Reply With Quoteif you send hornady the cases they will thread them for you...or you buy a drill bit and a tap and do it yourself.
This is for anyone that uses the L&L OAL gauges to setup their rifle or pistol first loads, i have all the specal cases for what i shoot BUT after setting up my loads i want to go further and use a fired case from that chamber too see if there will be any difference with the fired case.
Hornady has a odd thread size 5/16-36 very hard to find and have been thinking that there ? may be a Metric thread size to match ??? anythoughts anyone.
if you send hornady the cases they will thread them for you...or you buy a drill bit and a tap and do it yourself.
Don't pay attention to the picture
http://www.amazon.com/16-HSS-Right-H.../dp/B00GU7OV5C
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Just so happens my wife has an Amazon account with free shipping
When your done let us know how you held the case while you tapped it. It took me about 4 cases to get it right. I want to see what you come up with. Also when drilling brass you want to modify the drill bit. A standard drill has a positive rake on the leading edge. This helps pull the bit into the steel. This will not work for brass. You will need to grind or hone it to where the angle is neutral so that it peels the chips up but does not pull into the material. In the shop we have grinding wheels that we keep the corners square for you a small hone to just break the edge may do the trick. There is probably a YouTube video demonstrating this.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
What is the tap drill size or diameter?
19/64" or letter I.Originally Posted by strut64
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
With all due respect bill I would only use the "I" as a pilot. Reduce the cutting edge so it does not pull the drill into the brass. Look up drilling brass or soft materials. You will be glad. Take it slow and keep it cool and lubricated.
Check me on this but I think it is the letter drill size "L". I went larger to make it tap easier. I can't remember if I ended up at letter "M" or 19/32.
http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Years ago before all the must have tools we now have were available, people somehow found the proper seating depth without them.
An empty unprimed (fired) case, preferably with a split neck is used. Partially seat the bullet and finish seating it by chambering it with the bolt.
Blacken the bullet with a match or sharpie and make die adjustments seating it deeper till the rifeling no longer makes marks. At that point i usually
move the bullet back out 5 thou. which i feel is just about touching. Make final seating depth die adjustment from there and save the finished round for future die settings.
How much more convienient, reasonable, and accurate can it get?
Get the tap and tap your fire formed brass. I tapped 3 different brands of brass that I use for my bolt gun since each manufacturer gives me a different reading using the same bullet.
Care to share? I've ruined a few with no success...
Use 2 pieces of wood and clamp them on a vice. Find a drill bit slightly smaller than the case and drill a hole between the clamped wood.
Take the pieces of wood apart, stick the case between and clamp.
I drilled mine on a lathe, while it was chucked up I tapped it.
Have you guys ever seen a Sinclair bullet seating depth tool. I have been using one for about a year and love it. No special cases to buy or make. Basically a 1/4 rod with 2 lock collars. Put a bullet in the chamber, set 1st collar. Remove bullet. Put case or headspace gauge in chamber and set second collar. Measure tool and add bullet length to get oal to lands.
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