Savage axis

[Benaxis]

Hi, I have a savage axis kinda custom chambered in 30.06 it has boyds stock, bipod, leupold vx3, fully bedded rifle and bedded scope mount. Now my problem is that no matter how much I pre load the bipod I am not able to track the hit downrange. Now saying that it obviously is a big kicker, and alot of muzzle rise! I have a knock off bipod (Blackhawk), and was wondering if it could be the bipod. But no matter how much I try for that barrel not to rise it will still rise even on bags! So if anyone could help me I'd much appreciate it! I'm also up for the challenge of threading the barrel if I'm able to, Being that the barrel is not a bull barrel style barrel. But any feedback is very appreciated!

Thanks, Ben

[Rosco]

I have a .308 Axis and 6.5 Creedmore in Savage 10 neither of which have a break/can, and it is difficult for me to follow shots downrange. Even shooting off a nice bag, or a loaded bipod and practicing good recoil management, 90% of the time the kick is just enough to throw me off where I lose sight picture and have to readjust. I would imagine with a 30.06( I don't personally own one) you are going to have a similar problem.

I think the best solution would be to add a nice muzzle break which should help.

[Benaxis]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking because I can't get a good target picture no matter what I do! I mean it's bad to the point where I shoot, and the gun just is aiming somewhere in the woods after my shot. I mean it's like I'm shooting a .50cal how much muzzle rise I got! But anyway if anyone on here can tell me what I need to thread it or how much it would cost me to take to a gunsmith that'd be great!

[Rosco]

Do you have the factory sporter barrel? Or something else

[rfd12fv]

muzzle brake time! a witt machine brake really helped tame down my axis hb .308win. of course, it "annoise" the heck out of folks situated to the left/right of the barrel.

[Benaxis]

Sorry I didn't get back quickly have been so busy lately but ugh yes I have a sporter barrel sadly I'm thinking of getting rid of the gun and start new idk yet what I wanna do cause let's be honest the axis isn't the prettiest girl out their haha but with my hand loads I can shoot sub moa sometimes even better!

[rfd12fv]

lighter "sporter" barrels just heat up faster and i prefer a heavier barrel. but yer issue with kick up, with any barrel, gets tamed pretty quick with a good brake. you already have a sub moa machine, why throw it away when adding in another c note will take care of business for ya?

[Rosco]

If you don't like the Whit Machine, Kahntrol also makes clamp on brakes for Axis.

Just to parrot what was said above if you have a sub-moa shooter then get yourself and nice Boyds stock for a little over a hundred and go from their.

[Metz_K]

I am only shooting .308 but with the factory sporter barrel and plastic stock I could not track shots and the recoil actually left my shoulder sore.
A Boyds Pro varmit and a ER Shaw heavy varmit barrel now lets me watch the impact. It just sounds like your barrel is not heavy/stiff enough to keep it from whipping and jumping so your best bet will be a muzzle brake. You could try switching to a heavier barrel but you may not be able to open the barrel channel enough depending on your stock

[upSLIDEdown]

Lighter barrels heat up faster, but they cool faster as well. Keep that in mind. I started shooting long range with a 308 Axis and hurt a LOT of feelings with that gun in a bedded Boyds stock. Nothing else special about it. They're very capable guns. So much so that I build my next rifle on an Axis action. 6.5 Creedmoor. Shoots sub 1/4 moa if I do my part.

[rfd12fv]

my personal mandatory new plastic stocked rifle evaluation and mods ...

unless a light rifle is a requirement (think: long hunting treks in the mountains) there are four mandatory mods i make to tupperware stocked rifles - [1] rockite the stock which adds a good 2# (or more) to the mass weight and greatly stiffens the fore stock (about $8), [2] open up the fore stock barrel channel for added free-float (sweaty sanding labor at best), [3] add a lace-on kick killer akton butt pad to greatly tame the recoil (about $35 and absolutely mandatory for almost all my rifles, adds no appreciable weight), and [4] clip on a bipod for portable prone or bench stability ($25 to $100, and adds in some weight).

further, if the trigger pull is harsh, either booger the spring or get a new one like a timney or basics (typically $0 to $150). if need be, a witt machine brake tames the muzzle jump and push back ($100). optionally, perhaps a new and heavier stock (boyds' for $100).

lastly, add proper base, rings and glass (maybe a gajillion dollars - or more! - don't skimp on glass!), and a hard case (plano cheapo for $25).

there now, wasn't that easy? :)