I had a scope base screw break off at the head with the screw body now stuck in the threads of the action. Is there a way to fix this and does it require a gunsmith?
Remove the base, there may be enough screw sticking out of the receiver to grab onto with pliers or vise grips, if your lucky & the screw is not had thread locker applied, it will come out easy. If thread locker of some sort has been used apply heat to soften it. Screw thread size is 6X48 get one at hardware store, may have to be shortened to work.
I just removed base and it's broke off flush with the action. There is no way to grip the remaining screw. Any other options?
Yes, if you are experienced with precision work and drilling with small drills.Originally Posted by dpollard
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Not even close!Just dropped gun off at gunsmith. Not going to mess with it and risk further damage.
This wouldn't be the screw directly above the barrel threads would it?
"An armed society is a polite society"
"...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?
Now you're talkin.Not even close!
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
^^^^^^That is awesome.
You could have cut a slot with a dremel and the thin cutting wheels. If it was truly flush. You would have done very very minimal cosmetic damage to the receiver and it could be filled with bedding compound. It would be covered by the base any ways. Then heat the screw with a fine, but hot flame from something like a mini torch. Let it cool down just slightly and it should screw right out. Heat also breaks up rust to an extent. Heat is a lovely thing!
Im curious as to how gun smiths do it tho. Maybe they do the same thing and just weld any damage so that you can't see it. It's pretty hard to drill a hardened 6-48 screw unless they have a carbide end mill that small and a very precise mill...
Carbide bit and a mill would make short work of this. Really though, I'm surprised you couldn't get it out if it wasn't loctited in.
I did the same thing once. Decided to try the "bubba gunsmith" approach and drill it out myself with a very small bit and hand drill. Ended up scratching the receiver and messing up the 6-48 hole threads. I had to buy 8-40 drill bit and taps to fix the mess. I suspect a gunsmith with the right tools will drill it out and replace with 8-40 base mount screws. My next purchase was a good torque driver set to make sure I don't ever make the same mistake again. Plus you won't over-tighten those ring or stock screws. Thus avoid putting ring marks on your scope tubes or cracking chunks out of your laminated stock. You might say, I've learned all this the hard way.
Last edited by jpdown; 08-29-2015 at 10:22 AM.
Removed double post.
Last edited by jpdown; 08-29-2015 at 10:37 AM.
I must be lucky,did it once with a drill and ez out. came right out.
"An armed society is a polite society"
"...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?
I'm impressed. What manufacturer easy out did you use?
I guess 5/64ths end mills are pretty common as well.
Last edited by Robinhood; 08-29-2015 at 01:58 PM.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
IMHO, no tool box is complete without a set of left hand twist drills bits. Broken screws and bolts can many times be removed quite easily as the torque implied by the drill biting into the screw is exactly the direction needed to back it out. I have saved many an expensive aircraft part using left hand drills. Easy outs tend to expand the hole as they apply torque and bite into the screw, frequently locking them in place even more, or ruining the threaded hole by oversizing. The left hand drill is able to back them out without further abuse to the part.
They are readily available. A quick search turned up this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-30520-Co.../dp/B0002NYBJG
They are available in number sizes too.
I purchased a set of micro easy outs, from Brownells If I remember right. That's how this gunsmith fixes it. Usually requires drilling tapping 8-40 threads after broken screw is removed.
You could've tried catching an edge of the screw with a pointed punch and tap it around with a hammer.
Texas10 hit the nail on the proverbial broken bolt head. A left hand drill is by far the easiest and most effective method of removing a broken bolt.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Ditto on the left handed drill bits.
Yep. Left twist drill bit is the "bomb".
never had a set but now i'm thinking i need one for that impending mishap!
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
It cost me $30 to have this fixed to perfection by a gunsmith. I'm ok paying for that repair. Just don't have time right now in life to mess with it. Newborn babies have a way of changing your priorities in life :)
It was indeed the action screw just above the barrel thread, for the poster that asked. Is this common? Gunsmith said he was surprised at how hard and brittle the base screw was.
Last edited by dpollard; 08-31-2015 at 11:33 PM.
You did well letting a pro handle it. Sounds like $30 is quite reasonable.
As much as I like to tinker and fix everything I can, I realize exceeding my limitations often just opens a bigger can of worms and can turn a small project into a football bat.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
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