job for you. I have started shooting 26" barrels @ 600 yards and their working fine. 308's , my 6mm's & 6.5's I usually go 28".
Dennis
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
I ran a 32" heavier than bull barrel on my 338 Edge. Small shank.
No problems whatsoever.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
Neck down 308 Palma brass for that 260 and you won't have to worry about loosing primer pockets. Can probably push a 140 at 2950 with the palma brass and no pressure issues
I guess i dont understand why a 30" barrel is needed for a 260 regardless what bullet its throated for.
Anything longer than whats needed to burn the powder is wasted anyway.
Good to hear some people have experience with these longer/heavier barrels on small shank barrels.
As to the reason for the 30 inch barrel, it's to eke out a little more velocity. I have a 26 inch barrel on that rifle now, I'm getting around 2850fps with 140gr bullets. A little faster with the 130s. I'd like to get 100 fps more. Why? To cut the wind drift. Yes, I know we are only talking about 5 inches at 1000 yards with a 10mph crosswind.
I'll report back after I've shot it over my chrony.
Yep, been thinking about that. I may buy 20 cases or so and experiment.Neck down 308 Palma brass for that 260 and you won't have to worry about loosing primer pockets. Can probably push a 140 at 2950 with the palma brass and no pressure issues
[QUOTE=jimbo88mm;335399]Good to hear some people have experience with these longer/heavier barrels on small shank barrels.
As to the reason for the 30 inch barrel, it's to eke out a little more velocity. I have a 26 inch barrel on that rifle now, I'm getting around 2850fps with 140gr bullets. A little faster with the 130s. I'd like to get 100 fps more. Why? To cut the wind drift. Yes, I know we are only talking about 5 inches at 1000 yards with a 10mph crosswind.
Well after you find out, you will be able to tell someone else who no doubt wont listen either.
Do wet paint signs work? lol
[QUOTE=yobuck;335402]Why are F-Class/FTR shooters using 28-32 inch barrels if 26 is all that's needed?
[QUOTE=jimbo88mm;335404]I cant answer that, and chances are they cant either.
But i do know that just because some people do things a certain way dosent necessarily mean its the best way to do it.
It would be my (opinion) that a 26" barrel would be long enough for any suitable powder one might use in a 260 for max velocity.
But then we all know about opinions. Certainly there are enough good shooters here who have good opinions on 260s.
I dont own a 260 but have owned a 6.5 wsm. I also have 2 large capacity 7mms chambered with the same reamer.
One has a 29.5" barrel, the other a 27" barrel both on rem actions. The same load has about the same velocity in both guns. Thats 80 gr of 7828 which is a pretty slow powder.
Yet 27 inches of barrel burns it as well as the longer one according to the velocity. 100 FPS would be alot for you to expect for an increase in velocity.
And a velocity gain is meaningless anyway if the accuracy drops off in order to achieve it.
Also in my 243win a 26" and a 27" barrel get the exact same results with the same load. What you do get with a long tube like that though is more barrel whip!
I think 30" might be a little long for a 260. I have a 30" on a 264 WM and a 27" 6.5 WSM, both work well. I'm working toward a 28" 6.5-284 and expect good things.
With 30" and a 260, I would lean toward 4831, RL-22 and other "magnum" powders. I use AA8700 in a 6.5 Bower (307 Win necked down). Accuracy is there, but efficiency is not.
No issues with a long tube on a small shank.
The barrel I ordered had a 14 day build time so I did reach out to them to see if I could change the order from 30 to 28 inches but it was too late, they shipped it out today :)
I'm glad it sounds like there wont be any issues with the barrel mated to the action. The real issue now is if I can get it to shoot.
Sometimes a guy has to sit on the wet paint to learn for himself
To the OP yes the SA will handle a 30 bull. I have a model 10 31 1/4" .900 at muzzle. 1 and 9.5 twist 308 win. started at 32" cut it to try something different. Go with the 30" you can always cut it to 28" or whatever works. Once cut you can't add.
Well one reason might be more speed, kind of like the guys shooting the 6.5 SAUM with H1000.
Wanted to give a quick update.
No problems physically with the 30inch barrel. The whole setup is very solid.
In regards to powder burn rate issues with 140gr pills and brass life I am happy to report that I am not seeing any problems. Using Lapua brass that's already had 13 loads on it, I've gotten 2 more loads in and the brass is still good.
I found a node very quickly using IMR 4451 with Hornady 140gr bthps. Loads of 41.3 to 41.8 yield similar velocities and shot placement. I've settled on 41.5 with an average muzzle velocity of 2810 fps and a standard deviation of 6 fps. While not screaming fast I'm 100fps faster than the book max for 140s. Though the groups opened up with 42grs, I can probably go a little bit higher to find the next node but see no need since this load groups well:
Next up, to work up a load using the berger hybrid 130s. The goal will be 3000 fps, but I'd be happy with mid 2900s if that's where the best groups live.
True Jim,
They drill the action out to accommodate the Large Shank Barrel. I don't see the advantage. Unless their saying the Large Shank Barrel is stronger vs. the Small Shank's. The action looses strength with Large Shank options.
JMO, Dennis
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
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