Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Savage headspacing/barrel swap question

  1. #1
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    312

    Savage headspacing/barrel swap question


    All,
    I was curious why it is recommended you take the ejector and extractor off the bolt while doing the head spacing portion of a barrel swap with your go/no-go gauges. One would think they could stay put since the ejector pin would simply push in and the extractor would simply go around the bottom of the gauge. Please enlighten me. Thank you!

  2. #2
    daniel87
    Guest
    Ejector only

  3. #3
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    312
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel87 View Post
    Ejector only
    thank you, but again...what is the purpose to remove this if when you go to headspace it will be pushed in flush anyways?

  4. #4
    Basic Member short round's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Georgetown, ohio
    Age
    77
    Posts
    562
    If not removing extractor, make sure extractor is going over rim of gauge, if extractor does not go over gauge head space will be excessive. Simple check is to pull bolt to rear, if extractor comes with it, things are good.

  5. #5
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Age
    69
    Posts
    109
    My understanding is that this is insurance that the base of the gauge will be flush with the bolt face.

  6. #6
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbia Basin, WA
    Posts
    2,408
    there is no physical reason. I've never stripped the heads on any of mine, no issues. One of them is now a pressure tester.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  7. #7
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Kennedy Meadows,CA.
    Age
    73
    Posts
    4,788
    This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ same here

  8. #8
    Team Savage
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    125 miles North of San Francisco
    Age
    81
    Posts
    1,475
    One of the things I've seen mentioned about the ejector is that it pushes the case "sideways" in the chamber?? If it actually does, you've got big problems and are in need of a new barrel anyway.
    Never have stripped a bolt head to set headspace. (only swapped about a dozen or so) Drop the case in the chamber and close the bolt. The ejector rod is pushed back flush anyway. Open it and if the case is attatched to the bolt head, you're good to go. Same with firing pins. The bolt is cocked and the pin is below flush. Why remove it??
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

  9. #9
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,248
    I have never stripped the bolt. No problems.

  10. #10
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    south arkansas
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,292
    Never stripped the bolthead and never had a problem. Just never got in a hurry.
    "And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)

  11. #11
    daniel87
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel87 View Post
    Ejector only
    Just a precaution but ymmv

  12. #12
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    248
    The gunsmith I use says he removes both so that he gets a better feel for setting the headspace and whether the no go is binding.

  13. #13
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,362
    You don't set the headspace by "feel" on a Savage, maybe on a Remington.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  14. #14
    Basic Member DrThunder88's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Metro Detroit
    Posts
    1,383
    I have only installed a handfull of barrels, but the difference between GO and NO-GO is not nuanced. The bolt either closed or it didn't.

  15. #15
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    South Texas
    Age
    66
    Posts
    7,813
    With regards to "feel. If you get the barrel screwed in, and you have installed the go gauge, screw the barrel in until it stops. I have never had on not slip past the extractor when the barrel is screwed in to where it stops. From there it is loosen a few thousands and match mark the barrel and action with a pencil or sharpie. Snug and test, tighten watching your marks. Test with no go before you do the final wrench. So easy a Savage Smith can do it.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  16. #16
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warner Robins, Ga
    Age
    77
    Posts
    5,024
    Quote Originally Posted by darkker View Post
    there is no physical reason. I've never stripped the heads on any of mine, no issues. One of them is now a pressure tester.
    +2!

Similar Threads

  1. barrel swap question
    By savatage in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-12-2017, 02:58 PM
  2. .270 win Barrel swap question
    By Klint96xj in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 04-04-2014, 12:01 AM
  3. Barrel Swap Question
    By Kansan in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-26-2014, 02:17 PM
  4. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-11-2013, 12:08 PM
  5. First Barrel Swap Question..
    By Turbo_760 in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-17-2013, 12:21 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •